blackrat

already did a few searches, nothing applies. I have the ls7 clutch and an ls2 vette fidanza flywheel. It worked decent with the stock master, shifted fine, but would sometimes stick on high rpm shifts.

I ordered an adjustable master from futral, didn't know what I was doing, and ended up blowing it out. I bought another and installed it, keeping the pedal around stock height and not going too far up like last time. It would barely engage in gear. I didn't think the Mityvac was working for me so I cut out a hole and bled it the right way. Went through 3/4 of a big bottle of dot 3. Like before I bleed it from the slave, I will have a good few strong pumps of the pedal at first, with great engagement height and easy shifting, but after a few more pumps it goes back to a soft pedal and engagement will be right off the floor, sometimes even trying to move when the pedal is all the way down, and I'll have to finesse (manhandle) the shifter into gear. I just had my tranny re-built so I really don't want to damage the damn thing trying to sort this out.

Should I bleed again? How come the pedal feels great when the car is off or just starting, then turns to crap after it's turned on and has had a few pumps?


Cliffs notes: ls7 clutch/ ls2 alum fw with shim. Worked ok w/ stock master except for high rpm shifts. Put in futral adjustable master, get a few good normal pumps at first, then turns to soft pedal with low engagement.

FlipFlopWS6

iTrader: (1)

i'd like to see what the answer to this is... i might be getting the LS7clutch/LS2 flywheel.

blackrat

^sorry,forgot to note that i had the aluminum fw. if youre just getting the oem version then you can run it fine no shim. however, the alum version needs some bugs to be worked out.

blackrat

Does this sound like I have more air in there? I could understand a soft pedel all the time, but the fact that it feels normal after the car has been sitting for awhile but goes soft after a couple of pushes is what's catching me up. Could there be an air leak? if so, where? the ss line seems to be in there pretty solid, it won't pull out. also, does the car running have any effect on hydraulics? I'm not sure how but I can almost swear that it stays stiff if the car is running.

Could this be a symptom of a bad slave? I put in a new one when I did the swap a few thousand miles ago.

blackrat

ttt one last time. i did another bleed session and noticed that even though there was no air coming out the bleeder, when i went to go check the fluid level i would see a few air bubbles coming out the hole and rising to the top.

purdueranger

iTrader: (11)

I blead my clutch and fixed the softness feel after about 33% of the way down. Now it has a consistant feel to it. Damn fluid was black. EEk.

blackrat

ive flushed enough fluid through there that the stuff is clear as water.

blackrat

Just to post up info for future people, it was the slave cylinder. It didn't have anything visually wrong with it, but I had it replaced and it works flawlessly now. I assume I blew it out when I put in my first adjustable master. Expensive lesson to learn, believe me.

Anyway, I had the tech take measurements of the everything to see if the shim is needed. He said with the shim installed it's withing a 1/16 of an inch of stock, so he left it in. As it is right now, my pedal is set at stock height, and the release point is near the top, exactly like the stock clutch felt.

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Yeah. It's not so bad to buy a slave and I'm sure they warrantied it. Its just the fact you have drop that S>O>B> tranny...lol.

blackrat

hah, i wish. no, i bought the slave and did the whole install myself the first time. it was ok till i got the adj. master sevedral months later. after I started having these issues I figured it had to be something inside, either the fingers on the pressure plate or something. i didn't want to deal with pulling the tranny again so I brought it to the shop.

costs over 6 months of diagnosing:
2 slave cylinders=$200
2 futral masters=$400
Cost for shop to pull tranny=$300



eh, whatever. at least the f'in thing works now.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Got your PM, glad to hear it. So now I'm debating putting the McLeod back in to replace the stock master the shop recommended over the McLeod I already had installed. Heh, does that make sense?

Maybe it wouldn't be so difficult since it was already installed. Any write-ups laying around this place?

blackrat

yeah, here's the article at install university.

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

It's not too helpful though as there is no real close-up pics of what's going on. Kind of understandable though since the master is pretty much impossible to see given it's position. All I can help you with is to say be patient. I had to mess with that u-bolt for about 45 minutes by itself, installing it and removing it until it finally slid home.

Good luck.

EDIT: Guess you can't link directly there. click install docs and you'll see and article about the mcloud MC/drill mod install.