Grant B

I've completed a LuK Pro Gold clutch install on my C5, and have about 1.5" of dead travel in the top of my clutch pedal. No amount of bleeding or mighty-vacing makes it go away. There are no visible leaks, and continual pumping doesn't seem to make any difference. It doesn't feel like its compressing air, it really just feels like nothing is happening period. Consequently, the clutch isn't disengaging. Is this indicative of a bad master cylinder?

Are any of the OE master cylinders adjustable? I thought I remembered reading that ones on the later model (LS6) C5s were.

Also, my "quick" disconnect fitting isn't coming off, so I haven't been able to pull the master. I really, really don't want to tear half the car apart (again) to change the master->slave line. Can you cannibalize one of these things with a dremel and save the slave half? Alternatively, would the dealer be able to change the master with their nifty specialty tools? I have no problem bringing the car to them if it saves me from having to drop the torque tube again.

The AmPro tool from Advance Auto actually didn't work for me. It looked like it was machined by drunken monkeys; the tolerances were way off, and the 5/8" part of the tool was just too large. I got the disconnect off the first time with a 11/16" open-end wrench, but now the bitch just won't budge, even if I push on the plastic ring so hard it feels like I'm about to break the line coming from the master.

Thanks for any help.

vetteboyc5

iTrader: (9)

Those c5 lines are ******* hard to get off.. I always struggle with mine for atleast 15 minues to release it. My main issue is its too damn short, It barely connects maybe its with the way mine is setup but there is like no slack at all..

I used a small flat head to push it in... You need to be pulling on the slave end the whole time, if you pull on it while you work the clip it will eventually pop off..

As for the master cylinder, It is non adjustable in its stock form, However its very easy to make it adjustable, If youll look at the top of this forum theres a sticky on makeing it adjustable, you just need to buy a die, cut and thead the shaft and use a coupler nut.

Its a job you can do yourself, I havent done mine yet but im about to. its pretty easy to remove the master also, to do it, all you have to do is remove the clip on the pedal, remove the lower wheel liner cover on the LF wheel(a few 8mm screws) and you just grab the master cylinder body and twist it and it twists off. It basically hooks in and locks in.

After you take the master cylinder apart like the article will show you, bench bleed the master by having someone pump the rod, and take a small nail or screwdriver and push in the plastic end on the quick connect that hooks into the master, and fluid and air will shoot out, repeat it a few times then reinstall and bleed the whole system.