CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

Heard about a BOP clutch and wanted to learn more about it. . . . . . . .

Is anyone using them on here?

What kinda power do they hold?

How are they compared to the Textralias, Specs, McLouds, etc.?

Any details anyone can provide will be appreciated.

I've seen some GTO's and Vette's running them... and they seem to do well. I've seen people on the forums suggest them over the Textralias and other mostly used clutches so apparently they have to be decent.

SLP4CamaroSS

iTrader: (16)

yr just like me on clutchs lol i been looking and looking hard to find one that i want to go out and buy

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

yeah cause money is tight and i want what i get not to be a P.O.S.

SLP4CamaroSS

iTrader: (16)

im thinkign abotu the powergrip cuz it got the 980 disk with a billet flywheel

drozd_ws6

iTrader: (19)

I looked into them. In my opinion its just not worth it. They go $1100-$1200 and it's a single disk? Just go get a Textralia oz700 . Tons of positive feedback and only $900

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

Go down to your local cluch shop and have them make you a disk with velvettouch buttons on it. Buy an aftermarket steel flywheel and a Luk non adjustable PP. Any machine shop can balance the assembly for you. You need to measure the distance between the tip of the PP release arms and the face of the bellhousing where the trans mates to it. I had to shim my slave .150 thou. out and that left me with the slave compressed .120 from bottom. I paid $500 for all my stuff and beat the hell out of my car constantly with 400+ RWHP. If you want an even more agressive bite, you can use the iron pucks instead of the velvettouch but they chatter more. For me, there was no sense in spending $900+ for a cluch when I could do as well for $400 less. It just takes some time to measure and footwork to the machineshop. Im running a 346 with AFR 225's, Fast 90, 228/230 XER comp. cam.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

BOP. Not worth what they are asking for and IMO very poor material design.

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

good idea! ill look into that...

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

whats your reasoning behind that?

02BLK-SS

iTrader: (1)

You need to measure the distance between the tip of the PP release arms and the face of the bellhousing where the trans mates to it. I had to shim my slave .150 thou. out and that left me with the slave compressed .120 from bottom.
Great info-
Could you explain the "measure the distance between the tip of the PP release arms and the face of the bellhousing where the trans mates to it" great info.
I am very interested in BOP for puck design and possible ease out of the hole. Anyone have any drag radial experience out of the hole on a prep track? can you ease it out or is it on and off like the powergrip HD ? still working on 11 stock full weight.
I just pulled ram setup and PP is to worn to reface. About to buy tomorrow- either same ram setup or try the BOP

02BLK-SS

iTrader: (1)

Great info-
Could you explain the "measure the distance between the tip of the PP release arms and the face of the bellhousing where the trans mates to it" great info. my 2nd clutch was ram billet fw,stock PP with three button carbotic built by local clutch shop got 1.71's with 17" dr's.
I am very interested in BOP for organic puck design and possible ease on launch. Anyone have any BOP track time time with dr's on a prep track? can you ease it out or is it on and off like the powergrip HD ? still working on 11 si full weight.
I just pulled ram setup and PP is to worn out to reface. About to buy tomorrow- either same ram setup or try the BOP[/QUOTE]

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

The idea is to find out how much the slave is compressed when you install the trans. If the slave isnt compressed enough, you wont have enough pedal travel for disengagement and if you bottom the slave out, it will cause the clutch to never fully engage. Either case can lead to clutch failure.

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

anyone else tried these clutches or no anyone who has?

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

I have a BOP clutch love it pushing 658 hp thought it on a 4000 lb car holding strong. The feel is great I love this clutch doesnt shutter or make the car drive like **** from a stop. Soon willl be pushing 1000 hp though it with slicks just waiting on mini tubs to be installed

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

whats the break in period on it?

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

for break in i just did 500 mile of easy driving

Jake@EPP

As posted on another forum, they use a stock pressure plate that is modified for more pressure, and they also use a stock flywheel that is from the same place gm buys theres.

The only way i can see it holding any more power then a factory one is they use a 6puck disc, it looks to be a kevlar ceramic disc, similar to the spec 3 6puck.

For the price tag you can get into a spec 3 + which has been proven and doesnt use stock parts, and its flywheel is also SFI for you racers.

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

well they have more than one clutch, the talon is comparable to the oz700 or exo skel they use a different flywheel and everything. its just something new ive heard about and read about so i thought itd be interesting in seeing what others have heard.

ally2dextreme

there is no benifit in a billit flywheel...and it uses a special iron type puck not kevlar...theres also a video of a gto with 770 plus hp and 880 plus tq...using the talon

Jake@EPP

The benefit is it is SFI approved, having 2 feet at the end of the day is a good thing. Not saying the clutch will blow apart on you, but the sfi sticker says they paid the money to have it checked out.

The sintered iron pucks are a common for max torque rating, in retrospect they also tear up the flywheel and pressure plate quite a bit faster then a normal clutch.