E Wagz

iTrader: (7)

I recently had my T 56 built by a very well known and reputable sponsor. After some time, due to errors on the part of shipping companies, no fault of the tranny builder, got the unit back and installed.

I have an Exedy twin disc clutch. Checked the clutch and wear seems fine. I had no issues with the clutch prior to sending the tranny off. The tranny had stuck in reverse a couple of times and it needed to be built with the HP and TQ that my car now supplies. Company advised that they received tranny and saw no real signs of wear and could not see why it may have stuck in reverse. Tranny was built and sent back.

Immediately upon installation, the first time it was driven, it would not stay in 1st gear. Depress clutch. put it in first, let out on clutch and the shifter would pop out of first. Occasionally it would grind or clank when it did so.

I have a B&M ripper shifter and it was adjusted to see if that may be the problem when it was reinstalled. No luck, problem continued.

With the new tranny, a Quick Time bellhousing was installed. It comes with a plate for the rear of the block. The new bellhousing and plate are the same depth as the stock bellhousing.

Trying to eliminate any clutch issues, a McLeod adjustable master was installed, as my clutch has always caught just off the floor after installing the Exedy. Clutch has been thoroughly bled, including bench bleeding the new master. Unfortunately the problem continues.

Any ideas? I think the sponsor is great and have had good communication with them, just trying to see if others may have ideas, other than it being in the new tranny. It has also popped out of second gear a few times when I had to drive it to the shop without using 1st. Getting frustrated and looking for those with similar problems in the past.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

How many miles on the new trans, and have you had it up to temp (130deg+) several times and changed the fluid?

Rebuilds use alot of assembly lube to help stop break-in wear, and it needs to dissolve in hot trans fluid and drained out after a few hundred miles..

HTH
mike

E Wagz

iTrader: (7)

Have only driven the car maybe 10-15 miles due to the problem. Shipped back with no fluid, filled with 4 quarts Mobil 1 ATF at recommendation of builder. They made no mention of lube possibly affecting this. Why would assembly lube cause such a problem?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

lube on the synchro keys can keep them from fully engaging, and the trans to pop out of gear. I assume you had the Billet keys put in during the power rebuild, which also take time to work in..

I believe sixspeedsinc also recommends a similar break-in period.

http://sixspeedsinc.com/Break.doc

I use this stuff:

http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/t...mblee_goo.html

for my rebuilds.. I send them out with a break-in document similar to the sixspeedinc one, with emphasis on the heat cycle and break-in fluid change..

E Wagz

iTrader: (7)

I Just Want To Make Sure That You Are Suggesting The Following:

Continue Driving For 500 Miles And Drain/replace Fluid?
Any Suggestion On When To Attempt Using First Gear Again?
How Doesthe Lubeactually Throw The Shifter Out Ofgear?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

I'm suggesting that the rebuild may not have been incorrect, the assembly process and new parts do take time to break in, and it may not "feel" like a stock setup. If you have a warranty on it from a good shop, it should be long enough to allow you to break-in the trans.

Make sure your shifts are quick and firm, don't try to lazy the gear in like on a stock trans. You may have to hold the shifter in as you release the clutch at first, but give it a few miles and allow it to come up to temp.

Really hope it works out for you...

mike

E Wagz

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the input but I don't think this is the problem for the following reasons. On the first day after the installation, I could put it into first gear occasionally and it would drive. About 50% of the time it would immediately pop out of first as soon as the clutch pedal came up, say after leaving a stop light. Other times it would just grind and not stay/go in the gear, or pop out and grind. After trying to drive it 10 miles or so, mostly using 2nd gear, it now will not even stay in 1st at all. It grinds and if you attempt to keep it in gear it just batters the shifter and forces your hand back. I'm a strong guy and can not keep it there. I would think if it was a clutch issue, I would have problems in all gears. and has popped out maybe half a dozen times with no grinding. Shifts from 2-3-4-5-6 are very smooth and cleanly transitioned. I've been shifting it very firmly and not lazying it in at all, that stopped when I got the Exedy clutch.

Any other ideas out there?

E Wagz

iTrader: (7)

Correction: the sentence "and has popped out maybe half a dozen times with no grinding." refers to second gear from a stop.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I'm thinking that something is preventing the slider from getting all the way to the point where the slider / gear teeth are fully meshed. And it's going to take disassembly to fix. And I don't think it's a break-in lube (which I never use) problem.

BALLSS

might want to take a 2nd look at your shifter.

Either it is bad or the "stop" points are not set correctly. Not familiar with the B&M. I run the HURST Pro Billet

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

A shifter should have all stops removed... The T56 has internal stops and doesn't need any on the shifter...

E Wagz

iTrader: (7)

Will check the stops on the shifter, have had the thing adjusted the full spectrum of forward to back during this process and it hasn't changed much, other than when it was shifted all of the way back, it was more likely to pop out of 2nd.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Probably wouldn't hurt to try a stock shifter back on also.

E Wagz

iTrader: (7)

B&M has no stops on it, merely adjustable front to back in placement. Any other ideas out there that may hep me?

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

Maybe a fork problem with the 1/2 fork. The travel with the shifter should move each fork the same amount so a problem with the shifter in 1st would likely translate to 3rd and 5th. When you're sitting in the car and the engine's not running, you should be able to feel the point where the fork pushes the 1/2 shift sleeve over the blocker ring and onto the gear. The action you feel as this occurs should be happening at the same amount of shifter travel in all the gears. I'm wondering if the shifter seems to engage 2nd early compared to 4th and 6th and if it never feels all the way in 1st compared to 3rd and 5th. The only other thing to do is pull the trans and inspect it yourself.

E Wagz

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Dave, see you are in Springfield, I work in Decatur, live in Mt. ZIon. I'll see if I can tell anything by the feel ofwhat is going on with the car off.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

What did you end up doing??