my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

I am having some trouble with my car. I need some assistance. The car is a head/cam/bolt on 2001 Z28 with 422hp to the ground. The car had a brand new RAM Powergrip clutch installed less than a month ago. I had the flywheel resurfaced, added a shim, and put the spacer behind the slave cylinder. A few weeks later I did a high rpm run onto the highway and started having hang shifts and could put the car into reverse unless I turned it off. So I let it cool down overnight and took it to a tranny shop the next day. On the way to the tranny shop everything was fine, but gradually became worse again. Tranny shop said check hydrolics. I pulled the transmission at a shop and inspected everything. The slave still had all its pressure and the throw out bearing looked worn, so I replaced it with a new one. I found some abnormal wear on the friction plate and took it to RAM. They repaired the plate and everything was fine for 1500 miles.

Well yesterday I did a high rpm run on the highway and it started acting up again except kind of in reverse. Now at low rpm and slow speeds it hangs/resistance shifting and placing in reverse. When driving on the highway at higher speeds it seems to shift ok.

I am at a loss. It has a new clutch, new slave, and fresh fluid and the system has been bled repeatedly. Everything was fine both times until I did the high rpm launches. Where do I need to look for the problem. The only thing that hasn't been replaced is the Master cyclinder. If it continues I may have to just buy the LS7 clutch and say to hell with it. Kinda don't want to do that when I just dumped $600 into this clutch and slave.

gettinthere

iTrader: (3)

Did you do the drill mod?

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

No I haven't done the drill mod.

stevensLS1

iTrader: (2)

i was told the drill mod was worthless

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Way wrong, it makes a difference. Drill the resrictor out of the line & see for yourself.

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

All of my problems arrive after high rpm runs only. Does the drill mod seem like a fix? If that is the case I might as well replace my master while I am at it since has to be pulled out to do the mod.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Insulate the line also w/some hose heat tape etc to keep heat from soaking into the fluid also it helps. But at high RPM you need fast engage/release the drill mod helps this out specifically. I also sugget a stock style adjustable master, so you can tailor the pedal free play out if you want the perfect feel for hard driving, it also helps alot IMO.

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

What do you mean by stock style adjustable master? Brand names?

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Any one offered by the sponsors that does not say McLeod/CNC master.
So anything else is a stocker made adjustable. The Ram & Cartek master's is the only 'brand' name that comes to mind. But I think alot more sponsors offer them.

1BDWS6

iTrader: (8)

I am firmly against the shim behind the slave cylinder. My car had 2000 EASY miles on a RAM HD, I put it on the dyno and couldn't do a full pull because the clutch was slipping, pulled the tranny out, put in a practically brand new Spec Stage 3+, put it back on the dyno same scenario. Pulled the tranny AGAIN, took the spacer out from behind the slave, and no more clutch problems... I think if the drill mod doesn't fix your problem, pull the spacer out, it could be causing so much heat (which would also explain your wore out throwout bearing and damaged friction disc) the slave isn't releasing. You might go ahead and put a new slave in also just incase it has hurt it while you have it out...

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

I dont understand the thought behind the shim either, never used them.
An adjustable has always worked great for me. I like having the tunability there, not a buried hope it's right shim.

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

When I had my first RAM Clutch in it didn't come with a slave and I had no problems. WHen my second one was installed after my accident it was improperly done, but had the spacer. My third came with a spacer and I called RAM about it. They told me it was just a precaution. So I left it out initially and the pedal grabbed as soon as I lifted my pedal off the floor. When I put the spacer in it grabbed out a little more and felt good and tight. When I did the repairs last week it grabs high on the pedal, but doesn't feel like it is slipping at all. I may just order the RAM adjustable master and drill mod that thing. That is the only thing I can think of at this point. I have a new clutch, new slave, proper bleeding verified by two other mechanics and no fluid burn. The fluid is clean and has no burn smell at all.