Built T56 with a 2 Step?'s
05-02-2007, 08:00 AM
#2
wrencher
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I use a 2 step full wieght car McLeod twin disc on E/T drags.
I usually leave @ 5500+.
I build my own trans, it has been in the car 3+ years, no problems.
I powershift it in the run as well.
I hold the throttle down at the line w/the 2 step & dont let up till the finish line
I usually leave @ 5500+.
I build my own trans, it has been in the car 3+ years, no problems.
I powershift it in the run as well.
I hold the throttle down at the line w/the 2 step & dont let up till the finish line
05-02-2007, 08:27 AM
#3
Originally Posted by wrencher
I use a 2 step full wieght car McLeod twin disc on E/T drags.
I usually leave @ 5500+.
I build my own trans, it has been in the car 3+ years, no problems.
I powershift it in the run as well.
I hold the throttle down at the line w/the 2 step & dont let up till the finish line
I usually leave @ 5500+.
I build my own trans, it has been in the car 3+ years, no problems.
I powershift it in the run as well.
I hold the throttle down at the line w/the 2 step & dont let up till the finish line
05-02-2007, 05:13 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Six Speeds Inc.
We use a harlan 2 step and have for 4 years. We launch anywhere from 7000-8800rpms without issues. Of course this is a face plated transmissions.
Thanks,
Amber
Thanks,
Amber
Trending Topics
05-02-2007, 07:57 PM
#8
The gray wire off my 2-step goes to pin 32 on the blue connector, which I think is the white upper switch.
Face-plating gets rid of the blocker rings, and enables high rpm powershifting without damage. I have 100 passes on my faceplated rings with no issues. Here is a brief run down of what faceplating is.
Pro shifting and face plating serve the same basic purpose, a bigger window for engagement to prevent missed shifts. Neither are synchronized, so they make street driving difficult. Contrary to popular belief, YOU MUST USE THE CLUTCH when shifting with either system. Although it is mechanically possible to shift without the clutch, the shock load of a clutchless shift can cause severe damage to the transmission. We do manufacture a clutchless transmission with a starting price of $7580.00.
Face plating is preferred over pro shifting, but it slightly more costly (initially) than pro shifting. In the long run you will find that face plating is more cost effective due to less wear on engagement components.
With pro shifting, as the pro rings wear from normal use, they burr up and require dressing, deburring and/or replacement to maintain smooth shifting.
With face plating, the engagement lugs are on the face of the slider and the lugs also have a much larger contact area, so in the unlikely event that they burr up, it will not affect shift action. Due to the design of the shift lugs they are more durable, so longevity is increased dramatically (about three to four times longer than a pro ring) and there is virtually no chance of popping out of gear making for a much more streetable set up.
Face-plating gets rid of the blocker rings, and enables high rpm powershifting without damage. I have 100 passes on my faceplated rings with no issues. Here is a brief run down of what faceplating is.
Pro shifting and face plating serve the same basic purpose, a bigger window for engagement to prevent missed shifts. Neither are synchronized, so they make street driving difficult. Contrary to popular belief, YOU MUST USE THE CLUTCH when shifting with either system. Although it is mechanically possible to shift without the clutch, the shock load of a clutchless shift can cause severe damage to the transmission. We do manufacture a clutchless transmission with a starting price of $7580.00.
Face plating is preferred over pro shifting, but it slightly more costly (initially) than pro shifting. In the long run you will find that face plating is more cost effective due to less wear on engagement components.
With pro shifting, as the pro rings wear from normal use, they burr up and require dressing, deburring and/or replacement to maintain smooth shifting.
With face plating, the engagement lugs are on the face of the slider and the lugs also have a much larger contact area, so in the unlikely event that they burr up, it will not affect shift action. Due to the design of the shift lugs they are more durable, so longevity is increased dramatically (about three to four times longer than a pro ring) and there is virtually no chance of popping out of gear making for a much more streetable set up.
