Clutch pedal sticks to Floor NEED HELP!!!!
08-26-2006, 01:21 PM
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Clutch pedal sticks to Floor NEED HELP!!!! Just got my 2000 Z28 back with heads/cam, new LS6 slave cyl. and new Centerforce clutch w/stock flywheel. Ive got about 650 miles on the new setup. I finally decided to run the car hard last night and under heavy acceleration my clutch pedal would stick to the floor. I havent done the Drill Mod yet and im thinkin this may be the problem. The clutch fluid is about half full in the resivior, im not sure if this is the correct amount?? Does anybody know what the problem would be???
Thanks in advance
Seth
Thanks in advance
Seth
08-28-2006, 12:52 AM
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i am having the same problem for the last 5 months, and i have replaced my M/C cylinder and performed the "drill mod". So let me set you straight that the drill mod will not help our specific problem. I have done all the bleeding procedures and have come to the realization that i will need to replace the slave cylinder/throw out bearing, and the adjustalbe m/c cylinder was a waste of time and money. I have a metal ticking sound coming from under the car (bellhousing maybe?) during rolling start. I may have blown out the t/o bearing.
just something to look into before you pull out the M/C cylinder.
just something to look into before you pull out the M/C cylinder.
08-28-2006, 04:58 PM
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If you installed a new slave then you also got a new T/O bearing.
Do a search on the centerforce clutch. Many people have trouble shifting these at high rpm's. I think it has something to do with the weights on the PP. Not sure, but I think a few have removed the weights and had success while others have had luck with an adjustable master cylinder. I would try the master first...lot easier than pulling the clutch again!
Do a search on the centerforce clutch. Many people have trouble shifting these at high rpm's. I think it has something to do with the weights on the PP. Not sure, but I think a few have removed the weights and had success while others have had luck with an adjustable master cylinder. I would try the master first...lot easier than pulling the clutch again!
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08-28-2006, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1 jeff
If you installed a new slave then you also got a new T/O bearing.
Do a search on the centerforce clutch. Many people have trouble shifting these at high rpm's. I think it has something to do with the weights on the PP. Not sure, but I think a few have removed the weights and had success while others have had luck with an adjustable master cylinder. I would try the master first...lot easier than pulling the clutch again!
Do a search on the centerforce clutch. Many people have trouble shifting these at high rpm's. I think it has something to do with the weights on the PP. Not sure, but I think a few have removed the weights and had success while others have had luck with an adjustable master cylinder. I would try the master first...lot easier than pulling the clutch again!
and centerforce is gonna have to buy me a spec clutch, hopefully it will be the master cyl. 
08-29-2006, 01:33 AM
#13
Originally Posted by seth webster
If its the brand new clutch already going out im goin to be pissed and centerforce is gonna have to buy me a spec clutch, hopefully it will be the master cyl.
and centerforce is gonna have to buy me a spec clutch, hopefully it will be the master cyl.sorry for thh caps, i didnt notice it
08-29-2006, 02:40 PM
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I'm having the same problem I have 2300 miles on all new SLP flywheel, Spec 2+ clutch, slave cylinder, and adjustable Mcleod master cylinder and now my pedal comes up about an inch off the floor when starting out in first and I have to pull it up with my foot. I've been down the track once with this combo and have been driving pretty mellow to get better gas mileage. It's going back to the shop tonight, already picked up a new stock master cylinder.
08-29-2006, 07:55 PM
#15
i had this same problem and i noticed it was draining my hydraulic fluid, i took my car to a shop and they said there is fluid running down the tranny and i need a new slave cylinder which will be 200-250.00 for just the labor
its interesting someone said this could be because of exhaust heat, i noticed i never had this problem until i started running open y pipe and you could tell the difference in the heat inside the car, guess ill have to hurry and get the exhaust back on
its interesting someone said this could be because of exhaust heat, i noticed i never had this problem until i started running open y pipe and you could tell the difference in the heat inside the car, guess ill have to hurry and get the exhaust back on
Last edited by 02blkws6vert; 08-29-2006 at 07:56 PM. Reason: because
08-29-2006, 10:56 PM
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I have had the same problem, and went through many headaches during my research.
Here are my conclusions (they are credible, as I do not have the problem anymore
):
Pedal started sticking right after the car gained power after cam installation. The problem was even more pronounced when I used my 100 nitrous ponies on top.
Here's the thought process:
EGTs went up. I think we can all agree on that, right!?
Furthermore, I was on the stock clutch, which could not handle the increased power and started slipping, therefore creating more heat, right?! ( I wish I had pics of my old flywheel to post here. That bitch got burned badly!!)
Now, looking at your car from underneath, you will notice, that the clutch hydraulic line can run pretty close to the driver side header ( I have LTs).
Therfore I conclude, that the whole 'clutch sticking to the floor' issue is heat related. The increased EGTs will cause your clutch's hydraulic fluid to heat up, as will a slipping clutch. Consequently, the heat radiated from your header or the flywheel to your clutch hydraulic line will cause the fluid contained inside to boil, eventually.
And here's what I did:
I upgraded to a Spec Stage 3, which does not yest slip.
Then I changes my hydraulic fluid to synthetic DOT 3/4 with a much higher boiling point, and bled that bitch really good, so I would not have any air bubbles which could start expanding when exposed to heat.
Finally, just to be on the safe side, I wrapped the clutch hydraulic line with heat insulating material, in order to protect it from radiant heat emitted by the driver side header.
Et voila, all is good. The clutch pedal does not stick to the floor anymore, even if I beat the **** out of the car.
Oh yeah, I NEVER did do the Drill Mod.
Here are my conclusions (they are credible, as I do not have the problem anymore
):Pedal started sticking right after the car gained power after cam installation. The problem was even more pronounced when I used my 100 nitrous ponies on top.
Here's the thought process:
EGTs went up. I think we can all agree on that, right!?
Furthermore, I was on the stock clutch, which could not handle the increased power and started slipping, therefore creating more heat, right?! ( I wish I had pics of my old flywheel to post here. That bitch got burned badly!!)
Now, looking at your car from underneath, you will notice, that the clutch hydraulic line can run pretty close to the driver side header ( I have LTs).
Therfore I conclude, that the whole 'clutch sticking to the floor' issue is heat related. The increased EGTs will cause your clutch's hydraulic fluid to heat up, as will a slipping clutch. Consequently, the heat radiated from your header or the flywheel to your clutch hydraulic line will cause the fluid contained inside to boil, eventually.
And here's what I did:
I upgraded to a Spec Stage 3, which does not yest slip.
Then I changes my hydraulic fluid to synthetic DOT 3/4 with a much higher boiling point, and bled that bitch really good, so I would not have any air bubbles which could start expanding when exposed to heat.
Finally, just to be on the safe side, I wrapped the clutch hydraulic line with heat insulating material, in order to protect it from radiant heat emitted by the driver side header.
Et voila, all is good. The clutch pedal does not stick to the floor anymore, even if I beat the **** out of the car.
Oh yeah, I NEVER did do the Drill Mod.
Last edited by meatfoam; 08-29-2006 at 11:01 PM.
08-29-2006, 11:08 PM
#17
Originally Posted by meatfoam
I have had the same problem, and went through many headaches during my research.
Here are my conclusions (they are credible, as I do not have the problem anymore ):
Pedal started sticking right after the car gained power after cam installation. The problem was even more pronounced when I used my 100 nitrous ponies on top.
Here's the thought process:
EGTs went up. I think we can all agree on that, right!?
Furthermore, I was on the stock clutch, which could not handle the increased power and started slipping, therefore creating more heat, right?! ( I wish I had pics of my old flywheel to post here. That bitch got burned badly!!)
Now, looking at your car from underneath, you will notice, that the clutch hydraulic line can run pretty close to the driver side header ( I have LTs).
Therfore I conclude, that the whole 'clutch sticking to the floor' issue is heat related. The increased EGTs will cause your clutch's hydraulic fluid to heat up, as will a slipping clutch. Consequently, the heat radiated from your header or the flywheel to your clutch hydraulic line will cause the fluid contained inside to boil, eventually.
And here's what I did:
I upgraded to a Spec Stage 3, which does not yest slip.
Then I changes my hydraulic fluid to synthetic DOT 3/4 with a much higher boiling point, and bled that bitch really good, so I would not have any air bubbles which could start expanding when exposed to heat.
Finally, just to be on the safe side, I wrapped the clutch hydraulic line with heat insulating material, in order to protect it from radiant heat emitted by the driver side header.
Et voila, all is good. The clutch pedal does not stick to the floor anymore, even if I beat the **** out of the car.
Oh yeah, I NEVER did do the Drill Mod.
Here are my conclusions (they are credible, as I do not have the problem anymore
):Pedal started sticking right after the car gained power after cam installation. The problem was even more pronounced when I used my 100 nitrous ponies on top.
Here's the thought process:
EGTs went up. I think we can all agree on that, right!?
Furthermore, I was on the stock clutch, which could not handle the increased power and started slipping, therefore creating more heat, right?! ( I wish I had pics of my old flywheel to post here. That bitch got burned badly!!)
Now, looking at your car from underneath, you will notice, that the clutch hydraulic line can run pretty close to the driver side header ( I have LTs).
Therfore I conclude, that the whole 'clutch sticking to the floor' issue is heat related. The increased EGTs will cause your clutch's hydraulic fluid to heat up, as will a slipping clutch. Consequently, the heat radiated from your header or the flywheel to your clutch hydraulic line will cause the fluid contained inside to boil, eventually.
And here's what I did:
I upgraded to a Spec Stage 3, which does not yest slip.
Then I changes my hydraulic fluid to synthetic DOT 3/4 with a much higher boiling point, and bled that bitch really good, so I would not have any air bubbles which could start expanding when exposed to heat.
Finally, just to be on the safe side, I wrapped the clutch hydraulic line with heat insulating material, in order to protect it from radiant heat emitted by the driver side header.
Et voila, all is good. The clutch pedal does not stick to the floor anymore, even if I beat the **** out of the car.
Oh yeah, I NEVER did do the Drill Mod.
08-29-2006, 11:13 PM
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^^
Good start, in my opinion. Make sure you get synthetic DOT 3/4.
You want the fluid with the highest boiling point.
Well, not DOT 5 though, that's Silicone based and might chew up your seals. DOT 5's boiling point is actually lower that DOT 3/4's!!
Seth, I think you need a better aftermarket clutch. I just noticed that you have the whole H/C thing going on. Centerforce is known to be, eh..., marginal at best!
Cam and heads, huh?? How do you like it??
Good start, in my opinion. Make sure you get synthetic DOT 3/4.
You want the fluid with the highest boiling point.
Well, not DOT 5 though, that's Silicone based and might chew up your seals. DOT 5's boiling point is actually lower that DOT 3/4's!!
Seth, I think you need a better aftermarket clutch. I just noticed that you have the whole H/C thing going on. Centerforce is known to be, eh..., marginal at best!
Cam and heads, huh?? How do you like it??
08-29-2006, 11:39 PM
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I have heard that with the Centerforce clutch you will have problems if you have other than stock master installed. There is a post somewhere in this section that goes more into detail but basically because of the Centrifical force clutch you have you need to keep the STOCK master instead of the aftermarket one. So put a stock master back in and everything should be fine. Again this is not my experience but .........ahh here it is....posted by RED200Z28
I have worked with this problem for the last few months trying ot firgure out why I couldn't shift my car at WOT with my centerforce clutch. I replaced the slave with the 01-02 upgrade, and did everything their tech people told me to try to get this thing to shift properly. They finally told me an adjustable master cylinder would fix the problem. I wasn't about to spend another $300 to get my clutch to work properly. I did some research and found that the only clutch that had this problem was the centerforce, so I talked to a couple shops that installed them that said the only way tehy remedied the problem was with the Mcloed master cylinder. I talked to a firend that works for GM and he told me that not only did GM make an upgrade slave for the 01 and up cars, they also redesigned the masters to because of a bleedback problem. They never said anything about it to the public, because it would only effect a car running the centerforce clutch right off the bat because at high rpms, the wieghts ae pushing back on the throw out bearing and the fluid is bleeding back to the master cylinder keeping you from being able to bang the next gear. THis will not happen with the stock clutch or any other clutch that doesn't use centrifical wieghts to increase the clutches clamping pressure. So I decided tro try this theory out. Instead of ordering the Mcleod Master I ordered the 01 and up GM master ad threw it on there got it bled and took it out for a drive and it never worked better. I was so happy to finally have my clutch working like it should. The reason they worked fine when replace the master with teh Mcleod unit, was because like the upgraded master from GM, It had no bleed back problem. I later found out one of the dealerships in town was requiring you to give them your VIN number because they were trying to keep track of this problem.
I called centerforce and talked to their tech guys about my findings and they agreed with my findings and are going to look a little further into it, so there should be another tech article along with the centerforce clutch for LS1 cars soon.
I have worked with this problem for the last few months trying ot firgure out why I couldn't shift my car at WOT with my centerforce clutch. I replaced the slave with the 01-02 upgrade, and did everything their tech people told me to try to get this thing to shift properly. They finally told me an adjustable master cylinder would fix the problem. I wasn't about to spend another $300 to get my clutch to work properly. I did some research and found that the only clutch that had this problem was the centerforce, so I talked to a couple shops that installed them that said the only way tehy remedied the problem was with the Mcloed master cylinder. I talked to a firend that works for GM and he told me that not only did GM make an upgrade slave for the 01 and up cars, they also redesigned the masters to because of a bleedback problem. They never said anything about it to the public, because it would only effect a car running the centerforce clutch right off the bat because at high rpms, the wieghts ae pushing back on the throw out bearing and the fluid is bleeding back to the master cylinder keeping you from being able to bang the next gear. THis will not happen with the stock clutch or any other clutch that doesn't use centrifical wieghts to increase the clutches clamping pressure. So I decided tro try this theory out. Instead of ordering the Mcleod Master I ordered the 01 and up GM master ad threw it on there got it bled and took it out for a drive and it never worked better. I was so happy to finally have my clutch working like it should. The reason they worked fine when replace the master with teh Mcleod unit, was because like the upgraded master from GM, It had no bleed back problem. I later found out one of the dealerships in town was requiring you to give them your VIN number because they were trying to keep track of this problem.
I called centerforce and talked to their tech guys about my findings and they agreed with my findings and are going to look a little further into it, so there should be another tech article along with the centerforce clutch for LS1 cars soon.
09-01-2006, 12:31 AM
#20
i talked to a guy at a local reputable transmission shop, he said that heat from the exhaust wont hurt the slave cylinder or master cylinder or affect anything, he also said that it would be a stupid idea to go sticking a drill bit in your maste cylinder line, and only so much fluid will flow through that even drilling it out wont allow more fluid to enter only so much enters and if it was supposed to be drilled out gm would have done it.