clutch install in an 02
12-21-2006, 01:44 PM
#1
clutch install in an 02 Ok, I have read alot of posts and am still a little unsure of what I NEED to get when replacing my clutch. The car has 41,000miles on it and I plan on doing the LS7/LS2 clutch/flywheel setup.
Do I NEED to get anything else?
Thanks for clearing this up for me.
Do I NEED to get anything else?
Thanks for clearing this up for me.
12-21-2006, 03:39 PM
#3
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you get an LS2 or LS7 clutch kit it should include everything you need, besides the flywheel bolts, which are optional to replace.
Meaning the kit should have the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel (most LS clutch kits come with one), pilot bearing, alignment tool, and slave cylinder. Whatever it doesn't come with, just purchase separately.
Meaning the kit should have the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel (most LS clutch kits come with one), pilot bearing, alignment tool, and slave cylinder. Whatever it doesn't come with, just purchase separately.
12-21-2006, 04:14 PM
#4
Originally Posted by TransAminal
If you get an LS2 or LS7 clutch kit it should include everything you need, besides the flywheel bolts, which are optional to replace.
Meaning the kit should have the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel (most LS clutch kits come with one), pilot bearing, alignment tool, and slave cylinder. Whatever it doesn't come with, just purchase separately.
Meaning the kit should have the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel (most LS clutch kits come with one), pilot bearing, alignment tool, and slave cylinder. Whatever it doesn't come with, just purchase separately.
SDPC:
12571611 GM Performance LS2 Flywheel $222.50
24237690 GM Performance LS7 Clutch and Pressure Plate Kit $360.07
I'm guessing this setup doesn't have pilot, alignment tool and slave....anyone know?
Thanks, James.
Trending Topics
12-28-2006, 12:38 PM
#8
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you buy the kit it should come with the alignment tool. The slave and the pilot berring come seperately. The pilot berring is $17.98 with tax at WS6 store and the slave is $109.95 with tax at Byunspeed.
12-28-2006, 08:07 PM
#9
I just did a clutch install for the first time over the weekend and I ran into a few problems.
The bottom of the T56 is ribbed with a single rib on the bottom, it's not flat. I used a regular floor jack to get the tranny out and back in there. It would have been almost as easy to have tried to levitate the damned thing, so I would HIGHly recommend buying or renting a transmission jack. Power tools for getting the bolts off the pressure plate and flywheel help alot because it tries to spin. Taking the bell housing off I had to use about 3ft of extensions, but if you drop the back end of the tranny as far as it will go down then the bolts at the top of the bell housing are much more accessable. I figured that out when the tranny went back in.
Getting the slave off was a bitch, after breaking loose the two 10mm bolts holding the slave on, I found they're easiest to remove with a magnet. The slave is a pita to get off because the quick disconnect line from what I saw is basically impossible to access before the tranny comes out. Going back together it's much simpler. The Removal of the quick disconnect hydraulic line from the slave requires a specialty tool according to haynes, but I found that an 18mm open box end wrench works just as well. Also going back in because of the bell shape of the underbody of the car where the tranny's snugged in, the bell housing needs to be put on seperately before the tranny goes on.
I wish I had opted for an ls7 the Spec3 clutch disk is star shaped so it's got about a third as much friction material. Seems like a very inefficient design of clutch.
The bottom of the T56 is ribbed with a single rib on the bottom, it's not flat. I used a regular floor jack to get the tranny out and back in there. It would have been almost as easy to have tried to levitate the damned thing, so I would HIGHly recommend buying or renting a transmission jack. Power tools for getting the bolts off the pressure plate and flywheel help alot because it tries to spin. Taking the bell housing off I had to use about 3ft of extensions, but if you drop the back end of the tranny as far as it will go down then the bolts at the top of the bell housing are much more accessable. I figured that out when the tranny went back in.
Getting the slave off was a bitch, after breaking loose the two 10mm bolts holding the slave on, I found they're easiest to remove with a magnet. The slave is a pita to get off because the quick disconnect line from what I saw is basically impossible to access before the tranny comes out. Going back together it's much simpler. The Removal of the quick disconnect hydraulic line from the slave requires a specialty tool according to haynes, but I found that an 18mm open box end wrench works just as well. Also going back in because of the bell shape of the underbody of the car where the tranny's snugged in, the bell housing needs to be put on seperately before the tranny goes on.
I wish I had opted for an ls7 the Spec3 clutch disk is star shaped so it's got about a third as much friction material. Seems like a very inefficient design of clutch.
