CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

wanting to see how many guys were using one of the RPS clutches in their f-bodys. what do yall think? any dislikes?? been thinking of going with one for my 02 SS.

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

upupup

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Twin friction disk here, 2500 lb pressure plate. I was coming from a Ram Powergrip going to this...the first thing I noticed is that the pedal pressure was lighter than the Ram, but definitely not as light as the stocker or LS7 (I've not owned the LS7, but have installed/driven one). That was a plus for me, as my car was used as my daily driver until this past summer when I finally got a beater.

Engagement is smooth, but can chatter at times if you aren't careful...it can be driven around though with good enough footwork. Starting from a standstill is the most challenging thing about this particular clutch to me since it weighed in at 37 lbs versus the Ram/Billet Steel flywheel that weighed in at 58 lbs. It just takes more gas to get it moving...and by more gas, I'm talking about an extra 200 RPMs or so over what it would have taken to get the stock clutch to move.

It has held everything I've thrown at it, which isn't much, so I can't comment on its durability under harsh conditions. My car dynoed once upon a time at 340RWHP/356RWTQ, and hasn't strayed much from that configuration power-wise. It has never been on anything other than street radials, and has seen at most some 3000 RPM "launches" on the street.

My car has been under the knife for a while, and now has some 4.11s in the back with a new 12-bolt, so that should make getting off the line at a light a little easier. Unfortunately, the weather around here hasn't been great, and I'm still missing a couple of brake lines, so my car won't be going out any time soon. Some drag radials will most likely be next (probably some BFGs in a 295/35/18), and engine work within a few years. I don't expect it to hold my power goals in the future, but might give it a shot anyways just to see if it will.

bigsticksupra

iTrader: (3)

I have the chromoly RPS twin disc carbon fiber clutch in my Supra and i would say it drives pretty good. I also have a McLeod street twin in my SS and in my opinion, the McLeod is more streetable. The RPS twin in the Supra is a bit grabby and the pedal pressure is a little higher than the McLeod street twin in a f-body. Although when you do high rpm 'slip' type launches on the McLeod, you can smell the clutch. The RPS twin carbon fiber clutch loves being slipped, the hotter it gets, the harder it grabs. The RPS twin will take 1200 hp and i believe the McLeod will take 1000. Both are great cluthes, but in my opinion, the McLeod is a better deal considering its $1400 vs the $2800 i paid for the RPS.

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

anyone else?

lunarx

iTrader: (6)

I just installed the newly released RPS Street-Twin in my car, after the Luk Pro-Gold gave out.

Street-Twin clutch has Dual Twin-Friction Disks (Carbon/Organic).

It is very smooth and slips nicely on take off.
No chatter at all.

Pedal efort is only slightly more than an LS7 but way lighter than an ExoSkel.
It is holding my 497WTQ fine and shifts beautifull at high RPM.

You will hear a little disk clatter when stopped, in neutral with the clutch engaged, but it's not that bad (for a twin disk).

It's an amazing clutch, but it does cost about twice what an ExoSkel does.
It was worth it for me, as I wanted a civilized clutch that could hold my WTQ in a heavy car.
I am extremely happy with it.

The Street Twin clutch is not listed on any websites yet but can be purchased from theLAPD or CarolinaClutch.

theLAPD (where I bought mine) works closely with RPS, as they are both in Chatsworth CA.

I also found Rob from RPS to be a very nice guy, who will awnser all questions and stands behind his products.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

That's a big pimpin clutch right there...very nice.

pushinfreight

Get a mcleod if you are going to drive it on the street. I had an RPS clutch a while back and it made 3 1/8 miles pass before it gave up the ghost at 4500 rpm dumps. Car was heads and cam back then making 402 ft/lb.

lunarx

iTrader: (6)

Which RPS clutch did you have?
Was it a twin disk or single disk?
Was it full carbon or carbon/organic?

Just saying you han an RPS is like saying you had a GM car.
Ditto for a mcleod, which one?

I was warned away from the mcleod Street Twin, but I am dying to get a real review on it.
It would have been 1/2 the cost of my RPS Street Twin.

bigsticksupra

iTrader: (3)

what were you warned about on the mcleod clutch? I have both clutches, given that the rps pro carbon/carbon i have is for my supra, but both have been great to me. the guy who had this rps fail probably had the entry level clutch/upgraded stock replacement. people have been over 1000rwhp with both clutches. here is a pic of my rps and mcleod..as you can see the rps is carbon on ALL wear surfaces, front and back.

lunarx

iTrader: (6)

I was warned that the Mcleod would be very on/off and difficult to drive on the street.

I see you have the Borg & Beck version (that I was considering), how is it's drivability?


Your all Carbon Twin RPS is the classic and even more expensive version (than my Street Twin).

I'm sure it can really take some abuse at the track.
How does it drive on the street?

bigsticksupra

iTrader: (3)

The Mcleod uses their own style pressure plate called the Borg & Beck LONG style. a variation of the original borg & beck and ford long style pressure plates. I believe this is the only style available for gm vehicles when using the street twin. In my opinion, the mcleod is nothing like an on/off switch. I have the heavier billet steel flywheel so the weight is close to the stock clutch assembly. It's really slippable and aside from having a slightly heavier clutch pedal, it drives a little rougher than stock. The RPS on the other hand is much closer to an on/off switch. It's loud, rattles, and makings noise when you engage. This is also with the heavier chromoly flywheel. given that it is on a Supra, i would say it would be the same on any other car. If you are ever in nor-cal, hit me up and you can take a spin in my camaro with the mcleod.

lunarx

iTrader: (6)

It would be cool to try the mcleod Street Twin.
I was so close to getting it, but my shop gives a 1 year warranty on the RPS clutches, so I figured I would give the new RPS Street Twin a try instead.

Your description of the RPS Full-Carbon Twin is consistent with what I heard.
The Street Twin was an attempt to tame it down.
I believe it worked.

It really would be interesting to compare the mcleod and RPS Street Twins.
If you ever find yourself in SoCal, I'd like to get your opinion after a test drive.

pushinfreight

It was a single disk rated for 700hp, rps swore up and down this would work. It was not the carbon as it would not have been street friendly. I sent the clutch plate material back to them in two spark plug boxes.

How many people buy a single disk mcleod? The street twin is what you want. The right setup for a 600rw is the mcleod street twin with an adj master and external bleeder. We have seen this combo run time and time again and it works. RPS has just not worked for several people here locally. We have even tried one of there carbon carbon setup for a twin turbo mustang that made about 1k rw and once again they swore up and down it would work. Well after 6 months of geting the right parts from them no luck. So we have had a hydrolic setup and a cable clutch setup not work with them. The bottom line is this, if you are going to use a sticky tire and have the rear that can take it a single disk will not get it done.

lunarx

iTrader: (6)

Pushinfreight, Thanks for the clarification.
I also agree, at those power levels a Twin Disk is required.

RPS did tell me that their single would have difficulty surviving, for any length of time (with my weight & RWTQ).

Did you have better luck with the RPS Twins (vs the singles).

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I used a RPS single with aluminum flywheel in my Vette. Peddle pressure was stiff and the clutch never held my 500rwhp.Did a 800 mile break in then clutch clutch would not hold the power at all. Tried to deal with Carolina clutch and they gave me the run around. We'll never buy another one.

pushinfreight

Actually once that clutch went I put a spec 5 in which did not work well on the street either. Then car was down for a motor upgrade so I actually have the ls7/ls2 combo in it now but no real stickey tires. I am making 500 rw on motor and it has held so far with a 100 shot but that does haze the tires hard. I will be putting a mcleod twin in next as that has seemed to work the best for 600-700 rwtq with the local cars at that power level. If it will hold for a year before I need new clutch plates then I am ok. If it does not hold then I may just go with a turbo 350 and spray the car harder. I love rowing the gears but the thought of dropping 2500-3000 for a carbon/carbon that is a bitch to drive on the street is not appealing at all.

lunarx

iTrader: (6)

The new ZR1 is supposed to be getting a Twin Disk.
I wonder if it would work in our cars as a future option.

Since it's factory provided, it should be designed for longevity and civility.
Who knows what it would cost though.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I've wondered this as well, but I think I read that the crankshaft is going to use a 9-bolt flange instead of the LS-standard 6-bolt flange for the flywheel to bolt up. That would make it a no-go GMPP would make a killing if they made this same type of clutch for us 6-bolt crank guys...seems like that is the largest shortcoming with these cars at higher power levels. The aftermarket is just so hit and miss...you either get all the holding power you need at the expense of a heavy pedal/chattering, you get a nice driving clutch that can't hold the power, or you pay an *** load and actually get one that works.