z2fast8

ok got a 99 m6 ls1 and drove fine for 2 days then this morn got up to go to wrk and left the drive way and stoped at a stop sign down the road and hey the clutch woud'nt come back up been read'n for the last hour and bled and pumped the clutch for another hour still get'n dirty fluid but it still is not building any pressure at all it stays at the floor. o and when i pump the clutch i can hear some fluid rushing or something at the clutch petal is this normal or does that mean the slave or whatever that is, is shot. i am very mechanically inclined just dont know anyting about transmissions thnx any help would mean the world

ZeroFear

iTrader: (1)

I guess you read the big sticky about sticking clutch pedals, but if not you might find some good info in there. good luck.

z2fast8

yea read and learned but like i said i bled them for a long time and it never build pressure. i think its the master but dont know if its the master or the slave

z2fast8

so is there anyway to tell if its the master or slave thats gone bad or am i just retarded and not bleeding it right

SSBRONCS

did u try using a mityvac? i couldnt bleed my **** by hand needed to use a mityvac to get the pressure built up


sounds a bit perverted lol

ltdans406

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to hear about your frustrations man. First off, if both your clutch master clylinder (connects to your clutch pedal and is mounted to your firewall) and your slave cylinder (mounted to your transmission and it actuates the pressure plate) were bad, IMO, you'd see some external fluid leaks. I'm taking it that this isn't the case because you didn't mention anything about external leaks. As far as bleeding goes, I'd say that's the majority of your problem. If the problem is resolved after proper bleeding, but yet returns until bleeding again and continues in this cycle, then I'd say you have other issues as stated in the sticky on clutch pedals sticking to the floor(that's my first opinion without knowing what kind of master or slave you have on the car). Its normal to hear some fluid "slushing" sounds from your master cylinder. Although, I did find that my McLeod adjustable master cylinder carries a louder noise when pressing in on the pedal than my stock master cylinder, but it operates perfectly fine. Do you know if your car has the original master and slave or if it has been upgraded (2001-2002 type) and do you know if you have the adjustable master cylinder (can you ask the person that owned the car previously if needed)? The only real way to tell is to remove the access trim plates that are located below the steering wheel and at the base of the dash and take a look at the linkage. Its easy to tell if you have an adjustable rod end on the master cylinder linkage/rod. There are some pictures on InstallUniversity's website if you want a better idea of what to look for. The reason that I'm bringing that up is because depending on how it's adjusted, you may have to remove the retaining clip and disconnect the rod end from the clutch pedal in order to fully compress the master cylinder and allow it to fully extend which, in turn, ensures that you will get all the air out and fresh fluid in. I had the same problem with the master cylinder while trying to manually bleed it on my car. Another thought - I found out a good bit on my car when I looked up the history at the dealership by giving the service department my VIN and they in turn generated a data sheet with noted labor/tasks and parts of past problems on the car that were performed at GM dealerships. In some cases, this may help out to get idea of the cars' past if the original owner brought it in for warranty work or regular repairs.

Anyway, I think you are on the right track with starting on the bleeding process. Just make sure that you are getting full travel in your master cylinder, keep your reservoir full, and check for any leaks. My advice is - when starting with trial and error troubleshooting or process of elimination it is always easiest to start with the simple steps and ideas first because you'd be surprised how it's usually a simple problem to resolve. I hope this helps some.

z2fast8

yea try'd bleed'n all afternoon and thats just not it. i dont think its that for another reason because this just happened all of a sudden. and i can hear the fluid moveing in the master cylinder. i talked to the previous owner and he did have a new one installed about 2 thousand miles ago with a new master cylinder and clutch and all with all 01-02 stuff. i did call autozone and he did buy it not even a month ago. so i called autozone and he got the lifetime warrenty parts so i'm gonna put in a new master cylinder when it comes in on monday.

chadtx01

iTrader: (5)

Just FYI, the slave cylinder can leak and you could possibly never see it under the car. I went through numerous slaves and there was never an external leak, it all leaked into the bellhousing.

ltdans406

iTrader: (2)

Well, air in the system (due to prior improper bleeding or a leak) was my initial guess without hearing more about the car (wasn't sure how long you had the car and was under the impression that it was pre-existing because it surfaced on you in two/three days.). It's true that you may not see an external leak from your slave if it wasn't a major leak, but there is a possibility to see dampness where the bellhousing mounts to the engine because between the two bottom bellhousing-to-engine mounting bolts there is about a 2" wide by 1/4" thick recessed lip on the bellhousing which is the lowest point and, eventually, fluid will follow gravity. As far as bleeding goes, it certainly didn't hurt to flush the dirty fluid you described. I was only trying to keep it simple but...after 4 or 5 attempts of pumping and pulling back on pedal several times - holding to floor - having someone open bleeder then closing - releasing pedal - pulling back on pedal - you should get some of stiffness in the pedal, even if it isn't a full pedal... if not, remove the master cylinder linkage rod end from the pedal and actuate the master cylinder from fully the extended position to fully compressed position and if it doesn't get any harder and you are hearing what sounds like internal bypassing/relieving of fluid from the mastercylinder, then I would agree with you that the next item to look into would be the master cylinder. If you have done this and aren't getting pressurized fluid at your bleeder (or aerated fluid) and see no possible signs of a leak, then your master must be relieving internally. It's hard to believe that it's something other than your hydraulics. Hopefully a new master will bring you closer to figuring it out and you don't have to go as far as pulling your transmission to inspect or replace slave. Good luck with it, man. I'd like to hear your progress.

z2fast8

yea now i have take'n out my master in process to install the new one but autozone ordered the wrong part so i decided to try and bench bleed my master for the hell of it and i notice when i put fluid into the holder it starts leak'n out of the bottom of the master is this normal or is this obviously the problem. and how do i clean out the braided line after the drill mod and does anyone know wat size drill bit to use?

greysteel_M6

iTrader: (5)

one word, mightyvac.

ltdans406

iTrader: (2)

Where exactly does it leak from on the bottom of your master? Around the fitting... from the rubber hose... or from the housing of the master cylinder? As for the line... you'll have to pressure bleed fluid from the other direction. You'll need to attach a hand pump to the bleeder fitting on the slave and connect the stainlees braided line to the slave after you perform the drill mod. Run fluid from the bleeder out to the other end of the stainless braided line (where you performed the drill mod). I'm sure a vacuum bleeder will work too, as mentioned by others (MightyVac).