Smokin00WS6

iTrader: (4)

Well Ive had enough of the clutch sticking and pissing me off on fast bursts. Its kinda made the car annoying to go fast in. Drill mod didnt work and I just want to make sure Im going to replace the right thing.

Im going to put a new master cylinder in, and in the kit is new lines and new res. $130 oem gm part. I got a discount on the part so Im pumped.

So am I heading in the right direction. Should I replace the slave while Im at it or is it not necessary. I smoked my clutch pretty god the other day but she is still grabbing like a horney 16 year old. Just want to hear some suggestions. Im thinking about doing the clutch next year after I get the headers, Y, and intake TB on this year.

Thanks for any input.

mike

Viper

iTrader: (6)

If you have the time, go ahead and loosen the tranny to get to the slave. Pulling the old master (solo) and putting it back is a bi@tch

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

The clutch is probly the root of your problem.

Smokin00WS6

iTrader: (4)

I was debating about doing this. I talked to my mechanic and we both discussed the issue and he said that more than likely the slave is fine. He works on LSX cars all the time so I was going to take his word. What would your reasoning be. If Im going to do this I might as well kill two birds with one stone if its worth it.

Can you elaborate for me. Im told that the clutch is fine. Ive wondered myself about the clutch. Any info you give me is going to help a TON.

Thanks guys

Mike

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Mike

Yes, you can kill 2 birds with one stone and not have ot wonder if the slave is bad too.

John

Smokin00WS6

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I guess I might as well. Im guessing in a year or two the clutch and pressure plate will be next, so as long as we are at it we might as well do it.

Thanks for your advice John.

Mike

superslowjoe

It wasnt that bad, I read all the horror stories on here about replacing the Master without help but I went ahead and got it done by myself in about 30 minutes. Took out a shot Mcleod and put in a OEM.

Smokin00WS6

iTrader: (4)

Joe,

Did you do the slave while you did the master?? Just curious. Or did you do the slave before you did the master. just curious. My mechanic is telling me it would be a waste of 120 bucks to do the slave right now. I dont know which way to go.

1sick'98WS6

iTrader: (19)

I would almost guess that slave is bad before the master.. I would do the slave as well, and to be perfectly honest the stock ls1 clutch isnt good for much else than getting these cars to cruise down the freeway. for an extra 500 you could have the slave and a new ls7 kit. Keep in mind the clutch sticking( which i assume you mean to the floor) could also be a slipping clutch

Viper

iTrader: (6)

My $.02 is to change them both at the same time since you are already tearing into things. That way you know you have new hydraulics.

Smokin00WS6

iTrader: (4)

Ive thought about this too. Where are good places to look at an ls7 kit?? I wasnt able to do it today so I have till thursday or later if I need to do this. Thanks for the advice. Im getting so many different answers about what it could be so for sure Im going to do both Master and Slave. NO MATTER WHAT. Thanks again.

Viper thanks for your ongoing advice. Your the one that actually made me realize I need to do both while Im down and dirty. THanks for the advice.

Mike

nd4spd22

iTrader: (6)

I did both at the same time... I hate having to go back and fix **** when I was already in there a couple weeks prior... Just my .02, Good luck to ya!

sweet-94z28

iTrader: (30)

My clutch kept not wanting to fully disenage on my T/A. There was no fluid on the floor (really the only time the slave is "bad") so I threw a master in it and its fixed. I bet your line is clogged and you are not getting pressure where it needs to go sometimes. My car had an OEM master in it and the primary seal was all chewed up in it because the dumbasses that did my clutch in before I bought the car "attempted" the drill mod, but did not drill all the way through and they did not flush the shavings out of the line.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

I totally agree, have seen it many times. The high RPM shifting on the weaker pressure plate is the problem.It's centrifical force or the pressure plate spinning at 6K+. Once the diaphram spring is in the released position(pedal depressed) it hangs up for a second,causing the pedal to the floor senerio.

Have seen this play out numerous time, a stout clutch was always the fix. But your right to do up the hydraulics as well. If you do a clutch get a slave while your in there.

Smokin00WS6

iTrader: (4)

Definately going to flush the system out completely. Thats exactly why the drill mod scares me, and its the fact that eventually you are going to have to replace stuff.

Thanks for the great advice wrencher. You helped me understand my situation alot better. After reading your post it makes total sense because it seems like this happens around or close to red line. although sometimes crusing at 3500-4000k for maybe like 20 seconds then shifting up it sticks too, but definately doing those 3500-4000k then full throttle to 6k is when I notice it happen alot. I think Ill do the hydraulics now then get some money for new clutch and pressure plate next year. Thanks a ton wrencher.

Dude I hear you on doing it all at the same time. Might as well get it done and not have to dick around later. These two things are the bitch, the clutch wont be as bad I dont think.