Clutch slip @ 2500 miles (Rear Main or Crankshaft plug??)
08-07-2006, 12:52 AM
#1
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Clutch slip @ 2500 miles (Rear Main or Crankshaft plug??) 2000 SS....
Spec 2 went in with Spec Steel flywheel around 2 months ago. Updated GM master and slave as well. Really choppy break-in period. Chatter went away around 450 miles, but began slipping around 2100 miles From the pics below, does it look like rear main or crankshaft plug? I have heard that excessive chatter could cause more than normal pressure on the rear main seal. Wet toilette paper method was used to remove old pilot bearing. I will have more pics of just the block tomorrow....
Thanks for your input.....
Pics of the nasty....
Spec 2 went in with Spec Steel flywheel around 2 months ago. Updated GM master and slave as well. Really choppy break-in period. Chatter went away around 450 miles, but began slipping around 2100 miles From the pics below, does it look like rear main or crankshaft plug? I have heard that excessive chatter could cause more than normal pressure on the rear main seal. Wet toilette paper method was used to remove old pilot bearing. I will have more pics of just the block tomorrow....
Thanks for your input.....
Pics of the nasty....
08-07-2006, 08:05 AM
#2
wrencher
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Pic of the back of the motor w/o the flywheel on?
How about the trans input shaft & slave area pic?
Those pics look like the result of oil intrusion, where's it coming from????
How about the trans input shaft & slave area pic?
Those pics look like the result of oil intrusion, where's it coming from????
08-07-2006, 08:41 AM
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I have no clue man. It has worked many times before with no problem. Believe me that is the last time I do that. I read on here of so many people doing it without problems.
I will have more pics in a few....
Input shaft had motor oil on it and slave is fine...
I will have more pics in a few....
Input shaft had motor oil on it and slave is fine...
08-07-2006, 09:15 AM
#5
May as well remove the flywheel to check it. It has to be removed to fix it anyway. I agree with keliente, makes no sense why anyone would want to risk it when Autozone rents the tool for cheaper than toilet paper.........it's freaking free. 
From the Manual Transmission FAQ above that no one seems to read:
From the Manual Transmission FAQ above that no one seems to read:
6. Can I use that old bread/wet toilet paper trick to remove the pilot bearing?
NO! This trick (which involves stuffing either bread or wet toilet paper into & behind the bearing to force it out) does not work because the area behind the pilot bearing is simply a freeze plug. If you force a lot of bread/tp into it, the bearing may come out but it can push that plug through the crankshaft and into the oil pan. This can cause an insane amount of oil to be lost, which in turn will ruin all of the friction material on the clutch. To remove the pilot bearing, either carefully cut it with a dremel tool, or use a very small puller for it (buy it or rent it from Auto Zone).
NO! This trick (which involves stuffing either bread or wet toilet paper into & behind the bearing to force it out) does not work because the area behind the pilot bearing is simply a freeze plug. If you force a lot of bread/tp into it, the bearing may come out but it can push that plug through the crankshaft and into the oil pan. This can cause an insane amount of oil to be lost, which in turn will ruin all of the friction material on the clutch. To remove the pilot bearing, either carefully cut it with a dremel tool, or use a very small puller for it (buy it or rent it from Auto Zone).
08-07-2006, 11:12 AM
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LOL I know the flywhell has to be taken of to fix this problem. I just didn't snap pics....
I think it's the rear main....I looked everywhere in my town for a puller first...then went with the wet toilet paper BS cuz I've done it a few times with no problem...
Can the plug for the crank leak slow? I'm not even getting a drop per day...more like a drop per week rate. I've got a new rear seal now and the plug will be here tomorrow.
Dustin what's up with OrlandoChevys site?
I think it's the rear main....I looked everywhere in my town for a puller first...then went with the wet toilet paper BS cuz I've done it a few times with no problem...
Can the plug for the crank leak slow? I'm not even getting a drop per day...more like a drop per week rate. I've got a new rear seal now and the plug will be here tomorrow.
Dustin what's up with OrlandoChevys site?
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08-07-2006, 03:29 PM
#9
Originally Posted by deejaydaze
2000 SS....
Wet toilette paper method was used to remove old pilot bearing.Thanks for your input.....
Pics of the nasty....
Wet toilette paper method was used to remove old pilot bearing.Thanks for your input.....
Pics of the nasty....
Thats the problem right there.The absolute worst way to remove the pilot bearing
(wish people would stop suggesting this method 
)You pushed the plug into the motor or twisted it a bit.You'll have to get the existing plug out(and pilot bearing) then install a new plug for it to seal 100% again.
08-08-2006, 01:07 PM
#14
Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
Can you get it out and put it back in without taking the whole motor or crankshaft out of the car and pressing it into the end of the crankshaft?
I wouldn't risk ussing the same one.Tried that before and it still leaked. You do not have to take apart the motor.
08-08-2006, 03:22 PM
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Hey, I did that like 5 years ago. 
Before I learned that the LS1 crank was hollow.
Wet toilet paper works AWESOME. On a SOLID CORE CRANK. As you now know, the LS1 is hollow.
Yes, it's the plug. I did the wet TP trick. Got the pilot bearing out. Walked away from the car for a couple days, went back, and oil had dribbled out of the hole (I didn't immediately reinstall the clutch).
You can indeed change it in the car. Just knock the plug sideways with a chisel, grab it with a pair of needlenose, and yank it out.
Go get a new plug from GM (it's about 4 bucks, I don't have a part number) and drive it in. I forget the exact depth spec tho. Just past the pilot bearing depth should work.
For luck, put some permatex ultra black around the edges after installation... 
I had the plug from my new Eagle crank pull that same thing - it leaked. I had to get a new clutch etc...
I replaced the one on the Eagle crank as well...
Before I learned that the LS1 crank was hollow.Wet toilet paper works AWESOME. On a SOLID CORE CRANK. As you now know, the LS1 is hollow.
Yes, it's the plug. I did the wet TP trick. Got the pilot bearing out. Walked away from the car for a couple days, went back, and oil had dribbled out of the hole (I didn't immediately reinstall the clutch).
You can indeed change it in the car. Just knock the plug sideways with a chisel, grab it with a pair of needlenose, and yank it out.
Go get a new plug from GM (it's about 4 bucks, I don't have a part number) and drive it in. I forget the exact depth spec tho. Just past the pilot bearing depth should work.
For luck, put some permatex ultra black around the edges after installation... I had the plug from my new Eagle crank pull that same thing - it leaked. I had to get a new clutch etc...
I replaced the one on the Eagle crank as well...
08-08-2006, 03:39 PM
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I already knew it was hollow. I just saw the trick done 5 times before with no problems. Any other best methods to removing it? I'm also worried that it wont be in enough or too much....
