Textralia OZ700 after 10k miles
#3
The cracks are heat related and this is not terribly abnormal. It looks like there has been a pretty significant slippage event (or slippage events) on the disc and flywheel. You can check disc wear by min'ing the disc thickness and comparing it to their original thickness (they should be able to provide this info to you). This will allow you to better understand the amount of wear you have seen this far. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
#4
Originally Posted by SPEC-01
The cracks are heat related and this is not terribly abnormal. It looks like there has been a pretty significant slippage event (or slippage events) on the disc and flywheel. You can check disc wear by min'ing the disc thickness and comparing it to their original thickness (they should be able to provide this info to you). This will allow you to better understand the amount of wear you have seen this far. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
#5
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Originally Posted by 02NBMWS6
youre right about the slipping, except it wasnt slipping, it was dragging. The clutch was still strong enough to pull the wheels on my full weight car, but had a nasty habit of dragging
edit: there is NO air in the system and the slave and master are brand new no leaks
Last edited by Jimmard; 05-04-2007 at 02:39 AM.
#6
Originally Posted by Jimmard
My textralia is dragging like crazy also, but still grabs like crazy. Problem is that it is hard to get into gear now because it is dragging worse and worse. Is there any known fix to this or will the clutch have to be replaced?
edit: there is NO air in the system and the slave and master are brand new no leaks
edit: there is NO air in the system and the slave and master are brand new no leaks
it took out 2-3-4 gear in my car is what i was told when i had the tranny rebuilt
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I haven't shifted hard in my car since the clutch has started dragging . I want to avoid taking out my trans because of a bad clutch. If the clutch was designed for stock hydraulics, then we shouldn't have to run an adjustable master.... Why is it dragging then because I know for sure that everything is bled correctly. Only thing i can think of is that my brand new slave with 9000 miles on it went bad..... but that doesnt make sense because you, as well as other people, seem to be having the same problem. What clutch did you go with this time?
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#8
A clutch that drags and a clutch that slips can result in the same disc appearance--ultimately you are not seeing proper actuation. Aside from the potential that the geometry is a little off (and a shim is needed) the only other potential issue is hydraulic. These cars can be a beast to bleed properly on occasion. Either way it wouldn't hurt to try shimming the slave out a bit. Let me know if you all need shims... we have them readily available. Thanks,
#9
Originally Posted by Jimmard
I haven't shifted hard in my car since the clutch has started dragging . I want to avoid taking out my trans because of a bad clutch. If the clutch was designed for stock hydraulics, then we shouldn't have to run an adjustable master.... Why is it dragging then because I know for sure that everything is bled correctly. Only thing i can think of is that my brand new slave with 9000 miles on it went bad..... but that doesnt make sense because you, as well as other people, seem to be having the same problem. What clutch did you go with this time?
Textralia doesnt recommend the shim or an adjustable, the only thing that they were able to tell me was that i had one of their old flywheels and the new ones dont do that. Thats what Jared told me over the phone.
I went ahead and got another OZ700 because i loved the way it felt and grabbed, but im leary about putting it back in the same way as the other one with my freshly rebuilt trans...
#10
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If it wasnt draggin when first installed, Id say the problem causing it to drag later would be somewhere other than the clutch itself.
The flywheel in the pics has definately seen some slippage, as has the plate. The cover looks surprisingly good though by comparison !
Do you slip the clutch a lot during normal driving ? Do you slip it during a launch ?
The flywheel in the pics has definately seen some slippage, as has the plate. The cover looks surprisingly good though by comparison !
Do you slip the clutch a lot during normal driving ? Do you slip it during a launch ?
#11
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
If it wasnt draggin when first installed, Id say the problem causing it to drag later would be somewhere other than the clutch itself.
The flywheel in the pics has definately seen some slippage, as has the plate. The cover looks surprisingly good though by comparison !
Do you slip the clutch a lot during normal driving ? Do you slip it during a launch ?
The flywheel in the pics has definately seen some slippage, as has the plate. The cover looks surprisingly good though by comparison !
Do you slip the clutch a lot during normal driving ? Do you slip it during a launch ?
dont get me wrong here, i loved hhow the clutch worked, but the dragging problem sucked *** and cost money
#13
Originally Posted by erikthegoalie
i bought the exo skel...so far so good with 461 RWHP, no dumps...all street..
What is dragging?
Thanks
Erik
What is dragging?
Thanks
Erik
just curious, why'd you go exoskel with only 460rwhp?
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I hear the exoskel is more street friendly than the Oz700. I might just upgrade to the exoskel when I am working out my clutch problems as, I may just have a bad one, but this clutch has been no where near a stock feeling from day 1. Stiff pedal, chatter, low engagement, etc. I'll have to talk to textralia, hopefully I got one of their "old" flywheels also. I cannot complain about the clutch grabbing tho, it still grips like crazy.
#15
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Originally Posted by Jimmard
I hear the exoskel is more street friendly than the Oz700.
You heard wrong !!!
My OZ700 had perfect road manners. Pedal was light, and the clutch drove pretty much like stock. It was superb.
I ran plenty of 11sec, and plenty of high and low 10 sec passes with the OZ700, and it never missed a beat.
When i removed it to fit a new T56, after 5000 miles with the 700, and an easy 50-60+ passes, it was only just fully broke in.
No real signs of slippage at all. it really is a superb clutch
Flywheel and cover were both excellent. That said, I am not hard on a clutch, I rarely slip them.
Clutches may allow slip, but they arent supposed to be slipped intentionally.
I upgraded to the ExoSkel myself...I didnt need to, I just thought may as well when the trans is out.
A friend will be using my old OZ700.
It defo is not as nice as the 700, but still quite driveable.
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
You heard wrong !!!
My OZ700 had perfect road manners. Pedal was light, and the clutch drove pretty much like stock. It was superb.
My OZ700 had perfect road manners. Pedal was light, and the clutch drove pretty much like stock. It was superb.
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I'm not liking mine either atm, but I dont know exactly what the problem is and wont know until I pull the clutch this weekend. Trans got stuck in 4th today when I was driving on the freeway, I'd hate to think that the lack of full disengagement of the clutch had anything to do with it . Time for a rebuild......
#19
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The x-grip disc is much more street friendly, have you looked into that? I just ordered one the other night. Also, someone on another forum had an issue like this and used the miti-vac to bleed from the master cylinder, first he found out the master was letting air in but after replacing and using the miti-vac, the clutch snapped right back to normal operation.