dansean1

iTrader: (2)

Ok, maybe there are similiar posts but i have little experience with clutches.
Mine 02 Z28 has 84K on it. The previous owner put in a LUK clutch. I have drag raced the car a couple times, nothing excessive or consistent, but now the clutch only engages after reaching almost the top of releasing the pedal.
What does this mean?
I used to have to push the clutch pedal in quite far but now its almost nothing.
suggestions please
Daniel

RamjamWS6

iTrader: (2)

Hydraulics perhaps

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

what do you mean?
its something thats adjustable or needs replacing? explain...
thanx

Ranger

What color is the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir and how is the fluid level compared to the min and max lines?

Ranger

1ST LS1

iTrader: (1)

I had same problem before with the stock clutch and then with my new Spec 3, I replaced all hydraulics and finally found that there is a pressure return SPRING in the clutch assembly that broke... Replaced it and car drives as good as new,nice firm pedal and has middle release point.

LS1Lust

How does the broken spring cause the engagement point to move up?

02BLK-SS

iTrader: (1)

if hydrolics looks good and fluid is fresh then this indicates your clutch is worn and shouldn't be abused. plan a clutch swap in future. i am in the same boat.

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

I dont understand, the clutch grabs, no slipping under a lot of throttle. When releaseing the pedal to engage the clutch, it literally only catches the last 1 inch of movement. it used to be about halfway and now 1 inch. Its kinda of scary.

BTW, what type of clutch fluid is recommended?

Ranger

dansean1, In post4 I asked a couple questions that are key to the diagnosis. Do you plan to respond?

Ranger

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

Sorry Ranger...I did overlook it.

I could not see any max lines but the fluid only reached about a half an inch or or lower in the reservoir. The fluid is black and dirty.
I brain farted and poured in some DOT3 brake fluid into that rubber jacket (?). I then realized what I did, emptied it into the reservoir and put it back together. I did raise the fluid level substantially but no improvement has been made; I figured that out driving to work today.

I entered the freeway today and got into the throttle about ~90%. No rev limiter was hit and the clutch held the power. I shifted nicely but fast and everything is fine.

I only need to press the clutch pedal in about 1 inch or less and the clutch disengages. It used to be just a little off the floor and I could feel the clutch start to grab.

Any ideas. Thanks again Ranger

Ranger

^^^ dansean1,

Here is what you need to do. Read this and perform the procedure exactly according to the directions. Then report back your results.

Taking Care of Your Clutch

Ranger

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

Hey Ranger.

Thanks for the link. I shall tackle this this weekend, probably Sunday when I have time post up again. Hopefully it will yield good and positive results.

Thanks again for your patience and assistance.

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

I am doing it right now, but what I don't know, if when putting the cap back on to pump the clutch, does one have to replace the rubber diaphragm with the cap or leave the rubber diaphragm off?
thanks

Ranger

Put the cap on tightly, with the diaphragm in the correct position before you pump the pedal. And be sure to clean off the diaphragm and cap before reinstalling them the first time.

Ranger

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

the first two times of pumping I had the diaphragm removed...is that bad?

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

Now the past 3 sessions though, I added the diaphragm back. Hopefully its cool. I have a mity vac if needed (if I can the proper set up)

Ranger

Omitting the diaphragm allows more airflow to the reservoir. Air contains humidity. I assume you started the process with a fresh can of brake (clutch) fluid. If so, probably little effect. I'd add the diaphragm and continue the mission.

If you're working from a partially used can that's been open for several weeks, I'd switch over to a fresh can and do at least five changes with the pumps and diaphragm installed.

That's a conservative recommendation. But one that notes you are attempting to fix an issue with the engagement.

Ranger

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I started with brand new sealed Dot3. I have done about 4 more sessions and thus I have the pedal has gotten hard and better- a completely different feel.
the fluid changes do look better and I can see thru fluid now. before it was BLACK.
I think, as you said, i caught the error and started with fresh fluid. A couple more sessions, we'll see.
Right now, the pedal feels much better. It can't be worse. Thanks for your help...much APPRECIATEd. I'll report back...back to the car.

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

Ok. I am done for the day...going to the track now at lacr.net I am hoping for the best. I'll do some more tomorrow and let you know both track results and tomorrow

Dwn Cam

Wow! This is very informative. Great Post.