Centerforce Clutch and High Rpms
04-09-2008, 07:26 PM
#1
Centerforce Clutch and High Rpms Shifting seems to be ok during normal driving, but when I get pass 6000 rpms I cannot shift. Anyone else have this problem and what could it be. I tried searching and some said to get flywheel balanced. Need advice thanks.
04-09-2008, 10:50 PM
#2
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I thought you already ordered a flywheel from centerforce? I have already told you several times that when I tried using the stock flywheel and didnt get it balanced with the centerforce 12" DF clutch I had this exact same problem. When I got my new centerforce and the flywheel to match and had both 0 balanced all is well. I have been shifting the **** out of mine for over 20,000 miles at 6900rpm. Also have stop and go driving every day.
04-09-2008, 11:11 PM
#3
I thought you already ordered a flywheel from centerforce? I have already told you several times that when I tried using the stock flywheel and didnt get it balanced with the centerforce 12" DF clutch I had this exact same problem. When I got my new centerforce and the flywheel to match and had both 0 balanced all is well. I have been shifting the **** out of mine for over 20,000 miles at 6900rpm. Also have stop and go driving every day.
04-10-2008, 03:57 AM
#4
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You may need to get a adj master. I have no probs with mine at 6500 all day. All stock hydros with no shim. How many miles are on your clutch? Give it at least 500 miles if you have not yet
04-10-2008, 08:12 AM
#7
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I didnt realize you have the 11" version. Personally I have heard the 11" version is the one everyone bitches about. That is why centerforce came out with the 12" DF version.
LS1C5Vette: I have the 12" version like you and mine has been flawless also. Im still on he stock master and no shims, no modification to the clutch line, etc.
LS1C5Vette: I have the 12" version like you and mine has been flawless also. Im still on he stock master and no shims, no modification to the clutch line, etc.
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04-10-2008, 08:30 AM
#8
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i really have no kind words for centerforce. i've run their clutches in 2 vehicles.. and actually taken them back out of both. to the OP.. i would think that what you're feeling is incomplete disengagement at high RPM... that's common for centerforce.
in my stang, the centerforce II would often not fully disengage, or feel scratchy. i ran it for 30k, and then went with a newly rebuilt T5 and i pulled the centerforce, sold it on ebay and went with an FRPP
in my yota truck, the centerforce actually became defective... the counterweights on the pressureplate actually became lodged within the fingers of the plate and prevented complete disengagement.
that sucked. i put it in myself, but it crapped when i was up at school, and had to pay for it to be taken out... i went with a borg warner brute force from napa.. and it was way better.
in a buddy's 79 F250, his centerforce was actually made slightly off center, and after about a year it snapped the head of the input shaft at High RPM.
in my stang, the centerforce II would often not fully disengage, or feel scratchy. i ran it for 30k, and then went with a newly rebuilt T5 and i pulled the centerforce, sold it on ebay and went with an FRPP
in my yota truck, the centerforce actually became defective... the counterweights on the pressureplate actually became lodged within the fingers of the plate and prevented complete disengagement.
that sucked. i put it in myself, but it crapped when i was up at school, and had to pay for it to be taken out... i went with a borg warner brute force from napa.. and it was way better.
in a buddy's 79 F250, his centerforce was actually made slightly off center, and after about a year it snapped the head of the input shaft at High RPM.
04-10-2008, 08:34 AM
#9
Do yourself a favor and do the clutch disengagement test. Basically, come to a dead stop on a flat surface with nothing in front of you. Put the car in first with the clutch pedal to the floor and keep it there. Rev the car up to just under redline. If the car starts to creep forward, you have a disengagement issue and you need to look at your hydraulics/clutch, if it doesn't move, it may be your transmission or just your driving.
04-10-2008, 04:55 PM
#11
Do yourself a favor and do the clutch disengagement test. Basically, come to a dead stop on a flat surface with nothing in front of you. Put the car in first with the clutch pedal to the floor and keep it there. Rev the car up to just under redline. If the car starts to creep forward, you have a disengagement issue and you need to look at your hydraulics/clutch, if it doesn't move, it may be your transmission or just your driving.
04-11-2008, 09:42 AM
#17
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I wouldnt cut the wire. I have heard of some people doing it but if i'm not mistaken the weights are what help the clamping force when you get in the higher rpm. The reason you are having problems shifting in high rpms isnt just b/c of the weights. It is b/c you clutch/flywheel assembly is out of balance due to your stock flywheel not being balanced with the clutch when you installed it. This makes the weights shift to one side which in turn doesnt let the clutch fully disengage.
So I guess in theory cutting the weights would solve this issue but then you are stuck with a shitty 11" design (which was replaced for a reason) and now it doesnt have the added strength from the weights to help on clamping force.
I say just get a 12" DF to do it right with a Centerforce Flywheel balanced together. OR since you keep trying to piece things together and dont wanna do it right I say just start over with the LS7/LS2 clutch package.
So I guess in theory cutting the weights would solve this issue but then you are stuck with a shitty 11" design (which was replaced for a reason) and now it doesnt have the added strength from the weights to help on clamping force.
I say just get a 12" DF to do it right with a Centerforce Flywheel balanced together. OR since you keep trying to piece things together and dont wanna do it right I say just start over with the LS7/LS2 clutch package.
04-11-2008, 04:42 PM
#20
Thanks Guys for all your input. I just recieved a centerforce fw #700142 that someone on here had for sale. Hopefully the centerforce clutch and the fw will now be balanced when I remove the stock fw. All I want to do is shift around 6500 rpms.