GunshotZ28

I myself need some help. I have a 2000 Firehawk M6 and I'm having the sticky clutch pedal problem. The fluids were pretty dirty, so me and my friend decided to change them lastnight. Everything went well, but I'm still having the problem. I don't really want to do the drill mods because I heard it isn't worth it and other negative things. Sometimes it's hard to put into gear while I'm cruising. 1st-2nd gear will work find under aggressive driving, but like 2nd-3rd and so on, the clutch will not come back up. I'm thinking my slave cylinder could be going out or something.. Maybe even the master clutch clyinder or whatever it's called. I'm only 18 and I'm working on a budget here so I don't want to just go out and buy parts wishing they will solve my problems. Thanks for the help, Ryan.

defenestrate

iTrader: (1)

i had the same problem man...i just ended up getting an ls7 clutch and i love it. replaced it when i had my trans built...the ls7 is pretty affordable.

JonB

iTrader: (3)

The drill mod is not a requirment but it does help with high rpm shifting, most that have done it love it. However in my opion the drill mod has nothing to do with the sticking pedal and wont cure it. It is part of my write-up mostly because it is a good mod and if you have the system apart you might as well do it IMO.

It definetly sounds like you have a problem with your master or slave. Unfortunatly there is not way to tell which one it is. The write up is just a good easy to follow steps to solve the problem. Even it there was a way to tell it was 100% your slave I would still recomend you change the master at the same time. At the same time if your going to pull every thing apart to get to the slave you might as well replace the clutch as well. All i've done is give a good step by step procedure from the easiest and cheapest fixes to the hardest and most expensive. It all makes logical sense to go in the steps I have writen. Like I said there is no way to tell 100% which part has failed so logically you would start easy and cheap and work your way up. Start saving your pennies and get to work. Sorry I can't be more help.

GunshotZ28

Thanks for the help man. I have talked to a couple of people who have rebuilt T56 transmissions and they told me it sounds like my pressure plate has gone bad.. or is going bad, something like that. I plan on just buying a Spec stage 3 clutch along with a '01+ slave cylinder and slave shim. Hopefully that will solve my problem!

GunshotZ28

Just took a look at my clutch fluid today. Damn that **** is dark and dirty again. That's cause I just flushed it this past Thursday. How did it get dirty within' like 4 days? Whats goin' on here...

hz28

iTrader: (4)

I got an LS7, new slave, new master, Dot 5, drill mod, and I cant shift if I go over 6k rpms. My valvetrain is good for 7k rpms.

I am thinking is the LS7 presure plate, may be is too soft for a high rpms car.

harlesjohn

can i just convert it to a cable clutch im used to pushing brick walls..

greenbereto2

iTrader: (4)

Just thought I would let you guys know my experience with a master clutch cylinder and a pilot bearing that took a dump.

If your pedal goes all the way down and stays there, replace the easiest and correct part to replace. THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.

If your tranny is making some noise near the shifter or some vibration intermittently at the clutch pedal more then likely it will be your pilot bearing. I just experienced this on my 99 ls1 that I had already replaced a slave on 2 years ago because I thought my pedal to the floor problem was going to fix it. I did do one thing that I regret though.I nstalled a bearing and not a bushing. BEARINGS THERE SUCK! I like the old school bushing better. I guess next time I take the tranny out I'll do it. I replaced the clutch with a LUK PRO GOLD and Aluminum flywheel. Seems weird to drive. Not sure If I like it yet?


Greenbereto2

tripps

iTrader: (7)

I have a new clutch(Centerforce dual friction) and when it was installed a year and a half ago the slave cylinder and pilot bearing were all replaced, as well as the brake fluid flushed and replaced. I'm going to hold off on the drill mod for right now because my friend had a bad experience with it(he can't shift over 4k rpm's). I believe the next best thing to do to resolve the issue would be new clutch master cylinder. I'm just so sick of not being able to race because I know that it won't go into third at 6k!

Anyone have any good suggestions on which mast. cylinder to get? I also can get parts through GM for 10% over cost, should I just replace the part? Thanks

Yowzerman

Tripps, research the term 'centrifugal apply problem'. That may be the cause of your high rpm shift problem.

Tom.

tripps

iTrader: (7)

From what I've read i'm guessing that I need to shift under 6000 rpm's. I'm pretty sure that it would help me any way because the top of my power band is around 5300 rpms anyways, but that was my dyno before I had headers/full exhaust and some other things installed. After I get my new tune, I guess i can more readily determine where to shift at. I hope this fixes my problem.

If i've got this all wrong then someone let me know.

383lt1impala

iTrader: (33)

ok lets say someone is going on the freeway and the pedal gets stuck is there a way to quick fix it? when i bought my z28 the otherday i had to get a tow truck and i dont want to be doing that often.

harlesjohn

when i was starting to bleed the line for air my clutch wasnt getting any better, it got worse and i did that for about 10 min.. i did the drill mod on my gto so its nothin for me to go out there.. but should i just keep tryin? cuz it seems like its not even pumping anything threw the lines

Papermachtech

To sum it up, basically GM didn’t think things through all the way when selecting the hydraulic lines for your T56. The steel braided line that plugs into the master cylinder has a tiny, tiny hole in it, which causes unnecessary restriction.

I do not believe this was an accident. The same situation exists in the Corvettes. This was done as a inexpensive way to take some of the loading off of the running gear during hard shifts. The newest method of this is called torque control and uses software to reduce engine output during shifts (Automatics) GM is not stupid, just attempting to keep as many of the warranty dollars in their pockets as possible.
Rick

"TEN"

I have a question concerning the drill mod. I can't find anywhere a list of the years of the camaro this applies to. Would i need to do the drill mod to my '95 camaro??? Just wondering

harlesjohn

i just went under my gto looked where it lined up with all the sheet metel bends went in my gto cut the carpet drilled the hole and BAM! i was lined up just line it up bro

"TEN"

I'm sorry man, i was totally on a different subject. I was referring to the drill mod in the clutch line itself, right after the master slave. Supposedly this is supposed to make it easier to shift in high rpm's. I'm just not sure if it would apply to my '95 or not. Just don't wanna go thru the trouble of taking the master out and it not even have the restrictor in the line!!!!!!

harlesjohn

^^^^^^^^^^
sorry can't help you with that gl tho

Assman

iTrader: (2)

I'm having trouble with mine too, if I drive it hard or even spirited the clutch starts fading pretty badly or just sticks and doesn't let me shift at all. I bleed the system really good with the drill mod and it did nothing. Tonight I replaced the master and it feels a lot better, but it's still there just not as bad. I'm thinking my slave is next, i'm going to tackle that Friday. I was told that it can be done without removing the tranny, but just unbolting it and moving it back to give access. Has anyone done it like this before?

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

^^You will still have to slide the tranny back far enough for the input shaft to come out so that you can get the slave off of it. So basically, you still have to take the tranny out.