djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

I have a 96 camaro and I read somewhere's that I am not suppose to use synthetic fluid pre-01(I think). Now is that pre-01 ls1 style t-56 or is that absolutely everything before 2001. I can't remember if I last used synthetic or not. If I did can I switch mine or do I now have to keep using it. Also if I do somehow remember that I did not use synthetic what do you guys recommend? Thanks.

mrhzk35404

iTrader: (7)

Regular

SladeX

Well I put synthetic in my 98 before my rebuild and I use synthetic after that. If it's any consolation, my T-56 was remarked to have looked like it was babied on when I had the internals inspected despite the 100k on it.

There was some issue with certain synthetics messing up the paper based blocker rings of sorts, but personally I had no issue with it and still have the parts in the garage showing what synthetic will do. Nothing!

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

Well it would appear that you were lucky enough to pick a synthetic that didn't damage your paper-lined blocker rings. This is hardly a reason to suggest synthetics to someone else. Especially when there are MANY docimented cases of blocker ring carnage with synthetics. Save $$ and your trans =use DexIII.

djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

I'm trying to find the last bottles I used to see if it was synthetic or not, is it going to hurt to switch back to regular?

SladeX

Documented or internet forum users, there's a big difference between the vocal few and statistics. Especially since I had a stock 98 transmission that hadn't even seen it's drain plug cracked open since I got it which I subsequently went for Mobil 1 and Amsoil as my first choices for synthetic.

What you may be referring to is the use of Redline and Royal Purple of which the redline in particular HAS been documented by GM as a warranty voiding oil as its hygroscopic nature is what brings in the water into the system. It's also NOT API approved as well.

My recomendation would be GM Syncromesh which is really Penzoil Syncromesh, Mobil 1 and finally Amsoil for a fluid. I've also had success with regular off the shelf Shell transmission fluid but noticed that under colder weather until the transmission was warmed up, it was notchier than normal.

I also still have my blocker rings in the garage which after 100k showed NO additional wear than age despite having an additional 25k put on them with so called blocker ring eating Mobil 1. If it is Dexron III fluid, then it should thanks to API standards work just as well as ANY dexron III fluid for your transmission.

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

No ,I stated documentation as in with my own eyes. Not a vocal few, or the load 1 . Ya that is a big difference.I've been working with T56s from day 1, I do know what I am talking about. I think its great to report your good fortunes with non approved oils. Again you were lucky. Your experience is not the norm and offering that limited experience as a guidance to others is why I took it to task. Oil type in a transmission is really more important than your limited experience. It does people a dis service to steer them anywhere based on that.
I stand by a real suggestion and state one should stick with the simple( and cheaper) DEXIII spec ATF as spelled out in your manual written by the GM people who validated and warranted the car..

1sick'98WS6

iTrader: (19)

I used dextron for a long time then swithched to honda's ATF like Zf1 or something, Its supposed to be easier on your seals, and I like the way it shifts better, alot smoother feeling.

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

the reason not to use synthetics is that since the synthetic is so smooth the syncros cant slow down fast enough to engage the gears, so then there is extra wear on the syncros

SladeX

Honestly, what you are stating isn't the norm either. You're slamming Mobil 1 and Amsoil without any definitive proof. Both of those adhere to Dexron III specifications. You can't lump the recommendation into "All synthetics" and "all Dexron III" as that is inaccurate in itself unless you have definitive documentation showing that each and every synthetic WILL eat paper blocker rings.

Granted you may have worked with a lot of T-56 transmissions, but did you link every single blocker ring failure to a specific formula of synthetic? It's too broad of you to make claims just as it is simplistic of me to say that he can use Mobil 1 or Amsoil.

The middle line is that there exists certain synthetics that MAY cause blocker ring failure, but not for the reasons specified.

You have to take into account the climates that these cars are driven, the maintenance record, chemical analysis, and even the largest variable the person driving before you can come to a definitive conclusion that "All synthetics are bad".

I on the other hand have stated that certain synthetics ARE Dexron III certified, and as they adhere to those standards will act in the same manner as any Dexron III fluid with regards to how the internal components will be lubricated. That is what it means to have a standard, that you have a choice.

He should be able to switch between any Dexron III fluid any only notice the savings or loss in his wallet. Unless he drives in a cool climate where negative temps are possible, odds are he won't notice a difference between the fluids.

Your suggestion is no more a service or disservice than my suggestion, so get off your holier than thou attitude. On the net anyone can have 50 years experience and it can mean squat. All we can do is suggest things based on experience. Before you go off on a rant, you made it a point to belittle my experience then invalidate my "suggestion". You can state what you think, but don't attack the last guy, come up with your reasoning and state your opinion. I didn't see any documentation either in your post, all that was said was another version of "experience". I didn't make my suggestion to be the law. I made a suggestion based on experience so he would know that there are people who use x oil and are fine.

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

"Holier than thou" Wow, you really missed the point. You are right anyone can come on here and make any unsupported claim. It hardly makes a difference if "you really meant it" and you claim to have hard& fast proof. The fact is , on the basis of one lucky experience , taken at your description, you somehow qualify yourself to expertice. You right this is the internet. I was bring back home a more reasoned and factual approach to an oil choice.
I never ragged Mobil 1. In fact I have suggested it be used where some one had to spend more money and had to have a synthetic. It does perform worse( than spec oil) cold and thats why I would rank it #1. Synchromesh is a dyno/ synthetic blend and also too thick in the cold.
The major flaw of some synthetics is not this cold performance hit. It is not a poorer synchonizing. It IS that they cause the linings if the synchonizers to come appart/ disolve.
Take this for what it is .If you think thats holier , so be it .I really don't care.

SladeX

Once again, you state it "dissolves" the paper lining a blocker ring and I can show you ALL of the paper blocker rings in my transmission that will discount that claim that "All synthetics dissolve older paper based blocker rings". They spent a year and a half soaked in synthetic AND was driven.

Logic states that unless you can prove ALL instances of "synthetic oil breaks down paper blocker rings" then you can't claim that to be fact. It also means that maybe there must be another reason for this to be happening. You can't discount that concept.

I should restate (as I have in previous posts) that certain synthetics are fine for our transmission. It's a suggestion, its not fact, anyone can do whatever they want with my opinion. I'm not forcing it like you are to prove that you are right. I also made the suggestion that regular Dexron III is also fine too. I just found in my experience and in colder climate that it was notchier, but shifted fine otherwise. Once again, something that can be used or not used, I don't care. I just want to throw out a suggestion, not a disservice. Will the world fall apart from "my suggestion"? No. Will a person's transmission explode? No. Everyone's driving style and transmission condition is different. Who knows what's on their way out?

You seem to keep bringing about price into the matter, and we're in a hobby where we pay to play. This is the internet and I know you won't stop until you are right or I agree you are right. I've seen people like you over the past 10 years in forums like this and I'm still around and active in the f-body world despite that. I'm done with this thread.

BALLSS

FWIW redline D4 (full synthetic) states on bottle "also satisfies API 70W80"

I have under 10,000 miles on my T-56 which was purchased new from D&D in 2006. I put in Dexron 3 and did notice initial cold shifts (not really cold weather here in California) were "notchy". Went with Redline D4 and that went away.

I have "heard/read" on forums, and this thread, that "synthetic" can/does cause damage to certain parts (paper in blocker rings). 2 people on this thread post opposite views on this matter.

is there a year break where the T56 had materials in them that were sensitive to synthetics (before 1994 or?)?

just a car enthusiast who converted a 4L60E car to T-56 and by no means a "expert" but would like some valid confirmation on the dyno vs synthetic thing.

FWIW D&D advises dexron 3 but said redline and other types are "OK". They never said if I used synthetic that my warrenty would be void.