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Burnt clutch fluid

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Old 05-16-2007, 10:51 AM
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Default Burnt clutch fluid

About 3 months ago i replaced my clutch master cylinder because the old one was leaving that black rubber **** at the bottom of my resivor. All went well with the install and the fluid stayed clear. The only problem was that the pedal pressure was very inconsistent. Sometimes it was perfect and sometimes there was about an inch of play in the pedal.

About 2 weeks ago I wrapped my stainless steel clutch line with some heater hose and tied it up away from my headers. It solved the pressure problem immediately. The pedal was nice and firm.

About 2 days ago I noticed there was play in the pedal again so i popped open the fluid resivor and it was full, but dark. I use Valvoline synpower fluid that supposedly exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid.

If the clutch line is wrapped and away from the heat, what else could be causing the fluid to burn?
Old 05-16-2007, 04:12 PM
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You are using synthetic brake fluid? I always thought you was supposed to run regular dot 3???
Old 05-16-2007, 04:33 PM
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I've heard of people running DOT 4 and the Valvoline synpower all the time.

No ideas anybody?
Old 05-16-2007, 06:10 PM
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id use the simple dot3
Old 05-16-2007, 06:25 PM
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There are some threads on this over on CF, the Valvoline is known to turn dark quickly in the clutch system. I paid extra and just ordered Motul 600 since I'm replacing everything.
Old 05-16-2007, 07:19 PM
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Thanks for the input guys.

I'm just going to flush/bleed it tomorrow morning with more Valvoline synpower since thats all I have.

If it burns up quickly again then im going to have to try something else.

Thanks again.
Old 05-18-2007, 03:32 AM
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I used the same fluid with all brand new hyrdos... did the same thing to me, maybe even sooner. I'm not sure it really matters though. Anyone suggesting better clutch fluid?
Old 05-18-2007, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
The Valvoline is known to turn dark quickly in the clutch system.
I did a search and found that it stayed clear for quite some time for some people.

Maybe its a hit or miss kinda thing.
Old 05-18-2007, 09:45 AM
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I use the cheapest DOT 3 fluid out there and it works fine for me.
Old 05-18-2007, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by brad8266
I use the cheapest DOT 3 fluid out there and it works fine for me.
+1

i'd be a little weary about putting in synthetic fluid
Old 05-21-2007, 08:27 AM
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I did a flush/bleed job on the clutch this weekend.

There is even more play in the pedal now and it is very light.

I noticed there was black **** in the bottom of my resivor again.

That was the whole reason I changed the old master cylinder.

How could the master be taking a **** again?
Old 05-21-2007, 11:13 AM
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Here is a link to some posts by "Ranger". This is a common problem and thought to be heat related, and not the lines but the slave itself is cooking.

Link
Old 05-21-2007, 12:06 PM
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Thanks for the link man!
Old 05-21-2007, 02:04 PM
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Related to what you guys are talking about... Does anyone know how much you can manipulate the clutch line without causing problems with the line and without damaging the slave cyinder??

On my thirdgen, I was afraid to push or pull my line too much, because the fitting on the slave seems sort of fragile, and i didnt want to stress it. I also didnt watn to kink things...

Justin
Old 05-21-2007, 03:51 PM
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Its pretty durable.

As long as your not doing loops and corkscrews with it, it will be fine.
Old 05-21-2007, 05:38 PM
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Wrapped my line with this.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_17180_-1
Old 05-22-2007, 03:22 PM
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GM has a tech bulletin out on this. They say the black leaches out of the rubber color and is NOT bad.

i pressure bleed the clutch and have watch the reservoir over the past week and it slowly turned black.... i vote for black being turned by the rubber as GM says
Old 05-22-2007, 03:29 PM
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I just had my MC rebuilt with new seals it had a bad seal and he bored it out or did somethin on the inside and also did the drill mod for me. My car shifts great now and I wrapped the line well ill keep checking to see if the fluid changes.
Old 05-22-2007, 03:29 PM
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Here is Gm's Tech Bulletin:

Service VME - Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Discoloration #PI00204 - (Jul 11, 2002)
Service VME -- Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Discoloration
.

When servicing the vehicle with the VIN you entered, the following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms.

SERVICE VME
This is a service VME involving 1997 through 2002 Corvettes. Comments have been received about the fluid in the hydraulic clutch system being discolored. This discoloration is the result of carbon black used in the seal manufacturing process leaching out into the hydraulic fluid used in the clutch system. The discoloration may also collect on the inside of the clutch reservoir at the top of the fluid. This discoloration does not affect the operation of the clutch system and should not be considered a reason to flush the clutch hydraulic system.

Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance. This diagnostic approach was developed for the vehicle with the VIN you entered and should not be automatically be used for other vehicles with similar symptoms.
Old 05-22-2007, 08:32 PM
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It must have been a coincidence that there was suddenly play in the pedal when it turned black.

I can understand the fluid black, but there definately should not be black pieces of rubber at the bottom of the resivor.

I talked with a GM instructor at at local auto school and he said the black **** at the bottom is caused by the master, that is why I changed the master cylinder in the first place.

I just dont get how 2k miles later the black **** is back on a brand new master cylinder.


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