wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

Okay i have skimmed thru the manual FAQ section and cannot find any answers to my exact problem


Clutch was replaced and got a ls6 clutch put in
At same time of clutch, slave cyl was replaced

a year later i got the master cyl replaced because it would stick.

Now still same problem.


If i sit at a stoplight, or am pulling into a garage where i have the clutch pushed in for longer than 10-30 seconds, the clutch pedal doesn't come back up. I have to manually pull it up with my toe. It doesn't feeel like it slips at all, but does do this. Reason i want to get it fixed now is i want to visit the track, but staging could be very hard if i cannot hold the clutch in. I have figured out how to drive it on normal streets and city driving without it ever sticking, but the shop i have been going to cannot figure it out.

I have read a little bit about heat issues on the line from headers. I do have LT headers and could this be the problem?

I am clueless what to do next and don't feel like going from shop to shop to all hear the answer (i don't know).

Just wondering if anyone has seen or worked on a clutch with this kind of problem.


Thanks

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

You should read the FAQ more closely
The last section deals with clutch system bleeding/flushing.
Also provides this link from Ranger good info;
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Riding the clutch for 30 seconds is excess IMO as well, I always try to keep the pedal depressed for the minimum amount of time. Heat is the killer of our hydraulic systems.

Ranger

Dead on, wrencher.

Ranger

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

I guess i can attempt to bleed it out, but it just seems like a much bigger problem than heat ...

Ranger

I'm a believer in easy, cheap self-help remedies. Especially before stepping up to significant expense and inconvenience.

Very easy to spent $10 and invest 60-90 minutes cleaning up your clutch fluid. If that doesn't fix the issue you're experiencing, at least you'll know.

You might begin by inspecting the fluid in your master cylinder reservoir and posting what you find. If the fluid is pristinely clear and totally free of murkiness, debris and goo, you can move directly to changing out more parts...the usual path owners take without even so much as checking the fluid.

The good news is that many owners find that the root issue is corrupted fluid in the clutch. Good, because it's very easy to remedy.

Ranger

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the help .. i guess i can say i am one of those guys .. I will be checking the fluid after work tonight. I am one of those guys that just posted without reading too in depth and/or checking the fluid


thanks for the help .. i will post the results as soon as i find out

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

I am gonna say this till I am blue in the face. I truly believe that clutch fluid flushing is a required maintaince item in LSx hydraulic actuated clutches.
If it looks merky flush it. I have had the same McLeod master for 3 years now & I know flushing is the only thing that maintains it.

wssexorz

iTrader: (5)

my friend said he tried to do it once on his ls1 SS and he said it didn't work out too well. What is the best syringe to use for this?