alittle1

Went out to start car and wouldn't even click, radio time was even on. Slow charged battery for 24 hours, started right up. Next weekend, dead again. Put in 1000 CCA battery, rebuilt alternator (bridge rectifier was fried). Went to start next weekend, battery dead. Checked all lights and switches, trunk lights, etc for sticky switch or light on, horn beeps twice when door remote is locked. Pulled neg. (-) cable off the battery, left for week and started right up.

What's killing the battery?

turbov6bryan

Hey newb I suggest to check the OH SO SIMPLE things. I have a 98 but just purchased it this past month, no too hip on all the lights and wiring..

But i would pull the car in the DARK GARAGE and check for lights staying on, you wouldnt believe a simple console 3 amp light would kill a battery oh so soon.
Just look the car over from the outside after its been sitting, some console lights stay to the on position over a few years.

If all else fails, your batt and alt seem fine, id look to a key off drain as in aftermarket stereo, alarm, or a few other things that could be found with a digital multimeter

If you need more help, let me know, turbov6bryan@live.com

BW

alittle1

In order to find my battery draw that was killing the battery over a span of a couple of days, I did the following Parasitic Draw Test.


Test 1

Multimeter attached to positive battery cable (+) and positive battery post of battery. The switch was set to the 20 scale of DCA sector and the reading was .27, no doors open, all fuses in.

Test 2

Reading .26, doors closed, #8 courtesy fuse pulled. Interior light went off when fuse pulled.

Test 3

Reading 2.38, door open.

Test 4

Reading .29/.30, door closed.

Test 5

Reading 0.03, door opened, #7 Pwr Accy fuse pulled.

Test 6

Reading remained at 0.03 while I pulled all the fuses, it then dropped to 0.00 when door was closed.

Test 8

Reading went to 0.01 when trunk lid was opened. Found out that the trunk light release bar at the rear trunk hold-down was catching on the upholstery panel and I repaired it and reading went to 0.00 again when closed.

Test 9

Reading went to 0.01 when passenger side door was opened and then back to 0.00 when closed. Driver's door was closed at the time.

Test 10

Reading 0.00, driver's and passenger door and trunk closed. No Draw.


Conclusion:

Parasitic draw occurs in # 8 Courtesy light and #7 Pwr Accy circuits. Have to pull bulbs from sockets and check where power is grounding to.

alittle1

Okay, so I re-installed all the fuses and I have a draw of 0.32, with just the #8 courtesy fuse in it reads 0.07 and with just the #7 Pwr Accy fuse in, it reads 0.27 .

I turned all the lights out in the garage and checked all the lights in the car, 2 on mirror, rear window, glove box; nothing remains on when I close the door.

The only lights in the car is the blinking red LED light for the factory alarm system located in the center defroster grille , and the radio clock display. Both go out when you pull the #7 and #8 fuses. With those two fuses out, meter reads 0.00.

Is that .32 killing the battery over 3 - 4 days time? I read somewhere average draw for a '98 - 02 Camaro was around o.30, does this seem right?

My next avenue is to pull one fuse at a time (of the # 7 & 8 fuses) with the cables done up and see when the battery dies.

alittle1

I read this in my manual:

Courtesy Lamps
When either door is opened, several interior lamps go
on. These lamps are courtesy lamps. They make it easier
for you to enter and leave your vehicle.
Courtesy lamps include two map lamps on the inside
rearview mirror and other lamps throughout the interior
of your vehicle.
To prevent battery rundown, your interior lamps will be
disabled about 10 minutes after the ignition is turned to
OFF. The 10-minute timer will be restarted if you do
any of the following:

Turn the ignition on.

Open either door.

Press any button on your remote keyless entry
transmitter (option).

Turn the interior lamps from off to on.

Open the hatch

...going to see if the mA's decrease after 10 minutes.

Dabom75

iTrader: (3)

My radio goes black when switch is off and after you open dorrs to kill the 10 minute timer they have that lets them run till door is opened.

My clock does not stay on so that may be your problem.

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

after 3 weeks of sitting, my battery is usually pretty drained. car doors will open with the remote, but when putting the key to the on position, i'll hear stuff cutting out and it only clicks (if it gets that far) when i try to start it. 2 weeks, i can usually get it to start (barely).

i either keep the negative battery cable disconnected (does the trick) or bring out the black and decker electromate and use the 450 amp jump starter. i find its easier to use the portable jump starter, but i wouldn't let the battery drain like that unless it had a good warranty.

billyb

iTrader: (15)

GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD TABLE (MILLIAMPS)
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
Normal Maximum Time-Out
Component Draw Draw (Minutes)
Anti-Theft System ................ 0.4 .... 1.0 ....... ...
Auto Door Lock ................... 1.0 .... 1.0 ....... ...
Body Control Module .............. 3.6 ... 12.4 ........ 20
Central Processing System ........ 1.6 .... 2.7 ........ 20
Electronic Control Module ........ 5.6 ... 10.0 ....... ...
Electronic Level Control ......... 2.0 .... 3.3 ........ 20
Heated Windshield Module ......... 0.3 .... 0.4 ....... ...
HVAC Power Module ................ 1.0 .... 1.0 ....... ...
Illuminated Entry ................ 1.0 .... 1.0 ......... 1
Light Control Module ............. 0.5 .... 1.0 ....... ...
Oil Level Module ................. 0.1 .... 0.1 ....... ...
Multi-Function Chime ............. 1.0 .... 1.0 ....... ...
Pass Key Decoder Module ......... 0.75 .... 1.0 ....... ...
Power Control Module ............. 5.0 .... 7.0 ....... ...
Retained Accessory Power ......... 3.8 .... 3.8 ....... ...
Radio ............................ 7.0 .... 8.0 ........ 15
Twilight Sentinel Module ......... 1.0 .... 1.0 ....... ...
Voltage Regulator ................ 1.4 .... 2.0 ....... ...
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ

billyb

iTrader: (15)

INTERMITTENT PARASITIC LOAD PROBLEMS
Intermittent parasitic lad can occur because of a memory
device that does not power down with ignition off. With an
intermittent parasitic load, battery draw can be greater than 1.0 amp.
To find and intermittent problem requires that an ammeter and
Disconnect Tool (J-38758) test switch be connected and left in the
circuit. See Fig. 1. Road test vehicle. After road test, turn ignition
off and remove key.
Monitor the milliamps scale for 15-20 minutes after ignition
is turned off. This allows monitoring memory devices to determine if
they time out and stop drawing memory current. The test switch is
needed to protect ammeter when the vehicles is started.
DIODE CHECK & SOLENOID TEST (GENERAL MOTORS