kbras12

iTrader: (1)

Where can i find all the parts for a rebuild and how much am i looking at to get it done?

conan

iTrader: (5)

Are you talking a full rebuild... New crank, rod, cam bearings, hone, ballancing, pistions rings, full engine gasket kit. ect ect.

kbras12

iTrader: (1)

im talking a full rebuild

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

First off have the Block Honed & Vatted at the Machine Shop, with new Cam Bearings installed.

This is what I would do..
Stock Re-build:
Label each Rod & Cap to what # Cylinder it is
Get new Main and Rod Bearings
Polish Crank Journals, re-size Rods
Put new Rings on Pistons
New Oil Pump, preferably High Volume
New LS7 Lifters
New LS2 Timing Chain
New Head Gaskets
Mill Heads a little bit to ensure they are flat
Clean everything well

Upgraded Re-build:
Same as above, except add..
Forged Crank, Rods, and Pistons(if you want to go this far, might as well build you a Stroker)
Get it all Balanced by Machine Shop
Aftermarket Cam
Hardened Pushrods
Upgrade Valve Springs

That's a pretty good list..I'm sure someone else with have a couple to add..

conan

iTrader: (5)

Good list ^^^ If your keeping stock cubes just have the stock crank polished and get some forged rods and pistons and have it ballanced. What are your goals with this car and what kind of budget are you on?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

^^That's what I did with my LT1 that I had before I built this Stroker Engine.
I had the Stock Crank, Forged Rods & Pistons, it was Balanced, 4-Bolt Main Block, new Bearings and Rings. It was a runner.

kbras12

iTrader: (1)

Im not on a very deep budget. I looking at getting four hundred horses with bolt ons right now. I want to rebuild this girl this summer.

conan

iTrader: (5)

If 400-450 rwhp is going to be your final goal I would reuse your rotating assembly and get the block honed replace all the bearings (cam, crank, rods) New piston rings. Add a ported oil pump, Ls2 timing chain, new lifters and trays, Stick in a nice cam, get the heads cleaned up or get a head and cam pacage and reuse all your boltons.

Plaugher4

iTrader: (2)

I dont mean to hijack the thread but what will be the most reliable way to go? With all forged internals will the reliability still be there?

conan

iTrader: (5)

The ls1 in its stock form is prety tough. Alot of them have lived at 500rwhp for a long time. The reliability of forged internals realy shines with power adders. If your not looking for major power the stock internals will last 150k miles if taken care of. So for the original poster being on a budget and not wanting to go to crazy the stock internals will work just fine for a long time.

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

we over looked the question of how much its actually gonna cost. ive got intentions of rebuilding my ls1 if my ship date isnt changed for basic, so im kinda wondering the same thing. my budget isnt too deep either.

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

also can an ls1 be bored 30 over? i assume it would be ok, but from what ive read there is a sleeve in the cylinder walls, but idk the thickness of the factory sleeves. any thoughts here?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You cant bore for the sake of boring, so to speak. You take as little as possible. These arent SBCs.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

.010 over..some can take .020..and that's pushin it.

texas twister

not on a ls1 block

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

ive only rebuilt sbc's. kind of unfamiliar with the ls1. with that said, just cut the ridge, hone the cylinder walls and leave it at that? or would there be much of a ridge to cut? 175k on the motor.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Im not machinist, but, I know there isnt much material there to take bc its a steel sleeve. If you take a good bit the first time and then later down the road there is any cylinder wall damage then your block is trashed. Its one of those cases where less is definitely more.