Can't shift for SHIT after heads/cam install!
09-05-2006, 11:29 PM
#1
Can't shift for **** after heads/cam install! So before the heads/cam I could shift what I would consider to be extremely fast. Not powershifting as in not lifting off the throttle, but speed shifting. On the gas, off the gas, clutch in, next gear, clutch out, and back on the throttle as quick as possible. With only bolt-ons and not even all of them at that, the car was running 12.3s@112-113.
Fast forward to tonite. I just got the heads/cam installed at the end of last week and had it tuned on sat. It made 445/398. Since the first time I went WOT after the new setup my crisp, clean, fast shifts were gone. I found it alot more difficult to get it out of gear, and even harder to get it into the next gear. Plain and simple, my shifts were slow
I am running a Textralia clutch with about 9-10k on it. It has NEVER showed even a hint of slipping, and consistantly chirped 4th at the track on DRs. But the signs I am getting remind me of the stock clutch after the full exhaust, where it just didn't want to shift like it should.
Also I can tell that the motor torquing over is making it seem awkward to tag the next gear as precise as before. It's like as soon as I am ready to make my move, the tranny itself is moving back into normal postion since I am momentarily off the throttle, and I am left with the shifter feeling out of place as I go for the next gear.
I haven't been grinding the gears, just being blocked out of them. I guess the first thing to do will be flush and re-bleed the hydraulic system with fresh fluid. Other than that what about some stiffer motor/tranny mounts? Any and all insight would be GREATLY appreciated. In this case, less would be more, cause I was faster with less power cause of the crap shifting
Fast forward to tonite. I just got the heads/cam installed at the end of last week and had it tuned on sat. It made 445/398. Since the first time I went WOT after the new setup my crisp, clean, fast shifts were gone. I found it alot more difficult to get it out of gear, and even harder to get it into the next gear. Plain and simple, my shifts were slow
I am running a Textralia clutch with about 9-10k on it. It has NEVER showed even a hint of slipping, and consistantly chirped 4th at the track on DRs. But the signs I am getting remind me of the stock clutch after the full exhaust, where it just didn't want to shift like it should.
Also I can tell that the motor torquing over is making it seem awkward to tag the next gear as precise as before. It's like as soon as I am ready to make my move, the tranny itself is moving back into normal postion since I am momentarily off the throttle, and I am left with the shifter feeling out of place as I go for the next gear.
I haven't been grinding the gears, just being blocked out of them. I guess the first thing to do will be flush and re-bleed the hydraulic system with fresh fluid. Other than that what about some stiffer motor/tranny mounts? Any and all insight would be GREATLY appreciated. In this case, less would be more, cause I was faster with less power cause of the crap shifting
09-05-2006, 11:36 PM
#2
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it depends on where the rpms are when you go for the next gear.. if theyre still too high, then i'd say lighten the flywheel. if theyre not, lighten it anyway, and shift faster. light flywheels are the best.
09-06-2006, 04:37 PM
#5
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I'm sympathizing with you here Brian. I think motor/trans mounts are the answer. I think once you hit a certain level of power you've got some much twist in the drivetrain that it makes precision shifting go to crap.
09-07-2006, 12:00 AM
#6
Originally Posted by josh99ta
I'm sympathizing with you here Brian. I think motor/trans mounts are the answer. I think once you hit a certain level of power you've got some much twist in the drivetrain that it makes precision shifting go to crap.
BTW, it was awesome meeting some of you guys last weekend. I had a great time and hope we can all get together again sometime.
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09-09-2006, 09:18 PM
#8
I bled and bled and bled some more to no avail. It is acting just like it did with the stock clutch and bolt-ons when it wasn't up to par. I take off, stomp it in 1st, I go for 2nd and it's pretty decent, go for 3rd and it doesn't want to go, blocks me out for a moment, then goes. During this time I can notice the clutch get softer, and I lose approximately 1/4-1/3 of peddle travel. If I drive it normal, it feels 100% fine. When it DOES go into gear, it doesn't slip.
I'm lost on this. I really don't think that it's the hydraulics. It would be too much of a coincidence for it to start acting up at the EXACT time I added the heads/cam. I am starting to think that the friction plate is trying to adhere to the flywheel, and that's why it won't release as fast. Cause after I added the TEXtralia to the EXACT same master cylinder setup while I was only bolt-ons, it was perfect. Now, with more power, it sucks again
I'm going to be completley pissed if this clutch can't perform with an average heads/cam setup. I have only had it for 5 months and about 9-10k. It has never seen slicks or hard clutch dumps (stock 10 bolt) so it hasn't even been used to it's claimed potential.
Still looking for someone to point me in a new direction of something to try......
I'm lost on this. I really don't think that it's the hydraulics. It would be too much of a coincidence for it to start acting up at the EXACT time I added the heads/cam. I am starting to think that the friction plate is trying to adhere to the flywheel, and that's why it won't release as fast. Cause after I added the TEXtralia to the EXACT same master cylinder setup while I was only bolt-ons, it was perfect. Now, with more power, it sucks again
I'm going to be completley pissed if this clutch can't perform with an average heads/cam setup. I have only had it for 5 months and about 9-10k. It has never seen slicks or hard clutch dumps (stock 10 bolt) so it hasn't even been used to it's claimed potential.
Still looking for someone to point me in a new direction of something to try......
09-09-2006, 09:27 PM
#10
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Is the clutch fluid getting hot mabey you removed the heat shield or bent the line closer to the block or exhaust after the heads cam package?? Im just throwing out some ideas. I say trans mount for sure tho my tranny used to walk to the right before the poly trans mount under wot, now it stays in place.
09-09-2006, 10:10 PM
#11
Thanks for the ideas guys. I didn't touch the line, heat shield or anything to do with the clutch or hydraulics at all during the heads/cam install.
I don't see why it would be getting hot now, it was fine before this. But I just flushed the fluid and re-bled it for good measure, and it didn't help at all.
I don't see why it would be getting hot now, it was fine before this. But I just flushed the fluid and re-bled it for good measure, and it didn't help at all.
09-10-2006, 02:10 PM
#14
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Does your clutch fully disengage? In first gear, with the clutch pedal depressed, you should be able to spin your motor to the rev limit without the car creeping ahead.
09-10-2006, 08:00 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Thanks for the ideas guys. I didn't touch the line, heat shield or anything to do with the clutch or hydraulics at all during the heads/cam install.
I don't see why it would be getting hot now, it was fine before this. But I just flushed the fluid and re-bled it for good measure, and it didn't help at all.
I don't see why it would be getting hot now, it was fine before this. But I just flushed the fluid and re-bled it for good measure, and it didn't help at all.
With a big power increase comes a big increase in heat output from the headers. It's well known that too much heat will cripple your hydraulics. Probably worth a try to insulate the lines. At least it's fast and cheap.
09-10-2006, 08:11 PM
#18
Drill mod was done when the car was stock.
I insulated the line a while ago, heat shield still in place, and I have the line routed as far away as possible.
The clutch is perfect until I call on it to do it's job, no creeping like aforementioned. As far as the "chopping" I still don't understand what your getting at, but it shifts fine at normal or even mild acceleration, but when the revs are up, forget it.
I insulated the line a while ago, heat shield still in place, and I have the line routed as far away as possible.
The clutch is perfect until I call on it to do it's job, no creeping like aforementioned. As far as the "chopping" I still don't understand what your getting at, but it shifts fine at normal or even mild acceleration, but when the revs are up, forget it.
