Drill mod finished, want to add some info.
09-22-2008, 08:23 PM
#1
Drill mod finished, want to add some info. Well, just got my first t-56 f-body about a month ago. I figured it didn't have the drill mod done since it was bone stock except for a lid, so I looked at installuniversity's how to and gave it a go.
Well, I ran into a few problems here and there and actual work time ended up to be about 3.5 hours, and could have been a lot quicker with a helping hand. But, as I ran into a few problems I had to come back and search the forums for some help, and luckily found it. I also did a few things different that I think made the whole thing easier. So, I figured I'd post up a little thread here on the things I ran into to help out someone else if they search.
STAR WASHER
First off is the star washer. That thing was a PIA. There is a metal bracket that lies between the nut and the firewall. This bracket is welded to the dash area and cannot be removed easy. So, Here's what I did. I took a medium size hammer and got the claw behind the bracket and pulled it away from the firewall and over top of the bolt. While I had it away from the firewall I had access to the star washer. So, with my other hand I used a long flat-head screwdriver to get between the "stars" and twist it until it snapped apart. Then, it's just simply pulling it off the bolt.
HEAT SHIELD REMOVAL
I had a little problem with the heat shield due to not having a 1/4" drive set. Just a little tip....if all you got is 3/8" ratchet then an extension and swivel will get it out very easily.
REMOVING MASTER CYLINDER IN ONE PIECE.
Now here was a fun part. I love the directions on installuniversity...." Pull the master cylinder out and back up". Kinda vague. But I didn't want a mess, so I needed it to come out with the reservoir. So, what you need to do is work the reservoir down and to the right of the brake booster. You do this by carefully maneuvering it around some wiring and other tubes so that it is free to move behind the booster. Then, you need to push it down so that it sits right next to where the master cylinder is. That way it'll pull right out with the master. I personally removed the master cylinder by myself simply by pulling out from the engine bay and then pushing some from under the dash...just going back and forth between the two. There's no simple way for this, just pull it away from the firewall and down until you've cleared the arm out of the firewall.
BENCH BLEEDING!!
There was a reason I wanted the master out in one piece!! The beauty of having the quick disconnect at the tranny is that you can reinstall the master (or new one that's been pre-bled) without having to bleed the clutch. Of course this won't work if you're install all new stuff. But if your only goal is the drill mod, listen in.
This is how I bench bled the master, you don't have to do it this way...but it worked for me. First off.....I wanted all the old fluid out. So, I emptied out the reservoir and the braided line. The way I opened up the quick disconnect fitting was using a small screwdriver and pushed the valve open. When I got the old fluid out, then I put the master in a vise. I placed it so that the arm was facing straight up. Then I positioned some random objects so that the reservoir was up high, slightly higher than the master. Then I filled a small bowl with some new brake fluid. I filled the reservoir with the brake fluid and closed it shut. Now this is where some good dexterity will help! With one hand I held the quick disconnect in the bowl, under the brake fluid. With some fingers of the SAME hand, I pushed in the valve with that little screw driver. Now with my other hand I began pumping the master slowly until there was no more bubbles and a steady stream of fluid was coming out. Now, don't be scared when some old nasty fluid also comes out. But, an extra hand always helps with this too. Now you have a bench bled master that can simply be installed.
REINSTALLING MASTER AND RESERVOIR.
Now I looked at what was ahead and thought to myself "how will I install it as a whole like I removed it". Then after looking at it for a few minutes I thought of something. Why not relocate HOW the reservoir ends up in it's stock location? Duh!! This one is real simple. Install the master, which is a pain and you WILL need two people (had to end up calling a friend to come over and help just for this). After it's installed, unbolt the brake master cylinder from the booster. Move the brake master out slightly. Now, you got enough room to slide the reservoir under the brake master and into it's stock location. TA DA!!! After that, simply run the line under the booster and make sure it's not kinked or rubbing on anything. Now, I haven't searched to see if someone else suggested this, but I feel like this is a fairly easy solution.
Now I know installuniversity's write states that you can't connect the quick disconnect line back in without cracking the bleeder. But, I didn't have a problem at all, and actually had to do it twice, with no problems. So if someone could explain why it can't be done, I'm willing to listen. But, I was able to do it. The best part.....no bleeding the clutch! Clutch even had better pressure than before (I attest that to fresh fluid and the drill mod though). But after a quick test run....there's definitely a big difference. I can't quite get a super fast power shift like I can in other cars (Shelby gt500 for example), but they aren't the granny shift that I had to do at wot like before. I'm guessing that with 90,000+ miles on the tranny the synchros might have seen better days
.
But there ya go, a little addition to help out some people who use installuniversity's write up for the drill mod. Just to let ya'll know, I'm not saying installuniversity's write up sucks. It is a great write up and that, along with the many other write ups they've done, has help me and tons of other f-body owners. This is just a little addition to add more details to some steps, and prevent the need for bleeding the clutch if you're just doing the drill mod.
Well, I ran into a few problems here and there and actual work time ended up to be about 3.5 hours, and could have been a lot quicker with a helping hand. But, as I ran into a few problems I had to come back and search the forums for some help, and luckily found it. I also did a few things different that I think made the whole thing easier. So, I figured I'd post up a little thread here on the things I ran into to help out someone else if they search.
STAR WASHER
First off is the star washer. That thing was a PIA. There is a metal bracket that lies between the nut and the firewall. This bracket is welded to the dash area and cannot be removed easy. So, Here's what I did. I took a medium size hammer and got the claw behind the bracket and pulled it away from the firewall and over top of the bolt. While I had it away from the firewall I had access to the star washer. So, with my other hand I used a long flat-head screwdriver to get between the "stars" and twist it until it snapped apart. Then, it's just simply pulling it off the bolt.
HEAT SHIELD REMOVAL
I had a little problem with the heat shield due to not having a 1/4" drive set. Just a little tip....if all you got is 3/8" ratchet then an extension and swivel will get it out very easily.
REMOVING MASTER CYLINDER IN ONE PIECE.
Now here was a fun part. I love the directions on installuniversity...." Pull the master cylinder out and back up". Kinda vague. But I didn't want a mess, so I needed it to come out with the reservoir. So, what you need to do is work the reservoir down and to the right of the brake booster. You do this by carefully maneuvering it around some wiring and other tubes so that it is free to move behind the booster. Then, you need to push it down so that it sits right next to where the master cylinder is. That way it'll pull right out with the master. I personally removed the master cylinder by myself simply by pulling out from the engine bay and then pushing some from under the dash...just going back and forth between the two. There's no simple way for this, just pull it away from the firewall and down until you've cleared the arm out of the firewall.
BENCH BLEEDING!!
There was a reason I wanted the master out in one piece!! The beauty of having the quick disconnect at the tranny is that you can reinstall the master (or new one that's been pre-bled) without having to bleed the clutch. Of course this won't work if you're install all new stuff. But if your only goal is the drill mod, listen in.
This is how I bench bled the master, you don't have to do it this way...but it worked for me. First off.....I wanted all the old fluid out. So, I emptied out the reservoir and the braided line. The way I opened up the quick disconnect fitting was using a small screwdriver and pushed the valve open. When I got the old fluid out, then I put the master in a vise. I placed it so that the arm was facing straight up. Then I positioned some random objects so that the reservoir was up high, slightly higher than the master. Then I filled a small bowl with some new brake fluid. I filled the reservoir with the brake fluid and closed it shut. Now this is where some good dexterity will help! With one hand I held the quick disconnect in the bowl, under the brake fluid. With some fingers of the SAME hand, I pushed in the valve with that little screw driver. Now with my other hand I began pumping the master slowly until there was no more bubbles and a steady stream of fluid was coming out. Now, don't be scared when some old nasty fluid also comes out. But, an extra hand always helps with this too. Now you have a bench bled master that can simply be installed.
REINSTALLING MASTER AND RESERVOIR.
Now I looked at what was ahead and thought to myself "how will I install it as a whole like I removed it". Then after looking at it for a few minutes I thought of something. Why not relocate HOW the reservoir ends up in it's stock location? Duh!! This one is real simple. Install the master, which is a pain and you WILL need two people (had to end up calling a friend to come over and help just for this). After it's installed, unbolt the brake master cylinder from the booster. Move the brake master out slightly. Now, you got enough room to slide the reservoir under the brake master and into it's stock location. TA DA!!! After that, simply run the line under the booster and make sure it's not kinked or rubbing on anything. Now, I haven't searched to see if someone else suggested this, but I feel like this is a fairly easy solution.
Now I know installuniversity's write states that you can't connect the quick disconnect line back in without cracking the bleeder. But, I didn't have a problem at all, and actually had to do it twice, with no problems. So if someone could explain why it can't be done, I'm willing to listen. But, I was able to do it. The best part.....no bleeding the clutch! Clutch even had better pressure than before (I attest that to fresh fluid and the drill mod though). But after a quick test run....there's definitely a big difference. I can't quite get a super fast power shift like I can in other cars (Shelby gt500 for example), but they aren't the granny shift that I had to do at wot like before. I'm guessing that with 90,000+ miles on the tranny the synchros might have seen better days
.But there ya go, a little addition to help out some people who use installuniversity's write up for the drill mod. Just to let ya'll know, I'm not saying installuniversity's write up sucks. It is a great write up and that, along with the many other write ups they've done, has help me and tons of other f-body owners. This is just a little addition to add more details to some steps, and prevent the need for bleeding the clutch if you're just doing the drill mod.
09-22-2008, 09:42 PM
#2
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Hey good writeup. I just finished my drill mod and put in my new McLeod adjustable master. My engine was out of the car so my situation was quite a bit simpler 
Were you able to get your clutch pedal spring out without breaking it? Mine broke almost immediately when I pushed in the sides. It's a $30.00 + spring from GM at discount and forget about getting the center pedal bushing because GM doesn't make it anymore. Either replace the spring if you want to or just run the pedal without it like every other M6 driver is doing these days. Feet on the headrest and head on the floorboard isn't fun... and for you stocky broad shouldered guys out there like me, you will have a real fun time getting to the clutch pedal spring without saying every curse word in the book.
Were you able to get your clutch pedal spring out without breaking it? Mine broke almost immediately when I pushed in the sides. It's a $30.00 + spring from GM at discount and forget about getting the center pedal bushing because GM doesn't make it anymore. Either replace the spring if you want to or just run the pedal without it like every other M6 driver is doing these days. Feet on the headrest and head on the floorboard isn't fun... and for you stocky broad shouldered guys out there like me, you will have a real fun time getting to the clutch pedal spring without saying every curse word in the book.
09-23-2008, 06:45 PM
#3
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Just as a side tip, you really dont need two people to install the master. I did it solo, my first time ever installing one too.
The trick is to use some sort of twine or fishing line or something of the sort. I used some old floating fly line from a reel I have to replace anyhow. I cut about a 10 foot section off, fished it through the hole in the firewall and tied the other end onto the rod on the master. Through some careful wiggling and tugging on the fishing line I was able to rather easily guide the master into the hole in the firewall.
The trick is to use some sort of twine or fishing line or something of the sort. I used some old floating fly line from a reel I have to replace anyhow. I cut about a 10 foot section off, fished it through the hole in the firewall and tied the other end onto the rod on the master. Through some careful wiggling and tugging on the fishing line I was able to rather easily guide the master into the hole in the firewall.
09-23-2008, 07:55 PM
#4
Just as a side tip, you really dont need two people to install the master. I did it solo, my first time ever installing one too.
The trick is to use some sort of twine or fishing line or something of the sort. I used some old floating fly line from a reel I have to replace anyhow. I cut about a 10 foot section off, fished it through the hole in the firewall and tied the other end onto the rod on the master. Through some careful wiggling and tugging on the fishing line I was able to rather easily guide the master into the hole in the firewall.
The trick is to use some sort of twine or fishing line or something of the sort. I used some old floating fly line from a reel I have to replace anyhow. I cut about a 10 foot section off, fished it through the hole in the firewall and tied the other end onto the rod on the master. Through some careful wiggling and tugging on the fishing line I was able to rather easily guide the master into the hole in the firewall.
09-23-2008, 07:55 PM
#5
Hey good writeup. I just finished my drill mod and put in my new McLeod adjustable master. My engine was out of the car so my situation was quite a bit simpler Were you able to get your clutch pedal spring out without breaking it? Mine broke almost immediately when I pushed in the sides. It's a $30.00 + spring from GM at discount and forget about getting the center pedal bushing because GM doesn't make it anymore. Either replace the spring if you want to or just run the pedal without it like every other M6 driver is doing these days. Feet on the headrest and head on the floorboard isn't fun... and for you stocky broad shouldered guys out there like me, you will have a real fun time getting to the clutch pedal spring without saying every curse word in the book.
Were you able to get your clutch pedal spring out without breaking it? Mine broke almost immediately when I pushed in the sides. It's a $30.00 + spring from GM at discount and forget about getting the center pedal bushing because GM doesn't make it anymore. Either replace the spring if you want to or just run the pedal without it like every other M6 driver is doing these days. Feet on the headrest and head on the floorboard isn't fun... and for you stocky broad shouldered guys out there like me, you will have a real fun time getting to the clutch pedal spring without saying every curse word in the book.
