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Anyone save the pics off this thread? Been getting pms pics are broken links, hard drive not backed up. Any related build pics would be appreciated I'll integrate them back in the thread. PM me
Should the bearings get some grease for startup or start it up with just ATF? I didn't get and of the double special trans grease.
3-1-3. LUBRICATING BEARINGS. Immediately after
cleaning, lubricate anti-friction bearings listed below with
transmission lubricant (refer to paragraph 1-1-3). Rotating
or spinning dry, unlubricated bearings could result in
damage. Cover lubricated bearings to protect from dust.
4-1-2. INSTALL OR CONNECT. Lubricate all components
as assembly progresses. Use Transmission Assembly
Lube or equivalent.
Needs some lubricating film, no dry startup
Last edited by greysteel_M6; 09-02-2014 at 09:15 PM.
Don't remember if I posted this. I did not set the preload reasoning that in a basic rebuild, as I did, we're not actually changing any of the tolerance related parts (race-bearing-shaft), only the parts that ride on the shafts get changed out. That being said, I cannot recommend not setting it. Preload/end-play measurement is overviewed RestoRoc89 pg 5 of this thread and manual sections 5 and 6.4
I dug up the photos from the first page from the waybackmachine. Here they are, in order, I believe.
Second, I'd like to ask a question. I'm restoring a 71 Cutlass convertible that I'm planning to put an LS and manual in. I've found a guy online selling a t56 out of a c6 z51 vette. He is saying that he replaced it because it made noise on deceleration in 2nd and 3rd and it still worked, but he bought a new one. I don't know what kind of sound it made, but I'd like to have some idea what I'd be into to repair this thing and, if it's worth buying what I should pay. What do I need to know to make a smart decision, or how bad do I have to assume it is? I'm not a mechanic, but my son is, he's working on the car with me.
i dug up the photos from the first page from the waybackmachine. Here they are, in order, i believe.
Second, i'd like to ask a question. I'm restoring a 71 cutlass convertible that i'm planning to put an ls and manual in. I've found a guy online selling a t56 out of a c6 z51 vette. He is saying that he replaced it because it made noise on deceleration in 2nd and 3rd and it still worked, but he bought a new one. I don't know what kind of sound it made, but i'd like to have some idea what i'd be into to repair this thing and, if it's worth buying what i should pay. What do i need to know to make a smart decision, or how bad do i have to assume it is? I'm not a mechanic, but my son is, he's working on the car with me.
I'm having a hard time with the interlock/shift lever alignment. Does anyone have pictures?
It's tricky and usually takes a few tries. Both rods can pretty much only go on one way. Everthing needs to be in neutral to get ths pins in the case. You'll know when its in neutral when the pin in the interlock swings through the cutouts. Then just hang the 5-6-R rods on it and drop the case on it. Then use a flashlight and screwdriver through the hole to help align the slots, the right one that goes through the interlock is usually a pain.
It's tricky and usually takes a few tries. Both rods can pretty much only go on one way. Everthing needs to be in neutral to get ths pins in the case. You'll know when its in neutral when the pin in the interlock swings through the cutouts. Then just hang the 5-6-R rods on it and drop the case on it. Then use a flashlight and screwdriver through the hole to help align the slots, the right one that goes through the interlock is usually a pain.
I figured it out shortly after that post..That is the only tough part of the rebuild. Otherwise very easy and straight forward.
Hey guys I'm rebuilding my t56 everything went great.....went through the gears with the transmission upright on the bellhousing everything shifted good.Then I layer the trans flat like it is when in the car 1-4 are smooth 5 or 6 both don't want to disengauge. You have to shake the shifter back and forth for it to come out of 5 or 6. Any ideas?
Hey guys, hoping someone can shed some insight on my T56 rebuild. This is my first time digging into any kind of manual tranny, so bear with me and my poor understanding and possibly incorrect terminology.
Original symptom was transmission stuck in 4th gear. Problem was sheared 3/4 shift keys, which I replaced with billet keys, as well as all new shift pads.
Now, I know it's definitely not the RIGHT way to do it, but I figured the less I took apart the better off I would be, so I snuck the billet keys in from the front of the 3/4 synchro, reusing the OE rear most spring and one of the new springs that came with the keys on the front of the assembly. Everything seemed ok, but for all I know my problem could be in that , or maybe some of the other stuff I didn't disassemble? 3/4 blocker ring?
Trans was low mileage when swapped in, and everything worked great til I got it stuck in 4th at a recent HPDE at NJMP, so I figured I'd leave well enough alone for everything else. No grinding into any gears, no noises, no popping out of gear, etc.
I have the main case back on and the forks/guide pins set correctly AFAIK, but the trans still seems to be locked in fourth gear. Do I have to position one of the synchro or blocker ring assemblies in a certain way to set the trans in neutral? I figured if the shift rail guides, shift forks, and alignment bolts all fell into correct position, the I would be OK, but I'm realizing I'm probably quite wrong.
There is an ocean of information on T56 rebuilds out there, but a lot of the rebuild threads are either not very comprehensive, missing steps, or in the case of this thread, pictures. If anyone has some ideas to throw at me, it would be much appreciated!
I just rebuilt my T56 myself using this post a couple other good posts and the manual. I still found I needed to understand how the thing worked to make sure I got it together correctly. My 1st / 3rd inner cones were smoked and my 6th gear syncho spring had popped off. At the same time I installed a Tick master and Monster Stage 3. The car has never driver this good.
Regarding the question above. I don't know exactly what was disassembled. But to rebuild the synchros you need to align the inner and outer assemblies so the key falls in the recess in the outer assembly. You don't do this and the thing will jam. You also need to install the springs so you start at the same key but run opposite directions on both sides otherwise the spring force won't be constant against the keys. Blocker rings also need to be aligned with the keys. I'm not an expert, but you could have done one of those things wrong.
Biggest issue I had was removing the 5-6 gear, that was really on there. To install I put assembly lube on the input shaft and heated the gear to about 600F on my gas grill. Dropped right back on. I tried 400F and it wouldn't even pound on.
09-02-2014, 09:07 PM
