105

iTrader: (7)

I'm finally getting around to having a new clutch installed and the guy at the shop I go to recommended a spec stage 4 rather than the tex. He said he's never actually used the 0z700 but he's heard people having trouble with the Exo-skel. He also said if I did want the 0z700 he has a used one with 200 miles on it for $400. I'll have to buy a new flywheel. The guy who used it before used it with the stock flywheel and got rid of it because he plans on making 1000 hp. What do you guys think? New spec 4, Used Tex w/new flywheel, New Tex w/ flywheel?
This is going to be a nitrous and cam car. 9", DS, and TA already in progress.

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

I hear nothing but great things about the Tex and their customer service, but haven't had great experiences with the Spec 2, 3 or their customer service. My new Tex is sitting in my room and going in this weekend.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

105, What kind of power are you planning to make and what kind of drivability are you looking for? Let me know and I will be happy to assist you with a more specific recommendation. Thanks!

105

iTrader: (7)

I'm looking to make 500-600 to the wheels with cam only and nitrous. I'm shooting for a mid 10 second car. I would like drivability on the street. Right now I am leaning more towards a Tex.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

With a max of 600lb.-ft I would suggest our stage 3+ which is more than enough for this power level but will still provide great drivability and durability should you decide to go for more power in the future. It will handle plenty of abuse and lots of folks on the forums can attest to this. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!!

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

SPEC-01,

I always thought that the 600lb.-ft rating was at the flywheel and not the rear wheels? I would imagine with his setup, he's going to be putting 500-600 to the rear wheels. Even at the 500 rear wheel minimum, assuming 15% drivetrain loss, that's putting him right up to the limit if it's a flywheel rating and wouldn't make sense if he's putting down any more than that, which is very likely. Am I misunderstanding the ratings on these? I was always curious as to the real limits on these clutches compared to their ratings. Any clarification you have would help. Thanks.

Tsaroth

the spec stage 3+ is rated to 850 so 600 at the rear wheel or the flywheel wouldn't matter

105

iTrader: (7)

I just decided on the Spec Stage 4 Monday. Its ordered and on the way with 9" Truetrac 4.11 gears, c/m driveshaft, BMR extreme rear sway and Track Pack tq arm, and pro 5.0 shifter. I'm gonna use the stock flywheel.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

All of our units are rated at the crank. They are also rated a bit conservatively but we want to make sure folks realize that capacity can be effected by a number of factors...the most obvious would be making sure that the contact surface of the flywheel is flat and that the unit is broken-in properly.

To take this a step further:
850ft-lbs at the crank will be approximately 722ft.-lbs at the wheels (factoring a 15% loss to the drivetrain). I know this is more than he is planning to make...but my experience with most LS guys is that their current power output is never enough...and most of them find that they "need/want" more power eventually. I would much rather over-clutch a car than under-clutch a car...as it leaves room for increased power in the future.

If he were to choose a stage 3 (which is rated to 680ft.-lbs at the crank/578ft.-lbs at the wheels) and he actually made 600ft.-lbs at the wheels he would technically be overpowering the clutch kit from the beginning. Once more power was added he could find himself overpowering the unit...and as you all know no one likes it when that happens.

Let me know if you all have any further questions. Thanks!

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

rated at 722 to teh wheels...

doesnt 1st gear a 2.66 ratio mean it makes much more torque in 1st gear than the torque in 4th gear 1:1?

cncbird

iTrader: (3)

why would you use a stage 4 clutch,c/m driveshaft,track pack suspension,etc and use a stock flywheel?

105

iTrader: (7)

For the track a heavier flywheel is much easier to launch. At least thats what I've been told. You might gain a little from the lighter flywheel, like 1 mph or a half a car length. But also I don't see what all my other parts have to do with my choice in flywheel.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Well thats because drag racing isnt everything...

myws61

iTrader: (1)

Ive got the spec 3+ and it is great for DD, and works even better when Im wot, I make on motor 500/500 and on bottle low 700's.


My Ws6 650whp+ Trans am NX150 shot Vs. Gsxr 750, G

cncbird

iTrader: (3)

Have you ever seen the damage a stock flywheel does when it blows up?If

you're getting all those other high dollar parts at least get an sfi flywheel!

105

iTrader: (7)

I do see your point there. The guy I have installing my clutch for me is very experienced with LS1's, if he suspects anythings wrong with my stocker when he takes it out I'll go steel.

How much does the spec steel flywheel weigh anyway.

myws61

iTrader: (1)

hmmm, spec-01 might want to answer this one. I know my flywheel and clutch combined are 57lbs. But I would with out a doubt by a new flywheel. Your spending a lot of money on a top of the line clutch, do it the right way, so there are NO problems down the road.

WhiplashDVD

iTrader: (1)

I have the spec 4 and hate it. It has just over stock feel but grabs violently. I have had other 6 pucks in non-v8 cars and they were ok to drive with, but this is a different animal. There in only 2 settings on and off. I have driven 2 cars with the 3+ and love them. They have just the right balance for a street/strip clutch. If i could do it over again that would be my purchase.

Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

i run the spec alum fw and have had it in the car for 3 yrs now. i drag race alot and DD the car, i cut high 1.4 60's i love the fw. my clutch is going out the door and im looking into the spec twin. and the spec alum fws are sfi approved btw

-brandon