copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

I bought a '98 WS-6 with a viper prep T-56 and a Spec-3 clutch. When I bought the car, I knew it needed the clutch replaced along with the rear main seal. I tore it apart, replaced everything and put it back together. A buddy of mine helped me bleed the clutch but he kept saying the clutch felt sloppy. After bleeding it for a while, it didn't change so we tried to put it on the ground, start it and see if it even worked. It wouldn't do anything, still felt like I never bled it. So we put it back in the air and spent probably 45 minutes bleeding it and it still wasn't making a difference. My buddy said that it would start to build pressure but then it would just go away and feel crappy again. The car drove fine before I tore it apart, it just slipped when you get on it. Is it possible that my master cylinder is bad now? If so, would the RAM master work with the SPEC clutch?

If it makes any difference, when i unhooked the clutch line from the side of the trans, the fluid just kept running out. My buddy said that when he unhooked his, it only dripped a couple drops.

Please Help!!

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like air is still in the line. As for the connector on the line, once it is disconnected nothing should run out of it maybe a few drops. A way to tell if the connector is bad is to disconnect it from the trans and push on the clutch pedal. Nothing should come out of the line and the pedal should be stiff.

copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

I tried that and it was really stiff. Should I try to hook up a vacuum pump?

JSmee99T/A

iTrader: (15)

i didnt use a vacuum up to mine. i just got on the ground and opened the bleeder on the slave and bled just like the brakes. keep an eye on fluid level and pump it like 20-30 times. i read someone say if you only pump a few it does nothing.

copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

Ok. Well we bled it regularly through the bleeder valve for over an hour total and it didn't change anything.

DesertFox

iTrader: (2)

Is the fluid still clear? Mine had a similiar problem, not as severe as yours and I had to change the master cylinder. After that is has been perfect. (I had 135k miles at the time).

When the seals wear out on the master cylinder they will turn fresh fluid black fairly quickly, less than a week.

Josh

copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

Mine has 88,600 miles on it and the fluid is still krystle clear. I talked to a GM mechanic back home in St. Louis the I've been friends with for years, he also builds race motors. He told me that it sounds like I have an air bubble somewhere. I'm going to pick up a hand held vacuum pump tomorrow and try to vacuum the lines and see if that works. If not, then plan B is a master cylinder.

Unless someone has any other ideas.

copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

So any other suggestions?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

So basically you want to bleed it like Brakes.. Pump it up a few times and then open the Bleeder..cause I read the same thing about how you pump once and open it while your foot is down. That didn't make sense to me..

copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I put it back up on the lift today and tried bleeding it again and still nothing. I had a GM Mechanic that I now look at it and he says it feels like the Master Cylinder. So I ordered one today and it should be here tomorrow or Thursday. Hopefully this will be the last thing I have to buy!!

taner

iTrader: (6)

gravity bleed it first....then seal it up. top reservoir, put foot to floor, crack bleeder, let air come out, tighten bleed screw. then lift clutch pedal. repeat procedure till pedal is firm. remember to keep an eye on the fluid level in reservoir.

trust me i know, lol!!!! if your master isn't bled by the 4th time you do this then the master is pooched or you are doing it wrong.

copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

We tried the gravity bleed a couple of times, still nothing. We even tried pressuring the the fluid from the bleed valve as recommended by GM and it had no air come out, just straight fluid. I'm going to try replacing the master and if it still doesn't work, I think i will take it to a shop before my wife kills me for sinking more money into it. It's my daily driver and it's been down 2 weeks now, my wife is tired of driving back and forth to work plus her going to work.

JSmee99T/A

iTrader: (15)

so other than it possibly being worn out hydraulics, did you pump it ALOT like i said? the normal five pumps just doesnt cut it...sorry to be repetative but just want to make sure for you.

greysteel_M6

iTrader: (5)

I can't oversell these miti-vacs enough, bleeding can be an absolute bitch. Bleeding with the screw can be lengthy and if any air gets sucked back into the slave during the process, you might as well start again, relatively speaking with the vac, all you do is pop the hood. There's no telling how many people haven't been able to properly bleed the clutch and out of frustration and attempt to find the issue have wound up pulling their trany's looking for the problem.

copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

I've tried bleeding the clutch every way I can think of. I've tried the 5-pump, 15-pump and 30 pump methods but still nothing. I put the new master cylinder in today, tried bleeding it and I'm still in the same boat. I have my buddy Paul coming to help tomorrow with his miti-vac so hopefully that works. If not, I already have a new GM slave cylinder that we'll try to put in and see if it helps. After that, I've replaced pretty much the whole system. It'll be on it's way to the shop to have a pro figure it out.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Dis-connect the Slave, pump the Clutch until it gets hard and have someone depress the end of the line with a Screwdriver(or whatever works) and push the Clutch to the floor when it's open to push out all the air. Repeat this as necessary until all the Air is out, and you build up pressure to where you can't move the Clutch Petal at all, it will be solid. Then connect the Slave Cylinder in to it and try that.

Jrp1978

iTrader: (10)

Stop wasting your time take the slave cylinder out like someone already recommended and bench bleed it . Put it back in car and bleed from the side of the belhousing and boom you are done .

copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I replaced the slave cylinder, bench bled it, gravity bleed it and regularly bleed it yesterday and now the car is at least drivable. The only thing is that it's pre-engaging way early. If the rear tires are in the air, I put it in gear and hold the clutch to the floor, the tires roll. Also, while i'm driving it, I have to keep the RPMs low. It will only go into gear if it's below 2,300rpm's and you have to be careful putting it into gear. I'm pretty sure it just needs shimmed but I'm taking it tomorrow to this shop to get bleed buy a pro. If it still doesn't shift right, then the slave just needs shimmed. We'll see how tomorrow goes.

toneloc60

iTrader: (7)

I had this same problem!

When I replaced my clutch I put the updated slave in. Well, while bleeding it, I think I ran the master dry. I had a guy who knew these cars come over to take a look and he told me to get the front of the car at least 3 feet off the ground and start bleeding. That would get the air out of the master. (You have to pump the **** out of it! Get under the car, crack open the bleeder and put your finger over the hole, then have a buddy pump the hell out of the pedal. The fluid will go past your finger while he pushes down, but your finger will plug the hole as he pulls the pedal back up.)

DO NOT LET THE MASTER GO DRY!!!

After running about three master's worth of fluid through it, put the front down and lift the back of the car 3 feet in the air. This will get the slave higher than the master and help get air out of the slave. Now, repeat the process with bleeding. When you start to get a pedal, go to conventional bleeding by opening and closing the bleeder for each pedal movement.

This can all go faster with a MightyVac. But, it's still a painful process. I thought mine would never bleed.

Good luck!

copteezer496

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!!!! I'll have to try that.