UGotBeaT

Alright I have about 1100 bucks to spend on my 98 A4 Trans am but im not exactly sure what I want to get. I know im getting a Ls6 Intake for 50 bucks from a friend and hes also sellin a midwest 3600 stall converter for 380 and both are slightly used but im not sure if I want to get the stall. I know I want a cam and headers and electric cut outs but dont know what else to get. Also my friend has the gm hot cam in his 2000 t/a and i like the way it idles...and was wondering what makes it idle like that cause I was wanting one like his but with a bigger lift and valve duration, like whats the best cam I can get with stock heads and I dont really care about driveability. Oh yeh All i have on my car are flowmasters w/ a whisper lid and K&N air filter and a JET chip and for looks I got eibach springs with chrome ZR1 wheels and that aftermarket ws6 hood thats like 2-3 inches then the factory one. Oh yeh one more question...If I remove that A.I.R system from my t/a and I still have my cats does it really matter will it affect performance or what?

Thanks to all those that hopefully will relpy

UGotBeaT

Oh yeh If I get that stall wont I need some nitto drag radials to hook cause all I ahve is falken tires and I have to launch at about 1200 or ill spin pretty bad

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Buy a NX Nitrous system. Put at least 100 hrs pills in it (I run the 150 Pills) and go smoke all your buddys *****. The NX is the best bang for the buck. And you will defenatly knowtest the difference!!

jrp

iTrader: (16)

definately get some LT's, i'd go with pacesetters or Jet Hots cuz of the price and there excellent headers. If you dont need to pass emissions then you can gut the cats on your stock Y or pick up an ORY, hooker seems to be a popular choice.

you say you dont care about drivebility of a cam but i bet that will get old after a week . with your a4 i'd go with a 220-224 cam on a 112-114 lsa. i dont no the lsa (lobe seperation angle) on the hot cam but a 112 will sound nice . the lower the lsa though and the bigger the duration the hard it is to get to idle and drive with an a4, or so i've heard, keep that in mind. tuning with cure alot of it but still.

with flowmasters,whisper lid and K&N air filter, JET chip (get a real tune with ls1 edit ), LT, ls6 intake, stall, mild cam you should be set up nicely

you can also get an ASP UD, pulley, ported TB, ect

UGotBeaT

Well Whats the best cam out there that I can use with my stock heads...i really wouldnt get old of the cam cause I love the way it idles and sounds. If lets say i get a good cam like maybe a MTI C2 cam, will I need to get valve springs and rods and titanium retainers or what?

I want hooker long tube headers but for the price I think id rather get the black coated ones..but is there a difference between the black adn ceramic coated ones as in performance?

Im not sure If I really want that stall its a midwest 3600 and he said its slightly used but wont I need slicks or nittos just to hook up?

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

keep it simple right now.

A stall converter lid, exhaust, and nitrous along with some good sticky tires is plenty to hold off 95% of people you'll be running into.

Do not buy a cam cause you like the way it sounds. Its not exactly easy to change out a cam.

I'll say this before you start asking more questions, read up do research all the questions you have asked have already been asked a 1000 times before. Use the search button.

Black coated headers will rust. Ceramic will protect against elements and helps the exhaust gases evacuate better.

I'm not a fan of putting used parts in a car, especially tranny parts.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

do alot of research on cams before you choose yours, this is plenty of info here and on ls1.com. your cam selection will determine how much of the valvetrain needs to be upgraded, springs are a minimum though.

also spring for the ceramic coating, like that other dude said it'll protect from rust and keep them looking . the pace coated LT's are your best bet for price on a coated lt'.

UGotBeaT

I really dont want nitrous on my car cause just for some reason i dont like it plus my car has 83k miles. I dont want a cam just cause I like the way it sounds I just want more power to the ground and I think that would solve a little bit of my problem along with some headers and electric cut outs and that ls6 intake and some sticky tires I think im all good

jrp

iTrader: (16)

headers and cam are two the main hp mods you can add. you can always go with an ls6 cam or gm hot cam or TR220 or other milder cams that will give you 20+rwhp and still give you that stock sounding idle and drivebility.

UGotBeaT

hey jrp where did u get your jet hot long tubes and how much were they?

DD966

iTrader: (3)

If you're already spinning at low rpms you are gonna need tires (I know the feeling). The only place I like to race is the track. If that's what you have in mind, I suggest buying DR's. Then I recommend suspension mods (if you don't already have them) to get more of that power to the ground, especially if you're thinking about adding the stall converter. Good Luck

jrp

iTrader: (16)

i actually picked up the headers and Y from a board member here, 600 for both , they were only used for 4 months.

you can get them from jet hot for around 500 or so shipped.

darrensformula

I would definately get a torque converter. I'm not sure about midwest quality but for $500 you can get a new TCI SSF3500 that will kick some major booty on the street or the track. That with a trans go shiftkit and tranny cooler will cost you $700 for parts and $350 for labor. That would be the biggest bang for the buck mods you could do.

You'll drop .5 from your ET, lose all your dead spots and feel like you have a completly new car.

XFACTOR

I would say a good set of LT's would be a great plus!!!!!!

White Fire'99

iTrader: (15)

1.Torque Converter

2.Traction

best mod for an A4 is a stall hands down. get something in the 3200 and up region for the street and 3800 and up for the track. you say you want to put more power to the ground, well do the stall! it will wake up the car. you have an untapped resource there. then do the engine mods. i dropped 7 tenths with a 3500 stall and traction! don't know if i'd go used though.

Bowtieman4life

iTrader: (1)

In this order
1. LS6 intake because it's too cheap to pass up.
2. Converter and some ET Streets. ($700).5
3. Jet Hot header (coated) ($500).3

Thay's nearly a second off you 1/4 mile.


Opps money is all gone.

onyxxtreme

iTrader: (4)

do not remove your AIR system if you keep your Cat's
The AIR system helps heat the cats up on startup, which is necessary to keep them working properly.

B-MAN

torque converter
headers
good rubber
MAS flow sensor
these will give you results within your budget
good luck

UGotBeaT

yeh Im sure Ill get that Ls6 intake and probably a stall and some ET streets cause everytime i race in the street i cant get traction worth **** and its gettin on my nerves cause everybodY Usually beats me cause of traction.

Moddin my car is gettin hard to think about cause Im not sure which to get, but I know for sure im gettin that ls6 intake. I can get any kinda tires pretty damn cheap cause my friend knows the manager at discount tire and can get me any kinda tires like some ET streets or some nitto drag radials. My main concern right now is hookin up cause I spin pretty bad. I usually dont go to the track hardly just mostly street racin. I have one more question, i can also get a trans go shift kit and its still brand new in the box and can get it well below from what they sell for, but would that make much of a difference?

So lets see Ls6 intake - 50 bucks
Stall - 500-600??
ET Streets - prolly about 150-200 for a pair or less
so that means about 400 more bucks which ill prolly get some pacesetter long tube headers?

B-MAN

ET streets on a stock rear-end is not a good thing
OEM rear-ends on our cars can break very easily with tires like that.It is just a matter of time specially on a treated track