Storage - 9mo.? Too long?
04-15-2010, 10:09 PM
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Storage - 9mo.? Too long? I'm going to be out of the country for approx. 9 mo come this September and I'm considering storing the car for the entire time. Where the heck do I start? I've been looking at places that store vehicles. I found some for $90 and some for $120 per month. Do places like that take care of them (i.e. don't let the car just sit to avoid flat spots on tires, trickle charge/start the engine every once in awhile, etc.)
I don't even know where to start..... Help?
I don't even know where to start..... Help?
04-15-2010, 10:29 PM
#2
You'll get better advice than I will give you, but if it were my car? I'd just store it the way it is. It's not even a year. I'd just drive up, park it, and forget about it. In nine months, she'd fire right up and run and drive like I got out of her yesterday. Not a big deal.
04-15-2010, 10:38 PM
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I don't know of any place that will "maintain" the car for those prices. I'm sure it's just storage.
For a 9 month term I'd do the following to prep the car:
- Stabil in the gas. A proper doseage would keep fuel fresh for well over 9 months. Some places only let you keep about 1/4 tank of fuel, but if they don't care I'd make sure the tank is full (helps prevent moisture from developing).
- Remove the battery. I don't remove mine for storage, but mine is a situation where I have access to the car on a daily basis so I hook up a trickle charger every 3-4 weeks to keep it fresh.
- Interior mositure control. I don't know how damp (or controlled) the climate is where you plan to store the car, but I'd suggest something in the interior to prevent stale and/or mold based odors from developing during storage. I use a product called "Damp-Rid", they make a tub that fits perfectly in the center console cup holder of a 4th gen F-body. These tubs aren't very big so they need to be drained and refilled every so often, but since you won't be able to do that I'd recommend getting the larger sized tub and placing it on the floorboard (you could do a second small one on the center console as well).
- Tires. Modern radials won't develop a permanent flat spot in just 9 months (unless maybe it's a super-soft competition type tire). Any flat spotting will go away within a few miles of driving. However, to minimize this effect, you can air the tires up to their max rated PSI prior to storing the car. This is what I do, it works great. Whatever you do, DON'T set the car on blocks and allow the suspension to hang. This is not good for the shocks, they should not be fully extended for 9 months at a time.
- Coolant. If the car will be stored in a non-climate controlled facility, you need to make sure it's prepared for the potential of freezing weather (not sure how cold it gets in your region). Test your coolant, make sure it's up to the task.
- Rodent control. It's not a bad idea to stuff some foam or thick rags in the tailpipes to keep mice out. Sometimes they like to make a home in the muffler.
I think that should cover it.
For a 9 month term I'd do the following to prep the car:
- Stabil in the gas. A proper doseage would keep fuel fresh for well over 9 months. Some places only let you keep about 1/4 tank of fuel, but if they don't care I'd make sure the tank is full (helps prevent moisture from developing).
- Remove the battery. I don't remove mine for storage, but mine is a situation where I have access to the car on a daily basis so I hook up a trickle charger every 3-4 weeks to keep it fresh.
- Interior mositure control. I don't know how damp (or controlled) the climate is where you plan to store the car, but I'd suggest something in the interior to prevent stale and/or mold based odors from developing during storage. I use a product called "Damp-Rid", they make a tub that fits perfectly in the center console cup holder of a 4th gen F-body. These tubs aren't very big so they need to be drained and refilled every so often, but since you won't be able to do that I'd recommend getting the larger sized tub and placing it on the floorboard (you could do a second small one on the center console as well).
- Tires. Modern radials won't develop a permanent flat spot in just 9 months (unless maybe it's a super-soft competition type tire). Any flat spotting will go away within a few miles of driving. However, to minimize this effect, you can air the tires up to their max rated PSI prior to storing the car. This is what I do, it works great. Whatever you do, DON'T set the car on blocks and allow the suspension to hang. This is not good for the shocks, they should not be fully extended for 9 months at a time.
- Coolant. If the car will be stored in a non-climate controlled facility, you need to make sure it's prepared for the potential of freezing weather (not sure how cold it gets in your region). Test your coolant, make sure it's up to the task.
- Rodent control. It's not a bad idea to stuff some foam or thick rags in the tailpipes to keep mice out. Sometimes they like to make a home in the muffler.
I think that should cover it.
04-15-2010, 11:05 PM
#5
I- Remove the battery. I don't remove mine for storage, but mine is a situation where I have access to the car on a daily basis so I hook up a trickle charger every 3-4 weeks to keep it fresh.
- Tires. Modern radials won't develop a permanent flat spot in just 9 months (unless maybe it's a super-soft competition type tire). Any flat spotting will go away within a few miles of driving. However, to minimize this effect, you can air the tires up to their max rated PSI prior to storing the car. This is what I do, it works great. Whatever you do, DON'T set the car on blocks and allow the suspension to hang. This is not good for the shocks, they should not be fully extended for 9 months at a time.
I think that should cover it.
- Tires. Modern radials won't develop a permanent flat spot in just 9 months (unless maybe it's a super-soft competition type tire). Any flat spotting will go away within a few miles of driving. However, to minimize this effect, you can air the tires up to their max rated PSI prior to storing the car. This is what I do, it works great. Whatever you do, DON'T set the car on blocks and allow the suspension to hang. This is not good for the shocks, they should not be fully extended for 9 months at a time.
I think that should cover it.
I would put some wood under the tire while loading the suspension if you are worried about flat spots. Its a cheap measure to make sure it doesnt happen.
And, if removing the battery is to much, just unhook the positive. My car sat for 7 months on wood, with the battery just unhooked and it started right up. The condition of the battery will determine if you have to trickle charge it, IMO.
04-16-2010, 06:20 AM
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Along with those two.
I would put some wood under the tire while loading the suspension if you are worried about flat spots. Its a cheap measure to make sure it doesnt happen.
And, if removing the battery is to much, just unhook the positive. My car sat for 7 months on wood, with the battery just unhooked and it started right up. The condition of the battery will determine if you have to trickle charge it, IMO.
I would put some wood under the tire while loading the suspension if you are worried about flat spots. Its a cheap measure to make sure it doesnt happen.
And, if removing the battery is to much, just unhook the positive. My car sat for 7 months on wood, with the battery just unhooked and it started right up. The condition of the battery will determine if you have to trickle charge it, IMO.
04-16-2010, 08:36 AM
#7
I don't know of any place that will "maintain" the car for those prices. I'm sure it's just storage.
For a 9 month term I'd do the following to prep the car:
- Stabil in the gas. A proper doseage would keep fuel fresh for well over 9 months. Some places only let you keep about 1/4 tank of fuel, but if they don't care I'd make sure the tank is full (helps prevent moisture from developing).
- Remove the battery. I don't remove mine for storage, but mine is a situation where I have access to the car on a daily basis so I hook up a trickle charger every 3-4 weeks to keep it fresh.
- Interior mositure control. I don't know how damp (or controlled) the climate is where you plan to store the car, but I'd suggest something in the interior to prevent stale and/or mold based odors from developing during storage. I use a product called "Damp-Rid", they make a tub that fits perfectly in the center console cup holder of a 4th gen F-body. These tubs aren't very big so they need to be drained and refilled every so often, but since you won't be able to do that I'd recommend getting the larger sized tub and placing it on the floorboard (you could do a second small one on the center console as well).
- Tires. Modern radials won't develop a permanent flat spot in just 9 months (unless maybe it's a super-soft competition type tire). Any flat spotting will go away within a few miles of driving. However, to minimize this effect, you can air the tires up to their max rated PSI prior to storing the car. This is what I do, it works great. Whatever you do, DON'T set the car on blocks and allow the suspension to hang. This is not good for the shocks, they should not be fully extended for 9 months at a time.
- Coolant. If the car will be stored in a non-climate controlled facility, you need to make sure it's prepared for the potential of freezing weather (not sure how cold it gets in your region). Test your coolant, make sure it's up to the task.
- Rodent control. It's not a bad idea to stuff some foam or thick rags in the tailpipes to keep mice out. Sometimes they like to make a home in the muffler.
I think that should cover it.
For a 9 month term I'd do the following to prep the car:
- Stabil in the gas. A proper doseage would keep fuel fresh for well over 9 months. Some places only let you keep about 1/4 tank of fuel, but if they don't care I'd make sure the tank is full (helps prevent moisture from developing).
- Remove the battery. I don't remove mine for storage, but mine is a situation where I have access to the car on a daily basis so I hook up a trickle charger every 3-4 weeks to keep it fresh.
- Interior mositure control. I don't know how damp (or controlled) the climate is where you plan to store the car, but I'd suggest something in the interior to prevent stale and/or mold based odors from developing during storage. I use a product called "Damp-Rid", they make a tub that fits perfectly in the center console cup holder of a 4th gen F-body. These tubs aren't very big so they need to be drained and refilled every so often, but since you won't be able to do that I'd recommend getting the larger sized tub and placing it on the floorboard (you could do a second small one on the center console as well).
- Tires. Modern radials won't develop a permanent flat spot in just 9 months (unless maybe it's a super-soft competition type tire). Any flat spotting will go away within a few miles of driving. However, to minimize this effect, you can air the tires up to their max rated PSI prior to storing the car. This is what I do, it works great. Whatever you do, DON'T set the car on blocks and allow the suspension to hang. This is not good for the shocks, they should not be fully extended for 9 months at a time.
- Coolant. If the car will be stored in a non-climate controlled facility, you need to make sure it's prepared for the potential of freezing weather (not sure how cold it gets in your region). Test your coolant, make sure it's up to the task.
- Rodent control. It's not a bad idea to stuff some foam or thick rags in the tailpipes to keep mice out. Sometimes they like to make a home in the muffler.
I think that should cover it.
The only thing I would add is that it's best to keep your doors closed in the "first latch position". It keeps the pressure off the weather stripping since it's not being messaged on a daily basis.
And steel wool makes the best tailpipe stuffing - mice can't use it as a construction material.
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04-16-2010, 10:22 AM
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And good idea on the steel wool.
I've always used super dense foam and never had a problem, but I guess given enough time they could chew through that. Steel wool would be chew-proof. 
04-16-2010, 10:29 AM
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9 months is no time. Take the battery cables off, and maybe if its going to get cold take the battery out and leave it with someone who can keep in inside.
Plug the mufflers, throw some dryer sheets in the interior (keeps out the mice) and armorall any seals, leather, etc that could dryrot, but that might not even be necessary in the time you are talking about.
I'd also throw some plastic or a carpet remanent under the car if hot/cold swings are in your climate, as i didnt do this the first winter i stored my car, and the sweating cement in the spring rusted my ******* undercarriage. man was i pissed. This year i threw a piece of old carpet under, and didnt have any problems with surface rusting.
Plug the mufflers, throw some dryer sheets in the interior (keeps out the mice) and armorall any seals, leather, etc that could dryrot, but that might not even be necessary in the time you are talking about.
I'd also throw some plastic or a carpet remanent under the car if hot/cold swings are in your climate, as i didnt do this the first winter i stored my car, and the sweating cement in the spring rusted my ******* undercarriage. man was i pissed. This year i threw a piece of old carpet under, and didnt have any problems with surface rusting.
04-16-2010, 10:40 AM
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I'd also throw some plastic or a carpet remanent under the car if hot/cold swings are in your climate, as i didnt do this the first winter i stored my car, and the sweating cement in the spring rusted my ******* undercarriage. man was i pissed. This year i threw a piece of old carpet under, and didnt have any problems with surface rusting.
I didn't even think to mention this because I keep my cars parked on carpet year-round in the garage. But yes, this is a really good idea especially during rapid temp changes from season to season.
04-16-2010, 11:22 AM
#11
This is a great post. Storage questions come up often, this should be a sticky in the General Maintenance section.
The only thing I would add is that it's best to keep your doors closed in the "first latch position". It keeps the pressure off the weather stripping since it's not being messaged on a daily basis.
And steel wool makes the best tailpipe stuffing - mice can't use it as a construction material.
The only thing I would add is that it's best to keep your doors closed in the "first latch position". It keeps the pressure off the weather stripping since it's not being messaged on a daily basis.
And steel wool makes the best tailpipe stuffing - mice can't use it as a construction material.
What?
I wouldn't do that.. makes it easier to steal potentially ang makes an easier entry for bugs and ****.
I've never heard of doing that.
04-16-2010, 05:05 PM
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Why do so many people mention changing oil and whatnot prior to storing their vehicles? I guess 9 months seemed like a long time to me considering most store for the winter, which is ~4-5 months tops in Virginia.
What are most storage places like anyways? Just a normal storage unit that instead of putting junk and old bed frames in, you put your car in?
What are most storage places like anyways? Just a normal storage unit that instead of putting junk and old bed frames in, you put your car in?
04-16-2010, 09:55 PM
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You could go to a place like that, or (at least in my area) there are places that store only cars (big warehouse, climate controlled, like an in-door parking lot). I've had a house with a garage now for the last 10 years so it's been a very long time since I've had to rent storage.
04-17-2010, 10:15 AM
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04-18-2010, 03:55 PM
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I don't know of any place that will "maintain" the car for those prices. I'm sure it's just storage.
For a 9 month term I'd do the following to prep the car:
- Stabil in the gas. A proper doseage would keep fuel fresh for well over 9 months. Some places only let you keep about 1/4 tank of fuel, but if they don't care I'd make sure the tank is full (helps prevent moisture from developing).
- Remove the battery. I don't remove mine for storage, but mine is a situation where I have access to the car on a daily basis so I hook up a trickle charger every 3-4 weeks to keep it fresh.
- Interior mositure control. I don't know how damp (or controlled) the climate is where you plan to store the car, but I'd suggest something in the interior to prevent stale and/or mold based odors from developing during storage. I use a product called "Damp-Rid", they make a tub that fits perfectly in the center console cup holder of a 4th gen F-body. These tubs aren't very big so they need to be drained and refilled every so often, but since you won't be able to do that I'd recommend getting the larger sized tub and placing it on the floorboard (you could do a second small one on the center console as well).
- Tires. Modern radials won't develop a permanent flat spot in just 9 months (unless maybe it's a super-soft competition type tire). Any flat spotting will go away within a few miles of driving. However, to minimize this effect, you can air the tires up to their max rated PSI prior to storing the car. This is what I do, it works great. Whatever you do, DON'T set the car on blocks and allow the suspension to hang. This is not good for the shocks, they should not be fully extended for 9 months at a time.
- Coolant. If the car will be stored in a non-climate controlled facility, you need to make sure it's prepared for the potential of freezing weather (not sure how cold it gets in your region). Test your coolant, make sure it's up to the task.
- Rodent control. It's not a bad idea to stuff some foam or thick rags in the tailpipes to keep mice out. Sometimes they like to make a home in the muffler.
I think that should cover it.
For a 9 month term I'd do the following to prep the car:
- Stabil in the gas. A proper doseage would keep fuel fresh for well over 9 months. Some places only let you keep about 1/4 tank of fuel, but if they don't care I'd make sure the tank is full (helps prevent moisture from developing).
- Remove the battery. I don't remove mine for storage, but mine is a situation where I have access to the car on a daily basis so I hook up a trickle charger every 3-4 weeks to keep it fresh.
- Interior mositure control. I don't know how damp (or controlled) the climate is where you plan to store the car, but I'd suggest something in the interior to prevent stale and/or mold based odors from developing during storage. I use a product called "Damp-Rid", they make a tub that fits perfectly in the center console cup holder of a 4th gen F-body. These tubs aren't very big so they need to be drained and refilled every so often, but since you won't be able to do that I'd recommend getting the larger sized tub and placing it on the floorboard (you could do a second small one on the center console as well).
- Tires. Modern radials won't develop a permanent flat spot in just 9 months (unless maybe it's a super-soft competition type tire). Any flat spotting will go away within a few miles of driving. However, to minimize this effect, you can air the tires up to their max rated PSI prior to storing the car. This is what I do, it works great. Whatever you do, DON'T set the car on blocks and allow the suspension to hang. This is not good for the shocks, they should not be fully extended for 9 months at a time.
- Coolant. If the car will be stored in a non-climate controlled facility, you need to make sure it's prepared for the potential of freezing weather (not sure how cold it gets in your region). Test your coolant, make sure it's up to the task.
- Rodent control. It's not a bad idea to stuff some foam or thick rags in the tailpipes to keep mice out. Sometimes they like to make a home in the muffler.
I think that should cover it.
The other thing is, I found a few climate controlled storage places specifically for vehicles... $225/mo. Does this seem about right or is that steep?
Last edited by Adam2001WS6; 04-18-2010 at 04:05 PM.
04-18-2010, 09:52 PM
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I should probably drive my cars more. I am too familiar with storing them. 
You can buy these at Home Depot (that's where I get them). They only sell two sizes there that I am aware of, and the smaller one fits in the cup holder perfectly. Then I buy the refills to keep them maintained.
You don't have to worry about that happening, it's not possibile. There is a tray inside the container that holds the absorbing material, then lets it drain into the bottom of the container as it becomes liquid. The liquid-holding area is about twice as big as the tray, and even if you let all the material turn to liquid and drain into the bottom before draining, it still won't overflow (I know because I've done this before).
Seems pretty high to me, but we are in totally different areas of the country so I really can't say what's normal for your region.
You don't have to worry about that happening, it's not possibile. There is a tray inside the container that holds the absorbing material, then lets it drain into the bottom of the container as it becomes liquid. The liquid-holding area is about twice as big as the tray, and even if you let all the material turn to liquid and drain into the bottom before draining, it still won't overflow (I know because I've done this before).
Seems pretty high to me, but we are in totally different areas of the country so I really can't say what's normal for your region.
04-19-2010, 02:28 AM
#19
Trick ive learned from storing my jet ski this past winter inside a shed by a wood line with a ton of mice. Throw moth ***** under and around the car and it will keep mice and bugs away. Mine doesnt have a spot on it but there are a few nests in the rafters from the past winter. The jet ski has the pump area which would be perfect to build a nest and it doesnt have anything in it.
Drier sheets I ehard work also but the moth ***** really suprised me and wal mart has ones that dont smell like a**
Drier sheets I ehard work also but the moth ***** really suprised me and wal mart has ones that dont smell like a**
04-19-2010, 06:07 PM
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Trick ive learned from storing my jet ski this past winter inside a shed by a wood line with a ton of mice. Throw moth ***** under and around the car and it will keep mice and bugs away. Mine doesnt have a spot on it but there are a few nests in the rafters from the past winter. The jet ski has the pump area which would be perfect to build a nest and it doesnt have anything in it.
Drier sheets I ehard work also but the moth ***** really suprised me and wal mart has ones that dont smell like a**
Drier sheets I ehard work also but the moth ***** really suprised me and wal mart has ones that dont smell like a**