Weird problem after clutch install HELP!
11-07-2007, 12:48 AM
#1
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Weird problem after clutch install HELP! Hey guys we just got finished putting a new clutch in my buddies 98 Z28- A spec stage 1(I know crappy clutch, he's just trying to get it running again to sell it), and I cant figure out whats going on. After getting the car back together when spent probably 30 min bleeding the clutch. Took it out for a drive, and you could not put the car in gear without it trying to take off or stalling, even with the clutch mashed to the floor.
We figured it needed more bleeding. We then spent probably an hour and a half bleeding it. And barely noticed a difference in the pedal. There is still about 1-2 inches at the top of the pedal with no pressure at all, about half way down it starts to feel stiffer, and doesnt engage until pretty much right off the floor. We have used about 2 bottles of dot 3 bleeding this thing, with no gain in pedal pressure or engagement point. After all the bleeding, we took it for another drive. Seemed to feel alittle better at first, we were even able to downshift 3-2, but after the car reached op. temp it was either stalling or trying to take off even with the clutch mashed to the floor.
There cannot possibly be any air buddles left in the line. Fresh fluid is coming out every time we crack the bleeder. Anybody have any ideas? Im thinking it might be the master cylinder.
Slave cylinder and T/O bearing were replacing about 2,000 miles ago when the trans was rebuilt. Thanks in advanced for any help or ideas!
We figured it needed more bleeding. We then spent probably an hour and a half bleeding it. And barely noticed a difference in the pedal. There is still about 1-2 inches at the top of the pedal with no pressure at all, about half way down it starts to feel stiffer, and doesnt engage until pretty much right off the floor. We have used about 2 bottles of dot 3 bleeding this thing, with no gain in pedal pressure or engagement point. After all the bleeding, we took it for another drive. Seemed to feel alittle better at first, we were even able to downshift 3-2, but after the car reached op. temp it was either stalling or trying to take off even with the clutch mashed to the floor.
There cannot possibly be any air buddles left in the line. Fresh fluid is coming out every time we crack the bleeder. Anybody have any ideas? Im thinking it might be the master cylinder.
Slave cylinder and T/O bearing were replacing about 2,000 miles ago when the trans was rebuilt. Thanks in advanced for any help or ideas!
thanks man.
11-07-2007, 01:03 PM
#5
if it gets worse as the car warms up, there's air in the line. There's also a chance that the hydraulic line is too close to the exhaust as well.
Bleed it.
Make sure reservoir is full, pump clutch 30 times hard and fast, hold clutch down, crack bleeder, close bleeder, release clutch. Check fluid level in reservoir and repeat. Should take a bottle to bleed it out good.
I think spec clutches need a shim as well... did you install one?
Bleed it.
Make sure reservoir is full, pump clutch 30 times hard and fast, hold clutch down, crack bleeder, close bleeder, release clutch. Check fluid level in reservoir and repeat. Should take a bottle to bleed it out good.
I think spec clutches need a shim as well... did you install one?
11-07-2007, 01:17 PM
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Yes, i installed the shim. And I have bleed clutches many times, using that procedure. And like posted above, we have already gone through about 2 bottles of fluid.
11-08-2007, 08:59 AM
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Sounds like either the slave or the master too a **** on you. I had this same problem after installing a new clutch a few years ago and it ended up being my master.
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11-08-2007, 11:39 AM
#8
Assuming that the shim is installed, as you mention, and that you installed everyhting else correctly...including the proper torqueing of all the bolts then this really is likely hydraulic. Did you use the new TOB that came with the kit? Have the hydraulics been replace previously? Let me know and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
11-08-2007, 09:35 PM
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get down on the floor board and as your pushing on the clutch peddle listen to what the fluid sounds like, if u hear the fluid then you have air in there. u will need to bleed it on the bench, hen re-install and bleed the system again. dont ask how I know about this............ only took me about 4 hours to bleed the whole system..................
11-10-2007, 12:42 AM
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well Ive already tried everything listed above. And yes everything is torqued correctly. This is about the 5th or 6th clutch ive done on an LS1 haha. Anyway, we ended up getting an updated master which arrived today. I guess we will try that first. Hopefully that takes care of the problem. We are doing this on our backs with jackstands and hand tools, and i really dont wanna pull the trans again. Ill keep everyone posted. Thanks for the replys!