ls-lx

iTrader: (2)

I have tried everything i know to do and am lost. Here's the run down on what i have. I bought a ls1/t56 out of a 99 TA with 80k miles to go in my 89 coupe mustang. when i pulled the tranny off the motor, it was the oem clutch so i installed a centerforce dual friction clutch and resurface the flywheel. put the motor transmission in the coupe and began working on the hydraulics. mounted the master on the fire wall and the mounted the rod to the pedal assembly so that i got plenty of motion. then the bleeding started over and over and over.....
after i could not bleed it the traditional way. put a mighty vac on it and continued to bleed... still nothing. Installed all new 01-02 hydraulics, slave, master, drill mod, etc. clutch then started working after mighty vac bleeding. The clutch seemed to be working excellent as long as you didn't try to shift at over 4000 rpm. you could put it in 1st and depress the clutch and it would not move until the engines rpm went over 4k and then it would creep forward. the master bottoms out well before the pedal hits the floor. The clutch held but over night it leaked down so as you can't even put the car in gear or shift once it gets into gear. will re bleed and it will work for a short period of time but never be able to reach the 4k goal again. This is the point i am at now. have done everything i know of to do. i hope i haven't forgotten to write something but if you have questions or ideas let me know. i am desperate to figure it out so i can actually drive the car. all input is greatly appreciated
thanks josh

SladeX

First I want to confirm you aren't trying to bleed it by yourself. The process requires 2 people or a remote speed bleeder setup.

Second, it sounds like there's a leak in the hydraulics or a lot of air in the system. Could be associated with the first question.

Third, you resurfaced the flywheel, do you have the clutch shimmed properly? Not all clutches are bolt in and forget about it. That clutch may require a shim to get it to disengage properly hence the 4krpm no shift deal as it is dragging or air in the system causing half disengagement only.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

This also now has all f car hydraulic system, master, line & slave?
It does sound like lots of air in there, bleed it with this method also works with probematic systems;
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/910268-clutch-engagement-problem.html

ls-lx

iTrader: (2)

yes i am bleeding with someone else, sorry didn't put it just assumed. i did shim the clutch even though the people at centerforce said there clutch didn't need a shim. i have actually bleed it for hours and still only 4k on a good day. yes wrencher ALL of the hydraulics are from an LS1 F-body
thanks

SladeX

So you shimmed it despite them recommending it not be shimmed. It's also been resurfaced. You may want to take some measurements to verify if a shim is necessary or not.

If you can stick it in gear, leave the clutch pressed in and get it to crawl forward spinning at 4krpm +, then for sure you aren't getting proper clutch disengagement. This is caused by hydraulics not functioning properly ie air or leak or the slave is too far to disengage the clutch completely.

Keep at it, you'll figure it out eventually.

zoomclutch

We second the fact of having to double check measurments to see if shimming is required. We soent months R&D trannys to get a clutch unit to fit with no shimming so i'm sure in your case of doing a 'hybrid' set up, you will need to measure everything.

Hope your conversion ends up being a success!

ls-lx

iTrader: (2)

talked with centerforce once again today and they said that if there wasn't air coming out it may in fact be the clutch itself. they have had some problems similar in nature to mine and they recommended cutting the wire holding the weights on and removing the weights.