Clutch won't release after install.
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Clutch won't release after install.
I just installed a ram powergrip in my car and now the clutch wont release. I replaced everything with new parts including the hyraulics. The slave and master cylinder comes as an assembly from GM and thats what i used. I thought it was a pre-bled assembly but maybe im wrong? It's hard to get it into any gear and reverse is damn near impossible when the ca is running. Its very frustrating because i dont know what i did wrong. Everthing is new so it had to be something i did. Any suggestions would be a great help. Thanks
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I know its not the best time but now that your going to bleed did you happen to do the "drill mod" to the new line? I would suggest bleeding the hell out of the system and remember NEVER let the master resevoir run dry or you will screw urself with tons of air. The hydraulics on these cars are a PITA, just try bleeding the system well and post the results when you are done. You also mention reverse, ensure that all your connectors are plugged in to the trans, sounds like the reverse lockout to me.
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No I didnt do the drill mod. For 2 reasons. one reason is because i've never had any problems with the pedal sticking or high rpm shifts. The other is because I thought it was pre-bled and didnt want to mess around with bleeding it if i didnt have to.
I also not sure what the pressure plate bolts were torqued to because a friend of mine was helping me and when i got back from a beer run he already had it ready for the tranny to go back in. I didnt think to ask him.
I also not sure what the pressure plate bolts were torqued to because a friend of mine was helping me and when i got back from a beer run he already had it ready for the tranny to go back in. I didnt think to ask him.
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22 Ft lbs I believe is the slave cylinder... the Flywheel is torqued to 75 or so Ft lbs... and the Pressure plate is torqued to ~50 I believe... I just put an LS7 clutch in my car last month.
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#8
this is most likely your problem...don't bleed anything until you confirm the PP bolts were torqued to 22 ft lbs. good idea to use lock tite on the threads.
#12
if the PP bolts are over torqued...you are not the first to find out the hard way.
The flywheel bolts TQ 74 ft lbs, PP to 22 ft lbs. use lock tite on those bolts
To bad the LT1 bell housing does not have a inspection cover so you could access the PP bolts without droping everything.
The OEM hydraulics are a sealed unit and are not set up to bleed.
While I think your PP blts are to tight, when you pull the tranny 1" out confirm the clutch fork is on the TO bearing and also confirm clutch fork bolt is not loose (18 ft lbs)
Since this happened after clutch swap...$ on the PP bolts to tight.
The flywheel bolts TQ 74 ft lbs, PP to 22 ft lbs. use lock tite on those bolts
To bad the LT1 bell housing does not have a inspection cover so you could access the PP bolts without droping everything.
The OEM hydraulics are a sealed unit and are not set up to bleed.
While I think your PP blts are to tight, when you pull the tranny 1" out confirm the clutch fork is on the TO bearing and also confirm clutch fork bolt is not loose (18 ft lbs)
Since this happened after clutch swap...$ on the PP bolts to tight.
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Im leaning towards the pressure plate bolts as well. Pretty sure he just tightened the **** out of them but i could be wrong. I didnt think the oem hydraulics needed bled.
And yeah it definitely sucks the LT1 doesn't have an inspection cover, but it doesn't surprise me...the LT1 can be a big PITA.
And yeah it definitely sucks the LT1 doesn't have an inspection cover, but it doesn't surprise me...the LT1 can be a big PITA.
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Unfortunately I wont get to work on my car again until friday night. But I will post up my results after that to let you guys know how it works out. Thanks for all the ideas guys.
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Well we ripped the clutch out again. When we put it all back together we made sure every nut and bolt was torqued corrrectly...same f***in problem. Anyone have any defective clutches from ram?
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Well I'll tell you, I just had an OEM clutch installed with a McLeod disc...and I have the EXACT same problem you are having. I had a guy in a garage put the clutch in, then I replaced the master and slave both, and have bled the hell out of the system, and it still is hard as hell to get into gear, and damn near impossible to get into reverse.
Ive made a bunch of posts with no responses... I was thinking about dropping the tranny to check the torque on the bolts but you say that didn't fix it for you so ****.
We're trying to figure out what the damn deal is and if we do I'll be sure to let you know! And you do the same if you figure it out be sure to let me know! Good luck man, I know its so frustrating.
Ive made a bunch of posts with no responses... I was thinking about dropping the tranny to check the torque on the bolts but you say that didn't fix it for you so ****.
We're trying to figure out what the damn deal is and if we do I'll be sure to let you know! And you do the same if you figure it out be sure to let me know! Good luck man, I know its so frustrating.
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For right now what I did was take off that "cup" on the bellhousing that the slave bolts to, enabling me to bolt the slave down farther closer to the fork, and for the time being, it drives perfectly normal like it should...but that's ghetto rigged and just to make it driveable until we figure what the problem is.