clutch swap. what is needed?
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clutch swap. what is needed?
i'm going to put an ls7 clutch/flywheel kit from scoggin dickey in my '02 SS. i need to know every part/tool that is needed because i'm going to try this at my house. from what i know i need a new pilot bearing, a clutch alignment tool, and a flywheel holder. since i have an '02, i dont need a new master or slave cylinder do i? i tryed searching but i just want to get everything together so i can finish it in a day hopefully. i'm also going to do the drill mod while i'm in there because it's been grinding going into 3rd at high rpm's lately. thanks.
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Tools
13mm socket
13mm gear wrench
15mm socket
15mm gear wrench
18mm socket (I think, for tranny mount nut)
11mm socket (for driveshaft)
16mm socket (for flywheel bolts)
10mm socket (to remove center console)
7mm socket/nutdriver (to remove rubber shift boot)
Pilot bearing removal tool/Screwdriver and hammer to break it out
Clutch Line Removal Tool (can borrow it from autozone, it's a Ford tool, but it works for our cars)
A good floor jack or tranny jack to raise and lower the trans
3 or 4 ton jack stands to get the car high enough to do it, the higher it is, the easier it'll be on you, but make sure it's stable enough to work under
A hook & pick set is always nice to have to remove electrical connectors
Parts
Flywheel
Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate
New Flywheel-to-Crank, and Pressure Plate-to-Flywheel bolts (optional)
New Slave Cylinder (Optional, but Highly recommended)
New Master Cylinder (Recommended, but can be changed at any time without removing tranny)
New Pilot Bearing
New tranny fluid (4 quarts)
That's all I can think of right now, I've done this way too many times.
13mm socket
13mm gear wrench
15mm socket
15mm gear wrench
18mm socket (I think, for tranny mount nut)
11mm socket (for driveshaft)
16mm socket (for flywheel bolts)
10mm socket (to remove center console)
7mm socket/nutdriver (to remove rubber shift boot)
Pilot bearing removal tool/Screwdriver and hammer to break it out
Clutch Line Removal Tool (can borrow it from autozone, it's a Ford tool, but it works for our cars)
A good floor jack or tranny jack to raise and lower the trans
3 or 4 ton jack stands to get the car high enough to do it, the higher it is, the easier it'll be on you, but make sure it's stable enough to work under
A hook & pick set is always nice to have to remove electrical connectors
Parts
Flywheel
Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate
New Flywheel-to-Crank, and Pressure Plate-to-Flywheel bolts (optional)
New Slave Cylinder (Optional, but Highly recommended)
New Master Cylinder (Recommended, but can be changed at any time without removing tranny)
New Pilot Bearing
New tranny fluid (4 quarts)
That's all I can think of right now, I've done this way too many times.
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One more thing... it's optional, but IMO should always be used. A 1/8" slave shim/spacer. Did wonders for my clutch operation. Been shifting my LS7 at 6500 rpm with zero issues, but I had problems shifting at 5800 before the shim. You can make the shim yourself, or buy it at www.speedinc.com. I've yet to do the drill mod, and I do not plan on it, as I have none of the issues that the drill mod is typically used to fix.
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If you have access to air tools, use them.
You don't need a clutch line removal tool. you can just push in the clip and it will come right out. If you can't do it with your hands use two flat head screwdrivers.
Make sure you used loctite on the flywheel to crankshaft bolts and pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Also make sure you mark where the driveshaft is located on the yoke so it goes back on the same way.
You don't NEED a new slave but I would put a new one in while you have the trans out anyways.
You don't need a clutch line removal tool. you can just push in the clip and it will come right out. If you can't do it with your hands use two flat head screwdrivers.
Make sure you used loctite on the flywheel to crankshaft bolts and pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Also make sure you mark where the driveshaft is located on the yoke so it goes back on the same way.
You don't NEED a new slave but I would put a new one in while you have the trans out anyways.
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98-00 cars did have inferior hydraulics. That doesn't mean that 01-02 cars should never have the hydraulics replaced though. Slave cylinders do go bad, and so do master.
Personally, I always change the slave when I put in a clutch, because I don't want to have to pull the tranny again when the slave goes bad 8,000 miles later, or whenever it decides to go. Best to just change it while you're in there and forget about it.
On the otherhand, the master cylinder can be changed easily without removing the tranny, so I only change that when I have a problem with it.
Just my 2¢.
Personally, I always change the slave when I put in a clutch, because I don't want to have to pull the tranny again when the slave goes bad 8,000 miles later, or whenever it decides to go. Best to just change it while you're in there and forget about it.
On the otherhand, the master cylinder can be changed easily without removing the tranny, so I only change that when I have a problem with it.
Just my 2¢.
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ok, i'll go ahead and replace the slave and get that slave shim. this will be my first clutch install. if i take my time and follow the directions, is it a pretty straight forward procedure? i'll probably have at least one person to help me with it. and i'll have access to air tools at my house.
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It's a pain in the a$$ the first time... but it's 1000x better with someone helping. I forgot to mention the clutch alignment tool, but even after using it, check it visually to make sure the clutch disc is aligned with the pilot bearing in the crank. The tools can flex and allow them to get misaligned if you're not careful. If you get it aligned right, it should slide back in fairly easily.
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Personally, I align it with the tool as best as I can, then I stick my head up in there, and align my eye level with the pilot, and look through the disc to make sure it's a straight shot. Not the most accurate way in the world, but it's worked for me.
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ok, i'll keep all that in mind. thanks a lot guys. so the clutch kit, slave, slave shim, pilot bearing, 4 quarts of atf, alignment tool, and a flywheel holder should do it? and can you rent the flywheel holder from advanced?
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alright, thanks a lot man! wish me luck i'm about to do a cam swap after this, i'll be puttin an mti x1 in there. i hope it'll hold the power. it should, it's a DD, i'll take it to the track every once in a while.
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yea, the next thing i'm going to be saving up for will be an S60, till then i'll just have to take it easy on my 10 bolt and make it last because after all this cam/clutch stuff i'm gonna be a little low on cash.
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An S60 is serious overkill (meaning extra weight, extra rotating mass, and less rear wheel horsepower) unless you're running 700+ rwhp. It also requires a custom driveshaft. A Moser 9" will probably handle all the power you'll ever make and will use the stock length driveshaft.
Now, if you plan on doing a high boost setup, or ETREME iron LSx NA, then you might actually need the S60 one of these days.
Just something to think about.
Now, if you plan on doing a high boost setup, or ETREME iron LSx NA, then you might actually need the S60 one of these days.
Just something to think about.