bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

I finally got my textralia clutch and mcleod bellhousing installed. Just took it for a drive to put the first heat cycle on the clutch. I got the textralia with the billet steel flywheel.

My install notes for the bellhousing:
-Test fit it to your trans and make sure the bolt holes line up before installing it.

-Grinding down the rear engine cover and oil pan makes a hell of a mess. There was aluminum dust all over everything. I also had to grind my starter a touch to get it on too.

-I had to do a little grinding on the bellhousing just above the quick connect fitting for the clutch. There was not quite enough room. The area that needed grinding is just above the quick connect in the pic below.



-This is a step that I missed. If you want to save yourself much trouble cut some of the starter provision off the drivers side of the bellhousing. Only after installing it did I realize that my headers would never come out with it like that. It took almost 2 hours and 4 sawzall blades to cut that piece off while on the car . Do this step before installing it. This picture is intermediate step. I ended up cutting a little more off it because I switched from jet hot headers to QTP.



-After putting the bellhousing in and torquing everything down, when I went to put the trans in the dowel pins in the trans would not line up with their corresponding holes in the bellhousing. I ended up looseing all the bellhousing to block bolts to allow a little wiggle room. It was a major PITA to get those suckers tightened back up with the trans in the way. Not sure how to avoid that issue, but it seems like I am the only one that had that problem.


For the clutch:
-Take the paint off the pressure plate where the bolts go. I am hoping this will prevent any PP bolt loosening like some have experienced.

-Get a slide hammer to pull out the old pilot bearing. That sucker was in there good.

-I got a remote bleeding line for my clutch. It is about 24" long and works very good. No more messy clutch bleeding. Definitely recommended.



Now upon driving I noticed a few things:

-clutch engagement is much lower to the floor than factory. Seems to me the clutch engages with the pedal only 1 to 1 1/2" off the floor. I am hoping it will raise up as it breaks in.

-There is what I would describe as mild chatter upon take off. I have read this will go away after break in.

-This thing definitely has more holding power than a factory clutch. It does not want to slip much at all.

RPO_Z06

iTrader: (11)

Good write up..

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Thanks guys. The clutch came from Byunspeed, good guys to deal with.

PS, has the break in procedure changed at all? When I asked Pete at Tex about it he said give it 3 easy heat cycles and it should be good to go. But, that was last fall (shows how slow I am at getting mods done ).

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

What would you recommend then? 200 mile break in with easy driving?

Element

iTrader: (5)

I had a rather low engagement point after my Textralia install, but after about 500 miles, it was back to about where the stock engagement point was - probably 2/3s of the way off the floor.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Good to know. I hope mine will gradually rise too.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully you didn't use the bolts that came with the bellhousing for the bellhousing to block... or at least checked them... the ones that came with my bellhousing were SAE... the block is metric. Nothing a couple helicoils couldn't fix.

Also, by grinding and cutting the bellhousing, you lose the SFI certification. May not be a big deal, but in some cases, it might. I didn't grind / cut my bellhousing at all. I did have to grind the starter and the oilpan, of course. I realize why you did - to remove the header. I don't think that way... if I remove the header, I'm probably pulling the engine anyway, and it all drops out the bottom.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Thanks to Camaroholic I got the proper bolts. I read your post on installing it and how you had to do some repairs.

As for the SFI certification, I am not too concerned. I think it was already given up because I bought the bellhousing used and it had some slight alterations already. I know it will provide ample more protection for me than the brittle cast aluminum factory one, which is what I wanted.

I knew I would need the header out anyway because this winter plans are in the works for some turbo power

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

where did you get the remote bleeder?

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

I bought it from steve-d on here. You could probably make one yourself, I just didn't want to waste time scrounging up the parts.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

no air leaks or problems?

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

No, at least none at this point. It is basically a SS braided line that screws in place of the factory bleeder valve.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Well, after putting about 200 miles on the clutch sunday I can report that the engagement height has risen some. It is now nearly at the stock level, which is good. I can also report that the little bit of chatter seems to be decreasing steadily.

So far, very happy with the whole setup. Soon we will see how it does with some WOT runs on the bottle.

Jimmard

iTrader: (12)

Very nice, I will be running the same setup soon. I also got the bleeder line, seems like a nice piece, cant wait to get it in. Glad to hear it is working out for you.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

You will like the bleeder. I think one of the best parts is now I can bleed without even jacking the car up. It is makes it much more convenient to replace the fluid in the clutch system.