Just installed LS7 Clutch & Flywheel have a question
12-01-2007, 09:11 PM
#1
Launching!
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Just installed LS7 Clutch & Flywheel have a question Just installed an LS7 clutch and LS2 flywheel. New slave cylinder. Bleed the clutch from the side of the slave. When i close up the Slave and try to let the clutch pedal back up, it wont come up by itself. Until i pump the pedal a few times and then it starts to get stiffer and feel like its back to normal.
My new setup engages RIGHT off the floorboard. As soon as i letup off the pedal the clutch will engage and lunges the car forward and stalls out. Definetly not drivable the way it is. I installed the Slave WITHOUT the SHIM that i used to have with my spec stage 3. Any suggestions on whats wrong with my setup. Does it need to be bled more? Is there still air in the system ?
My new setup engages RIGHT off the floorboard. As soon as i letup off the pedal the clutch will engage and lunges the car forward and stalls out. Definetly not drivable the way it is. I installed the Slave WITHOUT the SHIM that i used to have with my spec stage 3. Any suggestions on whats wrong with my setup. Does it need to be bled more? Is there still air in the system ?
12-01-2007, 11:39 PM
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Launching!
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I bled alot of fluid through it today. Enough to where the fluid was streaming out of the small gap between the bottom of the transmission and bell housing. Ill keep bleeding again tomorrow. I have a mightyvac also, but i didnt use it today. I just bleed the system through the slave. Ill take the mightyvac to it tomorrow.
Thanks for the replys
Thanks for the replys
12-02-2007, 11:29 AM
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Launching!
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Did you guys bleed it through the slave or use a mightyvac ?
I think im going to try and use the mightyvac, although i had a question. When using the mightyvac, do i need to have the pedal pushed in to the floor and then start pumping the mightyvac from the reservoir? Or can the peddal be up all the way and i can pump the mightyvac to take the air out of the system ? Whats the difference, which way works better ?
After im done using the mightyvac, should i still open up the slave bleed valve and run the fluid all the way back through, or is this not needed ?
I think im going to try and use the mightyvac, although i had a question. When using the mightyvac, do i need to have the pedal pushed in to the floor and then start pumping the mightyvac from the reservoir? Or can the peddal be up all the way and i can pump the mightyvac to take the air out of the system ? Whats the difference, which way works better ?
After im done using the mightyvac, should i still open up the slave bleed valve and run the fluid all the way back through, or is this not needed ?
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12-02-2007, 11:46 AM
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I just bled through the slave.
This is just a thought but how far off the floor is you peddle engaging? During the break in period it is supposed to engage right off the floor. After it gets broken in i think it comes up to a little less than half way up.
All you need to know about the LS7
This is just a thought but how far off the floor is you peddle engaging? During the break in period it is supposed to engage right off the floor. After it gets broken in i think it comes up to a little less than half way up.
All you need to know about the LS7
12-02-2007, 12:00 PM
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Launching!
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I just bled through the slave.
This is just a thought but how far off the floor is you peddle engaging? During the break in period it is supposed to engage right off the floor. After it gets broken in i think it comes up to a little less than half way up.
All you need to know about the LS7
This is just a thought but how far off the floor is you peddle engaging? During the break in period it is supposed to engage right off the floor. After it gets broken in i think it comes up to a little less than half way up.
All you need to know about the LS7
Mine engages RIGHT off the floor. It goes from 0% engaged when the peddal is all the way down. When you try to release it ever so slightly the car lunges forward like i just dropped the clutch 100% engagement. There is no way i can drive it to even try and break it in. I would need alittle more flexibility then what i have now to be able to even try and drive it because all it does is lung and stalls, cant save it by pushing back in the peddal.
12-02-2007, 03:20 PM
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update,
Blead the clutch with the mightyvac for alittle over an hour. I didnt get too much air bubbles out of the lines. Went on a test drive the car felt very slightly better, i mean drivable but the clutch still engages right off the floor. By engages i mean it its ready to move, damn near stalls out. Came back and did the mightyvac for another hour. Didnt pull anymore air bubbles our of the lines, so im thinkin its good to go. Maybe it needs to get broken in and it will start to engage higher up. I hope
Blead the clutch with the mightyvac for alittle over an hour. I didnt get too much air bubbles out of the lines. Went on a test drive the car felt very slightly better, i mean drivable but the clutch still engages right off the floor. By engages i mean it its ready to move, damn near stalls out. Came back and did the mightyvac for another hour. Didnt pull anymore air bubbles our of the lines, so im thinkin its good to go. Maybe it needs to get broken in and it will start to engage higher up. I hope
12-02-2007, 03:39 PM
#12
On a side note, just to see what would happen I revved it to 5k and dumpped the clutch in 3rd doing about 55MPH. Smoked the tires.
I wouldn't normally do something like that to my car, but I was curious how much better it was than the stock peice of crap clutch I had before. 
12-04-2007, 10:09 AM
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Like others have said, my LS7 clutch engaged right off the floor. It wasn't TOO touchy but definately different than my Spec 3+ that released right at the very top.
250-300 miles of stop and go, making sure to downshift and continue to engage and disengage the clutch as much as possible. Hell, you can even go find a big empty parking lot and do some take offs 1st through 3rd and then upshift from 3rd to 2nd to 1st and come to a complete stop. Then rinse and repeat
As far as bleeding the system goes, the tried and true slave bleeder route so far has been the best for me. I recommend the LPP (sponsor) bleeder. Top notch quality and great customer service!
250-300 miles of stop and go, making sure to downshift and continue to engage and disengage the clutch as much as possible. Hell, you can even go find a big empty parking lot and do some take offs 1st through 3rd and then upshift from 3rd to 2nd to 1st and come to a complete stop. Then rinse and repeat
As far as bleeding the system goes, the tried and true slave bleeder route so far has been the best for me. I recommend the LPP (sponsor) bleeder. Top notch quality and great customer service!
12-04-2007, 11:05 AM
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Yep, when I installed mine, it was the same way, engaged right off the floor. It goes away pretty quickly when you drive it some. I'd say mine was pretty much normal within 100 miles. Couldn't be happier with it now though.
On a side note, just to see what would happen I revved it to 5k and dumpped the clutch in 3rd doing about 55MPH. Smoked the tires. I wouldn't normally do something like that to my car, but I was curious how much better it was than the stock peice of crap clutch I had before.
On a side note, just to see what would happen I revved it to 5k and dumpped the clutch in 3rd doing about 55MPH. Smoked the tires.
I wouldn't normally do something like that to my car, but I was curious how much better it was than the stock peice of crap clutch I had before.I don wanna hijack this thread and change subj
ect
12-04-2007, 01:59 PM
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Thats weird; mine did not engage off the floor but about 1/3 up.
I replaced both the slave ad master; the master was bench blead from GM, however.
I beleive the hydrolics are responsible for more than half of all bad clutches. In the olden days we had cable-driven forks which were very reliable and adjustible too.
I replaced both the slave ad master; the master was bench blead from GM, however.
I beleive the hydrolics are responsible for more than half of all bad clutches. In the olden days we had cable-driven forks which were very reliable and adjustible too.
12-04-2007, 02:59 PM
#18
Mine engaged low to the floor when It was new in the car. The longer I drove, the more normal it got for me. I think within 30 miles or so it was back to normal around mid pedal travel. But I did look like a fool for a bit when it would lunge the car like that. Hope yours got back to normal for ya.
12-04-2007, 11:39 PM
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update,
I've put about 80 miles of stop and go and freeway miles going 80+ mph. I tryed driving in every gear shifting up and down. No dropping the clutch, or anything higher then 3.8k rpms. The clutch seems to be very slowly easying up. But still VERY close to the floor and extremly sensative. I mean im lunging the car around when it comes to taking off from lights, or trying to park. Will see how it turns out in a few hundred more miles.
Thanks for the replys
I've put about 80 miles of stop and go and freeway miles going 80+ mph. I tryed driving in every gear shifting up and down. No dropping the clutch, or anything higher then 3.8k rpms. The clutch seems to be very slowly easying up. But still VERY close to the floor and extremly sensative. I mean im lunging the car around when it comes to taking off from lights, or trying to park. Will see how it turns out in a few hundred more miles.
Thanks for the replys