Turrry

The car has an SLP style lid and to the best of my knowledge is bone stock other than that. Low mileage, convertible.

I know this has been asked tons, I'm just trying to figure out what might be acheivable with a budget between $1200-$1400 (with a little wiggle room of course).

I've been looking at lowering the car (since it has more wheel gap than a ford ranger...) and I could QUICKLY eat that amount up in a suspension package (Strano, etc). OR I could simply lower the car correctly and still have some left over for fun parts.

On the go-fast side, I would like to keep the stock cat back if possible and get LTs with a cutout (electronic?) but I've been told that will sound terrible without a cam to really get the sound that those bring. Then that brings a cam into the picture.

So..

1. If you had my car, what would you do?
2. Can a cam/exhaust setup be had/installed for this kind of money?
3. If you went ONLY suspension, what would you choose (remember at least some cost for the post-intstall stuff)
4. Tell me I'm an idiot for modding a 24k mile SS vert.

Thanks,
-Terry

Quik Sand

iTrader: (6)

You can do some Pacesetter LT's, ORY, cutout, and lower it.

You will want to do some LCA's and Panhard in there as well.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

That budget will get you a full exhaust... LT's, Y-pipe and catback. -OR- you could go a little different/cheaper route with TSP duals. You could get headers/duals for around $800-$900 and have some left over for a FTRA setup and some suspension stuff.

I would do the exhaust personally. It's a nice pickup in power that you can feel and the sound of the car really makes it more enjoyable to drive for me personally. But you could get a Koni/Strano setup for that price as well.

98ZEMT

iTrader: (5)

Well, I did a catback first then a lid and LS6 intake and after that put a cam and underdrive pulley in it. I know everyone on here will call me dumb for doing a cam before headers but I just really wanted a cam. Headers will be coming following the T56 swap next month. Personally, if I could do it again, I wouldn't have bothered with the intake. I'd have done Headers, ory, and my cam. IMO.

Turrry

Thanks for the input guys, keep em coming. I like to be able to see what others did and their next steps.

2000ssowner

Is the vert auto or stick?

Turrry

stick.

blackz28x07

I got my Hooker LTs and ORY for 550 brand new(that's if you stay with the stock catback, but then you'll also want a cutout). That would leave you with 650-850 which is possible to get a cam setup with that.

Turrry

That's pretty much my thought right now blackz28...that's pretty much what a good tuner was telling me locally. I would also like to scrap up a little more and lower it on some springs.

zaaronz

iTrader: (13)

On a nice 24k ss i wouldnt get into the motor. Just a few tastefull mods like exhaust and maybe the lowering springs like you mentioned. Thats just me tho-

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

Full exhaust first and formost

Tuffguy610

iTrader: (2)

I would have to side with zaaron. To answer your questions:

1. If that was my car. I might do a full exhaust over time, but definitely a catback exhaust for starters. I would do a suspension with strano springs, koni adjustables, and a panhard/rear lower control arm set. Other than that, I'd simply enjoy that car because its clean and optioned out. Trust me, once you start messing with things you will never get to run like it was when it was new.
2. A cam would be feasible, but I would save up more money later and do an intake with heads at the same time. You will need supporting mods for all of this (injectors, tune, springs, maybe a few other things I cant think of at the moment), so budget accordingly. Also, remember that the factory 10 bolt rear is a ticking time bomb especially once you start modding the engine.
3. If I went only suspension, I'd do Koni adjustables, strano springs, rear lower control arms and a panhard bar. Thats your best bang for the buck suspension wise. I wouldn't get into the aftermarket K-members and front components because you'll cause more problems than its worth all while spending way too much money. You might want to get some strano swaybars too if you want, but they'll run you an extra couple hundred dollars.
4. With regards to a low mileage fully optioned convertible, I'd do worthwhile mods to it with the intent to keep the integrity of the car. But in the end, its yours! Good luck and enjoy your ride.

sundaydriver

In order starting at 1k miles were, subframe connecters and lid. At 10k miles I installed full exhaust and shocks. I'm at 28k miles and yeah we all know more will be needed.

Ryan33187

iTrader: (16)

I'd say get subframe connectors first out of everything unless you want it to start twisting.

Turrry

I'd like to find a company that makes some decent ones. All the ones I've seen say NOT FOR USE ON CONVERTIBLE.

HeXetic

iTrader: (1)

I have the exact same car as you, 2001 Camaro SS convertible in black with the 6-speed stick, bought it less than a year ago with 56,000 km (34,000 miles) and I found three options for convertible SFCs:

Global West:
http://globalwest.net/1982-02_Camaro...lobal_West.htm

UMI weld-in
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=194

UMI bolt-in
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=193

I was leaning towards the Global West but the local F-body club guys recommended the UMI in the forum.

However, I also found a huge discussion here on ls1tech.com about whether SFCs were really necessary at all... gave me some doubts:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...pt-vs-3pt.html (Follow the conversation that Foxxtron and Sam Strano have with the others)

Then again, these are convertibles we have, and that discussion was more about the hardtops/T-tops. I think I might still want to get SFCs, but I plan on asking around the local F-Body club in my area at their first BBQ meet in a few weeks.

Bluepitbull

hello, if you are looking to do some good suspension mods what i did was buy the entire setup from FOUNDERS PERFORMANCE double adj lower control arms, on car adj panhard bar, lca relocation brackets with hardware, and strut tower brace all for under 350 shipped. Hell of a deal and very good product. I added a umi subframe connector 3-point and did all mods in about a day by myself in the parting lot of my apt. i got the umi sub for 288 from summit racing on sale with 30 summit bucks back, and at the moment i am looking at the eibach pro kit from summit you will get 20 summit bucks back when you buy it and use the 20 summit bucks for rear diff cover kit. 7.5in. the summit racing one and trickflow are the same thing no different and the same price. i am going with the proform perfect launch and buying a gasket from oreilys for 4 bucks to save money but same set up. And a new set of shocks but since yours has low miles just stay stock on the shocks for now. imo. I have the gmmg exhaust runs 700 and sounds like no other and produces great power and torque. You can make your own (kinda) cold air by cutting the lower box of your air box set up there are diagram on gm high performance and you can cut the baffels out or buy a fast or slp lid, if you have good hands and a dremel you can cut all the baffels out and sand the rest down. I went to home depot and bought a toilet rubber tube 6in diam for 8$ the throttle body to air lid instead of buying a slp or other for 60 bucks. I also set up a fast intake ported with a nick williams 90mm throttle body, but that is over kill if you are bone stock heads,cam,lifter,push rods ect. Just go ls6 used online if you can ebay what ever.I would suggest msd wires new plusgs a set of headers from ebay is one of the cheapest and most use the top of the line aluminum t304 just need a y pipe to fit it but matt from gmmg says the stock y does just fine. thats all i can think of for now i would just do a cam swap at a later time but depends on how much hp u want there are some damn good cams out there that will put u in the 400 hp range easy with a good tune, do research and that is without heads. ohhhh also frost performance is a good company to send your computer off to and have them do some stuff to it, adj fans so they turn on sooner bc they make these cars to run hotter for emissions, i could go on and on i have had a few of these cars and been doing research for the best setup and parts for 10yrs now. both drag racing and best handle. also these cars will handle better than a porsche once you start suspension mods trust me i live in cali and have smoked them on pala mtn and ortega hwy in orange county.

Bluepitbull

hello yea just go 3-point umi bolt in people say buy weld but if you put loc tite on the end of the thread they will not back out. also again what i would do is go to founders performance here in cali email them let them know joseph stacey refered you and get the entire setup for the rear of the car lower control arms, panhard bar,lower control arm relocation brackets and the strut tower brace. and you can do everything includes the sub frame in like 7hr by yourself out side or if you have a garage with help like 4 the only bitch on the car is the brackets there is a weird way they go over the hand brake brackets.

B0dyDr0pp3d

iTrader: (4)

^^^ I'm sure this dude has spent his $1200 in the past 2 years. Old and random thread to respond to.

AnotherBlackSS

4. Lol Im messing. Definitely cam and exhaust. If your gonna do some racing though, look into a 9" with some good gears.