1SickWS6

iTrader: (38)

For those who have the Mcleod twin disk installed in their cars with the adjustable master, did you also use a spacer behind the slave? I just installed a twin disk with the adj. master in my car and cannot get it into gear while idling. When it is off I can get it in first then start the car and take off with a very low pedal engagement. I have the master adjusted all the way out (as long as it can get) would it help to shorten it? I am pretty sure the slave is bled all the way out and I have adjusted it back and fourth with pretty much the same results. The only thing i can think of now is to add the spacer.. If anyone knows what it could possibly be please let me know, Thanks!

Ryan'sSS

iTrader: (15)

I didn't need to shim mine. Did you replace the slave cyl? Also I wouldnt adjust the MC all the way out.
My tranny started giving my fits when shifting it and I adjusted the MC out further and I ended up burning my clutch out in the burnout box when it slipped. Rebuilt my clutch just to have the tranny die a month later. I could have saved a few bucks on the clutch had I not adjusted it out.

AtlantaRTA

You need the master rod adjusted to the maximum length for the the most travel on the slave bearing for maximum release. Any air in the hydraulics will limit the release. Rebleed the system first before you go back in. Did you put the shims back on the clutch exactly as they were when you received it? Fred Taylor at McLeod is very knowledgeable about the clutch and easy to talk to if you need advice. Do you know your setup distance? That is really the only reason that you would shim a slave cylinder. Most people have no idea what it is or why they are shimming the base of the slave in the first place. McLeod's advice was 0.200" setup distance for wear. It can be up to 0.300' with the factory slave. Anyone on this board know the setup distance with the McLeod Twin Disc with the OEM AP slave? I am using the McLeod master and 1373 slave.

1SickWS6

iTrader: (38)

I put in a new OEM slave cylinder since I could not find anything better. I will try adjusting the master around I guess... and possibly the bleed. I am really thinking the spacer has to be added though because it feels like no clutch half way down on the peddle then you feel clutch and can hear the torque plate release. I put the shims on back just how I got them.

formula98ws6

Making the rod shorter will bring release point up ang give you more pedal.When you make it shorter it will pull piston up higher in cylinder thus pushing more fluid to disengage clutch further.Make it longer and piston has less stroke,so less fluid movement,less clutch movement.Mine works awesome.Only a few turns moves engagement alot.

1SickWS6

iTrader: (38)

Well yesterday I went and bought a mityvac and it solved all of my problems!!! MITYVAC Now I went ahead and disconnected the master cylinder from the peddle and put the peddle all the way to the top, then I screwed in the adjuster on the master so that it is the same length as the peddle and would just slip on at its furthest position. Is this the correct way to do it? Now the clutch engages at about 60% of its throw from the floor. I have never used either a twin disk or the adjustable master before. Thanks for all the responses!!

AtlantaRTA

Air was the most likely candidate in your case. The McLeod or any adjustable master will provide the longest stroke, push the most fluid, and give the most release with the master cylinder rod adjusted as far out as possible. The shorter you make the rod the less release you have. You can shorten the rod IF you have complete release and do not want the full stroke from the master. Make sure that with the car standing still, with your foot on the floor or preferably slightly off the floor, you can easily shift into and out of reverse. There's nothing wrong with the way you have it adjusted now though.