Going from A4 to a 6sp Questions?
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Going from A4 to a 6sp Questions?
Hey guys, I`ve been running a built A4 for along time. I don`t take the car to the track much at all. Thinking of going to a 6sp now. Car in sig. What all would I have to do and what would be the cost? I`ve got a freshly built Stage 3 from century right now in her. Built to take the power I make. Tell me your thoughts and even if I should go that direction. Some pro`s and con`s. Thanks!
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Hey guys, I`ve been running a built A4 for along time. I don`t take the car to the track much at all. Thinking of going to a 6sp now. Car in sig. What all would I have to do and what would be the cost? I`ve got a freshly built Stage 3 from century right now in her. Built to take the power I make. Tell me your thoughts and even if I should go that direction. Some pro`s and con`s. Thanks!
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Price will ultimately depend on what kind of deals you can find, so it's really a moot point to guess. I got lucky and found someone to trade setups with, so it just cost me shipping. Most "kits" that give you everything you need to go M6 (crossmember, pedals, trans, etc) usually hover around $1500-2000, obviously dependent on what you're getting and it's condition. Based on what I found from my swap, I'd probably budget at least $3500 for everything. How close or far away you get to that number is anyone's guess. You'll probably recoup most of the cost by selling the current built A4 setup you've got as well.
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#8
You can do it cheaper, but figure:
$2000-stage 4 T56 from 6speedsinc, no core required
$900- a decent clutch/flywheel
$220- new GM hydraulics
$75 - pedals
$50 - manual crossmember
$200 - manual engine harness
$30 - torque arm mount
$70 - upper console
$20 - lower shift boot
$40 - ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts
$(150)? - tranny sensors (reverse lockout solenoid is 90 itself)+VSS+reverse switch
So about 4k.
But then you can sell your built A4 stuff to make some money back
$2000-stage 4 T56 from 6speedsinc, no core required
$900- a decent clutch/flywheel
$220- new GM hydraulics
$75 - pedals
$50 - manual crossmember
$200 - manual engine harness
$30 - torque arm mount
$70 - upper console
$20 - lower shift boot
$40 - ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts
$(150)? - tranny sensors (reverse lockout solenoid is 90 itself)+VSS+reverse switch
So about 4k.
But then you can sell your built A4 stuff to make some money back
#9
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I did mine last year. I sold my tranny for $2000 and my converter for $500 which paid for alot of it. Use your existing A4 harness. I tried a M6 harness and had issues and went back to the A4 harness. Very easy to modify. I am glad I made the swap. It is a lot of fun to drive. I really don't miss the A4 at all...
T56 from Six Speed Inc - $1950 Shipped and no core charge
Pedals from ebay - $50
Master/Slave from Advance- $175
Upper Console - $50 (I actually have one for sale if you need it)
Lower Shift boot - $30 from dealer
Upper Shift boot - $30 from dealer
M6 Crossmember $175 - From Yank, gets the torque arm off the tailshaft
Harness connectors for swap $20 from Ebay
Shifter - $150 - $200 depends on what you want
Clutch setup $500 - $1000 depending on what you get.
PCM calibration free if you have HP Tuners
So you will be looking between $3200 - $4000
T56 from Six Speed Inc - $1950 Shipped and no core charge
Pedals from ebay - $50
Master/Slave from Advance- $175
Upper Console - $50 (I actually have one for sale if you need it)
Lower Shift boot - $30 from dealer
Upper Shift boot - $30 from dealer
M6 Crossmember $175 - From Yank, gets the torque arm off the tailshaft
Harness connectors for swap $20 from Ebay
Shifter - $150 - $200 depends on what you want
Clutch setup $500 - $1000 depending on what you get.
PCM calibration free if you have HP Tuners
So you will be looking between $3200 - $4000
#10
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Did it a couple years ago. Wouldn't have it anyother way. It was a pretty good job for me and my son in our two car garage, but it was not too bad. I used my A4 harness, and used a Hurst shift ball with a button to wire my reverse lockout.
Buy a couple of long 3/8' extensions and a swivel socket to get to the top transmission bolts. and shop around for deals on used stuff.
Buy a couple of long 3/8' extensions and a swivel socket to get to the top transmission bolts. and shop around for deals on used stuff.
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Just had LMR do mine about a month ago. Good guys and good work. Email or PM me and I'll send you the details. It's all in rounding up the parts, including pigtails for reverse lockout, reverse lights, etc. I can give you the list I used, including part numbers, etc. if you like.
I personally would stick with the 12 bolt, see how she lasts. My guess is fine, especially on street tires. Now if you race every weekend and have slicks, I reserve the right to revise my prediction.
Your gearing will be key in your choice. Obviously, you can go with rear gears. The other option is the tranny from Z06s/CTS-Vs (M12/MN12). This is well suited to bolt on cars but may work well for you since, if memory serves, your engine is built to be manageable down low and come on like a freight train as the revs build. Just a thought. For reference, the MN12 and 3.42s has a final similar to 4.10s but with more closely spaced 1-4 and an almost as friendly 6th. Maybe the rear gears you have would work well with the GTO/Z06 tranny gearing.
My suggestion: work with LMR and SixSpeeds, Inc. (they're about 2 miles form each other) and get it sorted. You'll want a built unit to handle the power your mill puts out.
Overall, I love the swap. I wish I hadn't had to wait 3 years to do it. Worth the wait. It's more fun, more engaging, and I get better MPG to boot. It does make you more in tune with the car, for better and for worse. I love the way it sings but notice more annoyances: exhaust issues, driveline and suspension noises, etc. Overall - GREAT call for me. Like a new car and I love it all over again.
The only cons for you are:
Driving in rush hour traffic
Getting a "driveable" clutch that handles the power you have, especially on dope
Still worth it IMHO!
I personally would stick with the 12 bolt, see how she lasts. My guess is fine, especially on street tires. Now if you race every weekend and have slicks, I reserve the right to revise my prediction.
Your gearing will be key in your choice. Obviously, you can go with rear gears. The other option is the tranny from Z06s/CTS-Vs (M12/MN12). This is well suited to bolt on cars but may work well for you since, if memory serves, your engine is built to be manageable down low and come on like a freight train as the revs build. Just a thought. For reference, the MN12 and 3.42s has a final similar to 4.10s but with more closely spaced 1-4 and an almost as friendly 6th. Maybe the rear gears you have would work well with the GTO/Z06 tranny gearing.
My suggestion: work with LMR and SixSpeeds, Inc. (they're about 2 miles form each other) and get it sorted. You'll want a built unit to handle the power your mill puts out.
Overall, I love the swap. I wish I hadn't had to wait 3 years to do it. Worth the wait. It's more fun, more engaging, and I get better MPG to boot. It does make you more in tune with the car, for better and for worse. I love the way it sings but notice more annoyances: exhaust issues, driveline and suspension noises, etc. Overall - GREAT call for me. Like a new car and I love it all over again.
The only cons for you are:
Driving in rush hour traffic
Getting a "driveable" clutch that handles the power you have, especially on dope
Still worth it IMHO!
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im considering swapping out my T56 setup for an A3....i have a Stage 2 Rebuild from 6 Speed INc, Spec 3 clutch, B and M ripper...........id include everything...just send me a pm if intersted