baldurann

iTrader: (15)

I am having trouble with my textralia clutch not releasing when I press in the clutch pedal, and I have bled the system time after time, and I also replaced every hyrdaulic part (slave twice, master cylinder twice, master cylinder line...) The weird thing is, the clutch was working for about a week or so with a dead clutch pedal, I figured the hydraulics were going bad (even though it was a BRAN NEW master and slave...) so I just bit the bullet until I could get a new master cylinder. Well, the day I get a new one, the car starts reeeeeally driving badly, the clutch will not release all the way, and i had a pretty difficult time getting home. The car would also stick in gear, due to the clutch not releasing. So when it went out, I bought another brand new master cylinder and replaced it, but the clutch still will not release. The clutch pedal feel when the car is turned off is nice and stiff, and everythign seems to be in working order, but as soon as I turn the car on, the pedal feel gets a little soft and the car will not go into gear (like I'm trying to put the car into gear without the clutch released.) So now I am clueless... the car was at least working for about a week, and now the clutch will not release at all... help!!

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Well bolts backing out might do this. You may have to go in there and check your bolts. Did you use red loctite or at least blue on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts?Did you use a torque wrench to tighen them up?
Hydraulics are pretty simple. If its bled right and you have newer hydraulics should be fine. I have no problems getting into gear at all with my twin disc at 800 miles. I used red loctite and torque wrench. Are you losing fluid? If not then the hydraulics should be ok if bled riight.

baldurann

iTrader: (15)

The bolts were all torqued down to spec, using red loctite. I keep getting some murkiness in the resivoir, so I'm going to try bleeding the system again completely from the bleeder valve, hopefully that will help some. I just really hope I don't have to tear it down again... going to be the third time in one month! heheh

BADBLUE02

iTrader: (18)

I'm interested in an answer to this too. I'm having the exact same problem, but with a Centerforce clutch.

Pwebbz28

iTrader: (31)

Another thing you need to look for is your headers burning the fluid in the line. Some heat wrap is a must on the line if you ask me.

purdueranger

iTrader: (11)

heat wrap helps and I also changed the way i bleed my clutches now. I did have the textralia release problem. I now open the screw, push in clutch, close screw, and then release the clutch. This took away my release problems from 6000k on up and the release is right up top and consistant, it isn't all over the place how it used to be.

99WS7

iTrader: (13)

huh, so you bled it that way and it worked. My buddie was telling me about that way to bleed it. He is have the same prob and has a knock off text. I too am having a disengagement problem with my text. It releases way close to the floor and makes it a bitch to drive out of first. I know its not disengaging all the way casue I put it in first with the clutch all the way in and reved the motor, around 5k it will pull the car fwd a little. I really hope mine is a hydro prob cause I dont want to drop the tranny to check those bolts...and I torqued mine to text specs, made sure everything was super clean, used red loctite, new slave and throw out bearing. Im gonna try the method above for bleeding it to see what that does. I already bled it about 3 weeks ago and my pedal came up and felt good but it dropped back down after a few days so to me that says it has to be a hydro prob, either air that Im still not getting out or something is leaking some how, Im not loosing fluid so who knows...I hope its just a master.