98mysticZ

iTrader: (11)

its called new clutch everyone told me it was hydrolics and it wasnt put in an exedy hyper single and its all gone found out i warped the clutch disc and the pressure plate was weak.. i like this clutch but it does have a stiff pedal

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

Finally I have a believer!! No one believes me when I say the stock clutch is shitty. The fingers on the stock clutch don't like to spin past 5500.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

What about 01-02's with the ZO6 clutch?

98mysticZ

iTrader: (11)

i had the "z06" clutch with a fidanza aluminum flywheel.. and the clutch was fine but the pressure plate is weak.. the stock clutch is crap even the z06 one is crap so get an aftermarket

5550racing

I know. There is a stickyed write up about how to bleed the clutch but most of the time it's not going to help any. For a few people I know (and myself) it didn't help any. For some people it may work. Hell I don't know.

98mysticZ

iTrader: (11)

every time some one came out with a "new" way to bleed the clutch i would try it... nuthing worked and everyone kept tellin me it was hydrolics.. and i just wasnt ok with that... i mean i could push the clutch pedal in and rev it up and the pedal would stick to the floor.. and the pedal didnt start doing it till after i had my rev limiter raised to 6800......

JonB

iTrader: (3)

The unfortunate problem is theres no proof, some say new hydralics fix the problem and some say a new clutch fixes it. A new clutch worked for you but a new master or slave has worked for others sometimes even just bleeding the system has worked for others. The bad part is most people replace there clutch when they do there slave so there's no way to tell if it was the clutch or the slave. In your case you did't replace the slave so it was indeed the clutch. I wish I had the time and money to go ahead and just do a clutch and see if my pedal problem went away to rule out the slave and if it did't go back and replace the slave and see it that fixes it. This problem is not just in f-bodies either its in many other gm manual tranny cars such as vette's, sky, soltice, saturn(whatever there perforance one is) and i'm sure there others. I wish once and for all someone would do some testing(gm or some car mag) taking two dozen cars with the sticking clutch problem and try a new clutch first then master then slave to find the true problem.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

I am GM Tech and remember reading the bulletin about this. I personally have never worked on a car with this problem(I work for Pontiac/Cadillac, not many T56's come in) but this is what is posted. This may be a repost but I figured I would post it. I got this off a CTS-V Manual, I am sure it would apply to any other T56 car.

Condition
Some customers may comment that while shifting at engine speeds greater then 6000 RPMs, the clutch pedal does not return to the up position. As the engine speed decreases, the clutch pedal will return to the up position.

Cause
It is possible that when the engine speed is greater than 6000 RPM and the clutch pedal is depressed, centrifugal loads on the clutch diaphragm spring may be greater than the clutch return load from the diaphragm spring. This force created by RPM would be directionally opposite to the clutch bearing force, causing a near net zero or less than zero return force. As a consequence, the clutch pedal may be stuck at the bottom of travel at the floor. Once the engine speed reduces to less than 6000 RPM, spring return load dominates and the clutch pedal returns to normal function.

Correction
Inspect the clutch date code and replace the clutch kit if built PRIOR to the following date code:

• 4M21A/B/C for CTS-V and SSR

• 4M13A/B/C for Corvette





Remove the transmission to inspect the date code on the clutch pressure plate (4). Refer to the applicable procedure below:
• Corvette -- Clutch Assembly Replacement (SI Document ID #1399532)

• CTS-V -- Clutch Assembly Replacement (CTS-V) (Document ID #1453054)

• SSR -- Clutch Assembly Replacement (SI Document ID #1581481)





Important:

The suspect clutches were built PRIOR to the following date codes:
• 4M21A/B/C for CTS-V and SSR

• 4M13A/B/C for Corvette


The date code is located on the pressure plate cover as shown above.
Replace the clutch kit (see part list below) if the date code on the pressure plate is PRIOR to the following date code:
• 4M21A/B/C for CTS-V and SSR

• 4M13A/B/C for Corvette

The date codes are interpreted as follows:
• The first character is the year.

- 4 = 2004

- 5 = 2005

• The second character is the build month.


Important: The letter J is not used in the month code.


- January = A

- February = B

- March = C

- April = D

- May = E

- June = F

- July = G

- August = H

- September = I

- October = K

- November = L

- December =M

• The third character is the day of the month.


Important: It is possible that the fourth digit, the shift code, may not be present on the date code. The shift code does not play a critical part in determining a suspect clutch kit.


• The fourth, and final, character is the shift code = A/B/C.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

12581713
Plate Asm, CLU Press & DRVN (W/CVR)

(CTS-V and SSR)
1

24233084
Plate Asm, CLU Press & DRVN (W/CVR)

(Corvette)
1

98mysticZ

iTrader: (11)

hell yes thats what i am talkin about... i replaced everything bout 15k miles ago slave master (02 stuff w drill mod) and clutch.. and really didnt have any problems then changed my rev limiter and then the problem arose... pulled the clutch out and the clutch is actually fine plenty of meat left no slipping... installed the exedy and now my problems gone and my pedal is how it is supposed to be..

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, this bulletin was printed out and posted on the front board at my job awhile ago. I knew I had read about this problem somewhere.

JonB

iTrader: (3)

Wow thanks for the info on that bulletin. Heres one that gm released about the fluid/hydrolics again gm is only making this harder to determine what the real cause is. So its safe to say we can't count on gm telling us what really causes it because it appears they don't know.

Originally Posted by Ken Fichtner;1561070929
Document ID# 1982105

Subject: Intermittent Spongy Clutch Pedal Sticking To The Floor During Hard Acceleration And High RPM Shifts - keywords contaminate fluid hydraulic #PIP4145 - (06/04/2007)

Models: 2005-2007 Chevrolet Corvette, Corvette Z06 Equipped with a Tremec 6-speed Transmission RPO MM6, MZ6

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment about an intermittent spongy clutch pedal feel or clutch pedal sticking to the floor. This may be aggravated by aggressive driving and high clutch operating temperatures. Higher than expected levels of water in the clutch fluid greater than 2% may cause the clutch fluid to boil. The presence of water in the fluid lowers the boiling point significantly; when these conditions are present the driver may lose customary clutch pedal feel and performance.

Recommendation/Instructions:
If the above condition is intermittent flush the hydraulic system using DOT 4 fluid part number 88958860 (88901244 in Canada), prior to replacement of any mechanical or hydraulic components.

To eliminate the opportunity for moisture to enter the clutch hydraulic system.

The clutch fluid level inspection should be a VISUAL inspection only. Look through the transparent reservoir and observe the fluid level. Avoid removing the cap. Do not remove the cap just to top-off clutch fluid. Leave the system closed and sealed. During PDI inspection or routine servicing the cap should not be opened for just an inspection.
DOT 4 clutch fluid has a 2 week shelf life. Do not use fluid if container opening date is unknown or older than 2 weeks. Do not mix or re-use old fluid. Current service information already covers the issue of reuse.
To provide the best clutch operation, it is recommended that the owner change the clutch fluid every 2 calendar years. Please flush and replace the clutch fluid with P/N 88958860 (88901244 in Canada) or equivalent DOT 4.
The current service information and owners manual will be updated to reflect this information.

Note: If the concern is not intermittent, inspect clutch hydraulic system for leaks and repair as necessary after repairs are completed flush system with DOT 4 fluid part number 88958860 (88901244 in Canada).

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

5550racing

Here are my thoughts:

In my situation I can rev the motor and the clutch will stick to the floor. Only with the clutch pushed in will it stick... Which makes the post by Grifter more reasonable.
The one about the heat build up doesn't apply to me.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

A new clutch fixes mine. I listend to everyone saying replace the hydrolics to, once. Fixed it with a new clutch and have'nt touched the hydrolics for three clutches later. Pressure plates are week for these cars, even the aftermarket ones go away in about 20-25,000 miles.