bad master cylinder?
11-27-2006, 07:48 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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bad master cylinder? well i just replaced my slave cylinder in my 2000 trans am ws6, because when i get on it when i shift from 1-2 its fine but when i shift from 2-3 my pedol sticks on the floor and i overrev because it wont go into gear. so i figured the slave cylinder was bad. well that cleaned up the sloppy pedal i had but it still does the same thing, should i just try replacing the master now? i really dont see anything else that could be the problem but i do know that its getting expensive throwing parts at it and not to mention i spent a day pulling out the transmission to install this part and it didnt even fix my problem. any suggestions/help/conformation woudl be appreciated thanks alot. -chris
11-29-2006, 12:47 AM
#3
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i thought about trying the drill mod, but if that was the problem then all 98-00 f-bodys would have this problem. so it has to be a bad master cylinder, or something else. i mean yeah the drill mod might help.....but i have driven other 2000's and got on it and had no problem at all. should i replace the master cylinder and then do the drill mod on top of that? surely it cant be problem with the clutch itself, it engages just fine and works properly
11-29-2006, 03:11 PM
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my clutch does the same exact thing. I have no idea what it is. I havent changed the slave or master yet but i have bled the hell out of the system and it still didnt help. I already have the drill mod too. it is so weird because when driving normally it is 100% perfect, only under hard acceleration it sticks to the floor. and it only happens on the 2-3 shift. i have to let off the throttle so there is no telling if it happens on the 3-4 shift but i wouldnt doubt it. its been doing that for about a month now. yesterday i got on it just to see if it still did it but instead of sticking to the floor it stayed up top and was harder than concrete. i havent got on it since to see if it sticks or gets hard.
11-29-2006, 04:26 PM
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my car does the same thing. i have no mods to the tranny. i will look back to this thread for updates, cuz i wanna go to the track, but you cant run a 1/4 mile staying in 2nd hear. 
11-29-2006, 08:54 PM
#6
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ok this problem seems to be going around worse than a bad std. what the heck is wrong with our cars and why is it happening so frequently? none of us are ever going to be able to use our cars if we cant get this fixed, i boguth my car to drive around and not beat on it but i did also buy it to get on it every now and then. thats what its for. and i will be damned if i cant get on it whenever i feel like it or take it to the track a time or two. this is really pissing me off. it sounds like the drill mod didnt help one guy on here that posted. and i replaced my slave which it did help in one way, (when i got on it before the clutch would go limp, like if i just spun the tires a little bit off the line or something, and cleaned up the pedol a bit) but the problem is not completely fixed. it sounds to me like a factory defect.....what are the miles and year model on everyones car thats has this problem that i reading this? mine is 117,500 miles and its a 2000 ws6 t/a. i am thinking about doing the drill mod first, and if that doesnt fixing it, replacing the master cylinder with a new one. and if that doesnt fix it. do a drill mod on the new paster cylinder and if that doesnt fix it. sell my car and buy a new one lol. it honestly cant be anything else. the clutch works perfectly and the clutch cannot be at fault otherwise it would have this problem all the time no just during excessive accerleration. if anyone else has any ideas or wants to replace parts and let us know what works go ahead, i plan to replace mine soon maybe this weekend and i will post up the results. either way if you have a 98-00 its probably a good idea to update the hydrolics, but i do know the slaves are different and mine was worn out. and it feels much better now.
11-29-2006, 09:29 PM
#7
hey just buy a new master. don't do the drill mod yet. My buddies 98 f-bod does the same thing and he thinks its the slave, but maybe it's not the slave since you replace yours. I thought one time SPEC said if your pedal sticks to the floor they recommended the drill mod, it even came in the directions with there clutch, so who knows!
also, its more likely to stick to the floor after a hard run
also, its more likely to stick to the floor after a hard run
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11-29-2006, 10:06 PM
#8
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no the pedal should not stick to the floor after a hard run by any means but the pedal in our case is sticking from 2nd-3rd gear and from any gear change above that. im going to try the drill mod on my old factory master first, then try replacing the master cylinder without the drill mod, then trying the drill mod on top of that if it doesnt work. one of the 3 solutions should fix my problem seeing as i have already replaced the slave, which was the hard part so atleast that is done 
11-29-2006, 10:31 PM
#10
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yeah we will see, i just want a car that performs correctly and hopefully i can help you guys out also. we will see, im shooting for sunday but i also have a date with the cowboys/giants game so we will see if i have time to work it in
11-30-2006, 09:19 AM
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i hope somebody finds out what the hell it is. i feed bad for 96TransAmM6, he did exactly what i dont want to happen to me. the poor guy went through all the trouble of dropping the trans and changing the slave and hydraulics and it still didnt fix his problem. not to mention all the money spent. i have a 99 SS but it has the updated hydraulics and drill mod. If i do anything im going to start with the easiest and change the master first.
11-30-2006, 09:39 AM
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needs to be drilled id say 
ALOT of the 98-02 cars have already done it or arnt driven hard enough to have the issue
its alot cheaper to drill it then to replace it too
ALOT of the 98-02 cars have already done it or arnt driven hard enough to have the issue its alot cheaper to drill it then to replace it too
11-30-2006, 09:39 AM
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The drill mod should fix the pedal sticking problem, you might as well change the master while you are down there. That would probably save you having to go down there again in a year.
11-30-2006, 08:53 PM
#14
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well its not a big deal i needed a new slave anyway it was half of the problem, i just want my car to run right and everything be perfect. i dont like to half *** stuff so might as well have replaced it. sucks i had to do it but o well. its the price you pay having a fast car lol
12-01-2006, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 96TransAmM6
well its not a big deal i needed a new slave anyway it was half of the problem, i just want my car to run right and everything be perfect. i dont like to half *** stuff so might as well have replaced it. sucks i had to do it but o well. its the price you pay having a fast car lol
12-03-2006, 07:26 PM
#16
I feel your pain man. Since I put my Tex clutch in 2 years and 8000 miles ago I have been through 4 slaves and I still have an issue. I replaced the master when i replaced the clutch but I think it is the master now. The pedal stuck to the floor 3 days after i replaced the slave this last time. If the master does not fix my issue I probably will sell my formy. Sucks, but I'm tired of the bs and losing money.
12-03-2006, 09:23 PM
#17
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hey es98ls1 , im not familiar with a tex clutch , but if its a heavier aftermarket clutch, my advice to you would be replace it with a stock clutch. the problem with aftermarket clutches is they put too much pressure on the slave cylinder, i had a act 2600 in my FWD turbo talon because i was told i needed a better clutch to handle the HP it made. well after putting that clutch in i had nothing but problems, went through 3 slaves, 2 masters, and actually broke a clutch shift fork. then i put a new stock clutch back in a never had a problem again, i know these are two different cars and differnt style slave cylinders but its the same concept. and trust me aftermarket clutches suck because they are not factory and to be honest a stock clutch will handle just about any horsepower if its driven correctly unless it is an all out race car. if you are under 500 hp there should be no problem at all. the reason alot of people always want to go aftermarket is because they dont know how to drive their car and think its the facory clutches fault. but if you have been through 4 slaves i guarentee you its the clutch. but anyways you can try that or whatever....my dad owns and runs his own shop and has been doing it for 30 years and i have been helping/working for him for 5 years so i have been around it and im offering you advice from experience not from reading about it somewhere on the internet lol. so anyways i know it sucks but you might try that and see if that fixes your problem before selling a great car. good luck man
12-10-2006, 11:47 PM
#18
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so check this out, my check engine light comes on a few days ago and my car starts making a loud vaccum leak/squeaky sound that gets louder with the engine rpm.....so im like **** i got a vacuum leak somewhere, i pop the hood at the gas station but cant find the leak. so i figure alright i will check it the next day when its light outside and get the code read, well the next day the noise goes away but the light stays on.....its goes like that for about 3 days. so on my day off i am headed to my shop to work on it and i think to myself alright im gonna go ahead and test to see if my clutch still isnt working ( i havnt got on it since i replaced the slave which didnt fix the problem) so i pull out of my house on the highway get on it all the way til 6th gear with no problem at all going like 110 ( i was shifting at about 5000 and i wasnt slamming it all fast into gear just shifting gingerly) then let off, and clutch works fine, and then the check engine light turns off.......how weird is that. the clutch didnt go soft or stay on the floor however i still felt that maybe it wasnt perfect. but this is one crazy way for a car to act if you ask me. i took it to the shop anyway but couldnt do the drill mod cuz i couldnt get my car on the lift and i wasnt about to do that **** on the ground lol. my dad said i might have an air valve sticking as far as the leak/light problem goes.....what are everyones thoughts on this / updates on clutch problems
12-15-2006, 12:11 AM
#19
I've done the drill mod, replaced the slave, master, and changed to a puck style disk with my old LS6 pressure plate. I reset the adjuster on the presure plate when I put it back on. Depending on driving style, my clutch will engage toward the top (light driving), toward the bottom (getting on it a bit), and stick to the floor at wot runs. My SWAG is that when the adjustable PP's get old, they can change adjustment throughout the RPM. The only other possibility is that the line has some unknown issue.
12-15-2006, 06:44 PM
#20
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When I put my clutch in (a LS6) six months ago, I moved the little adjusters w/ springs on them, to the open position.
Should I have done this?
Did i possibly set myself up for a clutch that doesnt disengage all the way?
Should I have done this?
Did i possibly set myself up for a clutch that doesnt disengage all the way?