Clutch ???'s
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Clutch ???'s
What are you guys running that make 550 to the wheels. My actual #'S are in my sig.
Took the car to the track to see what kind of mph it would turn with the blower. 1st pass since the install netted 122 with the STOCK clutch slipping down the track. Stopped to get my timeslip and and about choked on the smell. 2nd pass the car never accelerated through 2nd gear. The shift into 2nd caused the tach to go right to redline, got out of it and then back into it to have it only go right to redline again. It hooked in 3rd though. The amount of smoke under the car looked like I just left the burn out pit but it wasn't tire smoke!!! LMAO.
Anyway:
I want a clutch that drives as close to stock as possible, no chatter, slow disengagement issues, ect... But will hold my power level.
Will a LS7 clutch do the trick?
Is Textralia the better choice? By the searches I have done it looks as though Textralia is the choice of champions but which version?
I am trying to keep this as cheap as possible seeing as I almost never drive the car (11,000 miles) but I will spare no expense to have it right, if that makes sense.
I drive the car on the street only, if it makes a difference.
Also What are you guys using for the flywheel, Aluminum or Steel?
Aluminum will make it rev faster which will allow it to get into boost faster but are there any drawbacks to aluminum?
With my milage at 11,000 do I, or should I do a Master/Slave, bearing ect...
Advise please.
Thanks,
Dave
Took the car to the track to see what kind of mph it would turn with the blower. 1st pass since the install netted 122 with the STOCK clutch slipping down the track. Stopped to get my timeslip and and about choked on the smell. 2nd pass the car never accelerated through 2nd gear. The shift into 2nd caused the tach to go right to redline, got out of it and then back into it to have it only go right to redline again. It hooked in 3rd though. The amount of smoke under the car looked like I just left the burn out pit but it wasn't tire smoke!!! LMAO.
Anyway:
I want a clutch that drives as close to stock as possible, no chatter, slow disengagement issues, ect... But will hold my power level.
Will a LS7 clutch do the trick?
Is Textralia the better choice? By the searches I have done it looks as though Textralia is the choice of champions but which version?
I am trying to keep this as cheap as possible seeing as I almost never drive the car (11,000 miles) but I will spare no expense to have it right, if that makes sense.
I drive the car on the street only, if it makes a difference.
Also What are you guys using for the flywheel, Aluminum or Steel?
Aluminum will make it rev faster which will allow it to get into boost faster but are there any drawbacks to aluminum?
With my milage at 11,000 do I, or should I do a Master/Slave, bearing ect...
Advise please.
Thanks,
Dave
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i have the textrailia exo skel and love it after the break in it now drives like stock and thats a twin disk its awsome i put down 676 rwhp and 685 torque on the bottle with no sign of failure
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That doesn't answer my questions.
Aluminum or steel flywheel. I think I would prefer aluminum but what are the drawbacks? What does everyone else run in these cars?
Do I do a Master/Slave cylinder and Bearing with only 11,000 miles?
Is the Aluminum Flywheel package part of the GP?
Thanks,
Aluminum or steel flywheel. I think I would prefer aluminum but what are the drawbacks? What does everyone else run in these cars?
Do I do a Master/Slave cylinder and Bearing with only 11,000 miles?
Is the Aluminum Flywheel package part of the GP?
Thanks,