Turbo T/A

iTrader: (7)

OK, I've got a 02 WS6, installed a Centerforce 12" DF Clutch & pressure plate w/ a centerforce billet flywheel and centerforce throw out bearing. I'm running stock master and slave cylinders. Clutch install went smoothly and I bled the system after the new GM slave install. NOW THE PROBLEM!!!!! The clutch won't disengage and allow me to shift into gear. I pulled the tranny back out and checked everything (disc is in the correct way and everything is aligned properly), rebeld the system and tried again. FAILED!!!!! Rebled the system for 4 F%^&ing hours and the pedal pressure seems ok. But the clutch still won't disengage!!!! The Centerforce specs don't call for the use of slave shims at all, so I don't think that's the problem. The hydraulics worked fine before so it should work fine now. This is my daily driver so I need help quick. Does anyone know what's causing the problem????? Please help. Thanks!!!!

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Can you start the car in gear and not have it move?

Turbo T/A

iTrader: (7)

I'l try it, but i think it will move when i start it. I'll see what happens. Thanks

Turbo T/A

iTrader: (7)

UPDATE
Nope when I start the car in gear it slowly wants to move forward. I bought a mighty vac and bled it with that. I bled it for an hour and a half and I was still getting some bubbles. I'm not sure if it's coming from the system or if the pump is letting a little air in. If it's coming from the system then I either have ALOT of air in the system or there is a small air leak somewhere that's letting air into the system but it's not big anough to allow fluid to leak out so that I can actually see it. I drove the car for a little while this afternoon. It shifts fine when I'm driving the car around, BUT when I stop at a stop sign and put it in gear (which is really hardto do, I really have to muscle it to go into gear) the clutch starts whining kinda like a noisy gear drive and I have to hold on the brake because the car wants to move forward. Once I take off and let off of the clutch everything works like normal and the whining goes away. The whining starts in every gear when the car is not moving and it's in gear with the clutch pushed to the floor. It seems that the slave cylinder is still not disengaging the pressure plate completely. It's weird that it shifts normal at all varying rpm's once the car is moving. I'm going to drive the car for a week and see if anything gets any better. Does anyone have any idea what's wrong and what I can do to fix it?????
I called Centerforce today and they said that a shim and an adjustable master cylinder are not needed for the 12" DF clutch setup. So the only thing I can think it could be is the slave cylinder might be bad since I accidently ran it dry during the install. I hope some of you clutch god's can help me out.
Later... it's beer 30!!!

fotoboy

iTrader: (1)

......this may sound stupid but make sur your clutch is not in backwards, had on installed backwards on my car, still not sure how he did it but it was done. I know on the c5 there is a specific wayto bleed a clutch and must be done correctly of the car will not shift, I would also try and visualy inspect the distance between the slave and the pressure plate. I had to use a .250 shim and a adj. master and was told I didnt need a adj master and needed 2 .250 shims when I only needed one. Also do the drill mod in the slave line and your shifting speed will improve.

Good luck

CW00BlackTA

iTrader: (31)

I've had new clutches act that way the first time out. Have you tried putting a few miles on it to take off the high spots? You might try that first.

Turbo T/A

iTrader: (7)

I'll give it a week or so and see what it feels like. If not, I think I might change the slave out for a Ram slave cylinder and maybe even do a adj master cylinder while I'm at it. I don't know I'm just pretty pissed off with the whole deal so far. I'll just try and drive it for a week or so and see if it gets better and then I'll decide what to do. Thanks guys!!!
Anybody else have any ideas??
Anybody else running the new Centerforce 12" DF clutch have any problems like this????

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Just put a shim in there and be done with it. I would not drive it too far with it dragging like that.

Turbo T/A

iTrader: (7)

Ya you're probably right. I don't want to hot spot the clutch and flywheel by driving it with it dragging like that. I'll just order a ram cylinder. Don't those come with shims or do I have to buy them seperate????

steve-d

iTrader: (7)

If you have a leak, it'll show by pumping out some hydraulic fluid. If you continue to get bubbles, it's because there is air in the system. Keep doing the bleed process until there is none. If the clutch continues to drag, you need a shim or other fix to allow the PP to disengage it fully.

Steve

Provider of remote bleeders to make everyone's life easier!!

theantirotor

iTrader: (4)

if you use the Mighty vac then you have to realize that it will bubble a little bit all the time, even when there are actually no bubbles in the system. the reason for this is you are drawing a pretty high vacuum through the mighty vac and it will pull air/fluid from wherever it can. this includes the air that will leak around the bleeder (this is key) this does not mean there is actually air in the system.


it is very different when you are pulling the fluid through the system using a vacuum than it is when you are pushing the fluid through the system with pressure.

that being said, i love my mighty vac!

roadtrip120

iTrader: (29)

I have almost the same problem but not as bad, it will go into gear but it doesn't like it. The car wants to move forward.

Where would you add the shim?? Behind the flywheel, or the slave cylinder??(I already have the one spec sent behind the slave)

Need help ASAP

Turbo T/A

iTrader: (7)

I pretty sure the shims go in between the slave and the tranny. Anybody let me know if I'm wrong.

Well I sucked it it up and bought a new slave cylinder and also a Mcleod adjustable master cylinder. I'm going to do the master first, becuase I don't want to pull the damn tranny out AGAIN. I've already pulled it 3 times. I'll be doing the master cylinder install tomorrow so I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Also, if that doesn't work what is the part number for the slave shims? Because the slave didn't come with any.

Later

Turbo T/A

iTrader: (7)

THANK GOD I FINALLY HAVE GOOD NEWS... and a little bad news. I finished installing the Mcleod adj. master and that fixed the dragging problem with the clutch not disengaging fully. But now the clutch slips and chatters a little bit when I leave from a stop. When I'm driving it shifts normal. Could this be due to the master cyl. being adjusted too high maybe??? I'll try to mess with the adjustment of the master and see if helps. If anybody has any ideas please let me know. Thanks everyone for all the help so far. I really appreciate it!!
Thanks again.

Later

Drink up, It's Memorial day!!

Johngypsy

Little late then never:

Ok guys, I've seems tons and tons of asking questions why won't any transmission go into gear after a new clutch has been installed?

This also happened to me to: I have a 1990 Camaro Iroc z with a 5.7 liter T-5 clutch,

Here are the issues:

1) have the car rolled back from your drive way, start it in 1 or 2nd gear and see what happens. Don't leave the car right where u left off, because it may need a little help to fall into place, solved my issue after 2 weeks of not going into gear!

2) if u take off your clutch master cylinder? ( air ) will most luckily get in, no big deal, just pump it out
1) have your buddy pump the clutch peddle 10 times and hold. Keep a open ear to the guy who is priming the clutch,
2) after that, prime it again, 2nd set times 10 and hold while he bleeds!
3) and finally pump it hard and all the way to the floor, x 10 and hold straight down, and bleed, release and start up to check, make sure that you also roll the car or start it in gear. ( clutch holded down )

3) change out the cylinder clutch, most luckily it's not the issue? But it's new and your mind will be at ease, make sure that the pin is in properly,

4) if u are getting some clutch? U may wanna go back in and do a shim to .40 if you have done the fly wheel by resurfacing it, a new fly wheel like .10 this will also insure that your mind is also at ease,

5) keep your clutch tool, ( alignment ) take down the Trans, not all the way, but only to fit in the tool to Aline it again, if needed....

We all wanna get the best for our cars and go with a bigger and nicer clutch set that will hold more then we got, but some time company's will make it, and over make it that it will give you issues, just because they claim better and cheaper don't always means they are the best, go with a company who soully deals only in transmissions like puck, or even a fm factory but better, gm makes a clutch set that's way better then some company's out there, and they do have them in stock, that have zr1 corvette clutch that will fit Camaros that will hold better then any company's out there, as the zr1 and the z06 clutches hold up to 550-700 H.P, and it's the same price or cheaper then any hi dollar clutch sets, do your research and just seen for yourself!

Hope this helped guys!
John gypsy kid.....

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Did you ever get your clutch working right. I have a new one acting the same way. Just looking for a little knowledge to work with. I've never had one mess up like this. Where can you get shims if I need them?

Redcamaroman

What ended up happening with this?? I'm having the same issue