Rod Knock, Repair or Run Away?
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Rod Knock, Repair or Run Away?
So I've had my 2000 Z28 (hardtop, auto) 2 years. It's reached 127,000 miles (bought used with 110K) and has some pretty serious engine wear.
A rod started knocking recently. I brought it to a shop since I can't tell the difference between all those similar engine noises. They've told me the rod bearings are D. E. A. D. dead. I changed the oil enough, it just got old and beat up. Replacing the bearings would buy a bit of time, but apparently it would be short with a worn and grooved crankshaft. Maybe enough that my trade-in didn't arrive on a tow truck.
I'm left with a decision of a remanufactured engine or sell and start over with something with less mileage. I say remanufactured since I have neither the know-how or the space (I live in a condo with no garage) to do a rebuild myself.
I'd LOVE a fresh rebuilt LS1. But what's an awesome, new, oil retaining, high compression engine worth with an auto transmission with 127,000 miles on it? Is it time to find that low mileage t-top manual I couldn't afford the first time around? Or would that just be buying into the same worn out engine problem again?
Who has run into this problem before? Or how about anybody with some insight?
Thanks
A rod started knocking recently. I brought it to a shop since I can't tell the difference between all those similar engine noises. They've told me the rod bearings are D. E. A. D. dead. I changed the oil enough, it just got old and beat up. Replacing the bearings would buy a bit of time, but apparently it would be short with a worn and grooved crankshaft. Maybe enough that my trade-in didn't arrive on a tow truck.
I'm left with a decision of a remanufactured engine or sell and start over with something with less mileage. I say remanufactured since I have neither the know-how or the space (I live in a condo with no garage) to do a rebuild myself.
I'd LOVE a fresh rebuilt LS1. But what's an awesome, new, oil retaining, high compression engine worth with an auto transmission with 127,000 miles on it? Is it time to find that low mileage t-top manual I couldn't afford the first time around? Or would that just be buying into the same worn out engine problem again?
Who has run into this problem before? Or how about anybody with some insight?
Thanks
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Thanks for the help guys. Here's what I've done. I'm getting new rod and main bearings put in the engine since that's not too expensive from where I already am. I don't know how long they'll last with a crank that needs machining, but we'll see. They might last a while. Tell y'all the truth, I don't know how far out of spec the crank is. Car was running great before it started knocking, so maybe not too much.
I'm going to keep an eye out for a good deal on a car with a manual transmission. And with the weather so nice right now I can be sold on paying more for t-tops or something. I have more money now than when I first needed a car, and the current Camaro isn't dead, so I can wait out a cool deal. My last car shopping experience had me borrowing cars to check out the other cars.
I think maybe the guy that owned the car before me did the same bearing repair. I don't think I ever ran it hard enough or without oil to wear down the crank. He might have slapped new bearings on, drove it a bit, and sold it to me. If that's true and these new bearings get the same time to failure, that gives me 20K miles or more. And that's not bad if I'm driving it ~6K a year...
I think I'll be switching to thicker oil and crossing my fingers.
I'm going to keep an eye out for a good deal on a car with a manual transmission. And with the weather so nice right now I can be sold on paying more for t-tops or something. I have more money now than when I first needed a car, and the current Camaro isn't dead, so I can wait out a cool deal. My last car shopping experience had me borrowing cars to check out the other cars.
I think maybe the guy that owned the car before me did the same bearing repair. I don't think I ever ran it hard enough or without oil to wear down the crank. He might have slapped new bearings on, drove it a bit, and sold it to me. If that's true and these new bearings get the same time to failure, that gives me 20K miles or more. And that's not bad if I'm driving it ~6K a year...
I think I'll be switching to thicker oil and crossing my fingers.
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#11
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You're either going to waste time/money or screw someone over who buys your car next if you just put new bearings in. You can't put new bearings in a motor without at least polishing the crank but in your case it should be ground down and resized to properly fix it since it actually spun a rod bearing more than likely. I knew a friend who did that on his GM 2.4L in his Grand AM and it lasted 4 days and started knocking again......
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Yeah, they pulled the oil pan off with the engine still in the car. So I've already paid most the labor in replacing bearings.
My understanding is that the engine hasn't ever experienced any spun bearings, and none this time around for sure. They've just worn enough to knock (and immediately went to the shop). The question of what to do would, it seems, have been simpler, in quite a bad way, if any had spun.
Ouch on the story of knock returning after 4 days! Am I being too optimistic thinking my situation is not at all similar to that one? Could my expected bearing wear go all the way to exceed or repeat the 20K miles I've put on the engine (meaning is it possible I bought it like this and I'm repeating a cycle)?
My understanding is that the engine hasn't ever experienced any spun bearings, and none this time around for sure. They've just worn enough to knock (and immediately went to the shop). The question of what to do would, it seems, have been simpler, in quite a bad way, if any had spun.
Ouch on the story of knock returning after 4 days! Am I being too optimistic thinking my situation is not at all similar to that one? Could my expected bearing wear go all the way to exceed or repeat the 20K miles I've put on the engine (meaning is it possible I bought it like this and I'm repeating a cycle)?
#17
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Yeah, I was just assuming it spun. But, at the very least you should get the crank polished if you are just putting new bearings in even if none spun. If one spun, I would definitely do it right and get the crank ground down with new resized bearings. Don't just slap new bearings in there. The shop should know that though. I don't want to believe they would just put new bearings in without doing anything to the crank or rods.
#18
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I will also agree with forging that thing. A fresh shortblock, not the OEM motor. Transplant everything and call it a day. That way you won't have to worry about it for a long long time. Plus if you want to really push that motor in the future, you won't have that worry. You can get a decent forged 347 for even cheaper these days.
If you are going to just get it repaired though, 100% on getting ARP rod bolts installed atleast. Might as well fella.
If you are going to just get it repaired though, 100% on getting ARP rod bolts installed atleast. Might as well fella.
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Agreed ^^^^ crank should be replaced or worked on to save this motor from faliure! Fixing half of a problem will only save you money now but in time 2days or 2 years or whatever it will need to be repaired. Question will always be not if it will break but when if you don't do it right the first time.... Trust me it's happened to my cousins cobra and he was not happy when the bill came in!