top end build plan
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top end build plan
pretty much sold my 2nd car ive been tryin to get rid of for a while so i have some $$ to play around with, was lookin at gettin a head cam set up and i know theres a million cams and its hard to choose one for some one so im tryin to keep this a not "what cam should i get thread" as i can, but i was looking at getting the texas speed head and cam kit set they sell
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=203&catid=47
some things i was going to ask is it says it comes with push rods but im guessing it dosnt come with lifters? if not ill get them separate if so what should i get? should i get hydraulic roller lifters or solid? was lookin at getting Comp Cams "Comp R" Hydraulic Roller Lifters
do the heads come with rocker arms or no? and if not how needed are they if i can use my stock ones?, wanna get everything i need at once and not have to redo things
for the valve springs that come with these heads, the PRC Dual Valve Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers, i heard some were that dual springs wear out in like 20,000 miles or somethin? this is my DD so i need reliability with this build so if i need to get another set of springs with it let me know and what kind would you all recommend?
for the timing chains they list u can get with this kit are they a good idea to get them and if so which is best suited for a DD vehicle?
now for the cam part, im lookin at between 3 cams atm
MS3 - 237/242 .603/.609 112 LSA
torquer v2 - 232/234 .595/.598 112 LSA
228R - 228/228 .588/.588 112 LSA
this isnt an all out drag car but i do want an aggressive cam with a choppy idle but something not ridiculous, why i was looking at these 3, i know some cam spec things like how lift works and all but between these im not sure which would be best with this setup, still want a full range power band and not have all my hp past 4k rpm lol
right now my vehicle has a volant intake, and full exhaust, LT to 3in ORY to 3in borla out the back, as of gettin this kit im lookin at grabbin a ls6 intake some were and puttin that on when i do all this or get this all done, its a 6 speed tranny.
would i also need a clutch upgrade after i get this all done so i dont have it blow out on me or anything? right now have stock clutch
any suggestions towards what would be better or more worth it or anything let me know, i appreciate it.
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=203&catid=47
some things i was going to ask is it says it comes with push rods but im guessing it dosnt come with lifters? if not ill get them separate if so what should i get? should i get hydraulic roller lifters or solid? was lookin at getting Comp Cams "Comp R" Hydraulic Roller Lifters
do the heads come with rocker arms or no? and if not how needed are they if i can use my stock ones?, wanna get everything i need at once and not have to redo things
for the valve springs that come with these heads, the PRC Dual Valve Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers, i heard some were that dual springs wear out in like 20,000 miles or somethin? this is my DD so i need reliability with this build so if i need to get another set of springs with it let me know and what kind would you all recommend?
for the timing chains they list u can get with this kit are they a good idea to get them and if so which is best suited for a DD vehicle?
now for the cam part, im lookin at between 3 cams atm
MS3 - 237/242 .603/.609 112 LSA
torquer v2 - 232/234 .595/.598 112 LSA
228R - 228/228 .588/.588 112 LSA
this isnt an all out drag car but i do want an aggressive cam with a choppy idle but something not ridiculous, why i was looking at these 3, i know some cam spec things like how lift works and all but between these im not sure which would be best with this setup, still want a full range power band and not have all my hp past 4k rpm lol
right now my vehicle has a volant intake, and full exhaust, LT to 3in ORY to 3in borla out the back, as of gettin this kit im lookin at grabbin a ls6 intake some were and puttin that on when i do all this or get this all done, its a 6 speed tranny.
would i also need a clutch upgrade after i get this all done so i dont have it blow out on me or anything? right now have stock clutch
any suggestions towards what would be better or more worth it or anything let me know, i appreciate it.
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Wait ... thats a 5.3L head/cam set up? I thought our LS1's were 5.7L?
It's been awhile since I've been in the head and cam "talk" since my last 'camaro (LT1) back in 2005. Based on your cam selections, it would seem that the shorter duration, 228R, would be the least chopy at idle compared to the other 2. I don't know what the factory specs are but based on lift, duration and LSA ... it seems like it'll be a good street cam. Really, what you should do is try to match and cam and head, you'll get the most efficient HP that way.
If you want to keep full power, research your cams - that's where it controls the curve. You can have many different combos that produce the same effect but the curve is different - such as a long duration, short lift and 116 lobe separation vs a short duration, high lift and 110 lobe separation might produce same effect but the behavior is different. like I said - been a while. Do you research.
I think you'll need new rockers and if it were me, I'd get full roller rockers - less friction. You could increase the ratio, say stock is 1.6, you could go up a little and this increases your "lift". Just something to think about.
You should replace your springs when you get a more aggressive cam. I made that mistake on my LT1 and kept bending pushrods ...
A better clutch is probably a must.
I don't know about the rear end, hopefully someone else will chime in. If you had wide rear tires, it might be a problem.
It's been awhile since I've been in the head and cam "talk" since my last 'camaro (LT1) back in 2005. Based on your cam selections, it would seem that the shorter duration, 228R, would be the least chopy at idle compared to the other 2. I don't know what the factory specs are but based on lift, duration and LSA ... it seems like it'll be a good street cam. Really, what you should do is try to match and cam and head, you'll get the most efficient HP that way.
If you want to keep full power, research your cams - that's where it controls the curve. You can have many different combos that produce the same effect but the curve is different - such as a long duration, short lift and 116 lobe separation vs a short duration, high lift and 110 lobe separation might produce same effect but the behavior is different. like I said - been a while. Do you research.
I think you'll need new rockers and if it were me, I'd get full roller rockers - less friction. You could increase the ratio, say stock is 1.6, you could go up a little and this increases your "lift". Just something to think about.
You should replace your springs when you get a more aggressive cam. I made that mistake on my LT1 and kept bending pushrods ...
A better clutch is probably a must.
I don't know about the rear end, hopefully someone else will chime in. If you had wide rear tires, it might be a problem.
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they are 5.7L s but if use 5.3L heads u gain compression ratio, texas speed re worked the 5.3L heads to flow better and all and with the already better compression ratio there not bad especially for the price, and cams i did some researching on here and all and the sight, and read "reviews" of how people liked there ms3 and torquer v2 cams, and i know about matching heads with cams to have one make up for the others weak spots or lack of area, why i was asking for assistance between those 3 cams to which would suit this build better, i dont want full top end but i also dont know what these cams will let my engine rev to if it raises redline or not
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would u go with 111 LSA on that cam? heard u get some beter mid/low end with a lower LSA, and would u get the ls6 oil pump or one of the timing chains? and how hard is it to install a cam like the actual cam part, i can do the heads my self is the cam pretty much same or is there more of a chance to mess stuff up?
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ight ya was ether thinkin 111lsa or 112lsa so ill go ahead with 112lsa then, and ya i was reading and going over the head and cam swap on ls1howto last night and got me pretty hyped up about doing it, really good walk through to it seemed imo, i know i can do the heads my self the cam im slightly leery of but i think i can do it, my other thought to was do just heads but if im gunna be in there mine as well do cam but then it grows to also mine as well do under drive pully and ls6 oil pump and all lol, thinkin by next pay check ill go ahead and get this set up and begin the process if it all sounds good to yall, torquer v2 112lsa with the 5.3L 2.5 heads, O one thing this set up made me nervous about is the springs that come with it, i read some were that double valve springs only last like 20k miles is this true and or should i get another valve spring to put on these heads?!? thanks everyone for info and all
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O a couple other things that dont change my decision at all or nothing but just curious out of this build.
how bad will i need a tune after this install for drivabilty and mainly engine safty? and can a mail order tune be good enough to run around safely with? heard of PCMforless is good, is there better minus a dyno tune?
will this change my redline at all? if so whats the new safe redline
how bad will this kill my mpg ish? lol
and what type of power am i lookin at, like 400rwhp roughly?
again thanks guys
how bad will i need a tune after this install for drivabilty and mainly engine safty? and can a mail order tune be good enough to run around safely with? heard of PCMforless is good, is there better minus a dyno tune?
will this change my redline at all? if so whats the new safe redline
how bad will this kill my mpg ish? lol
and what type of power am i lookin at, like 400rwhp roughly?
again thanks guys
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You ask a lot of questions lol
Be very careful with your springs, I bought a set of springs off Summit and didn't know this particular kind of spring was notorious for breaking. Ended up destroying piston #3. My machine shop told me that particular model from that brand always breaks. I think if you can, at least, get with a machine shop - they should be able to point you in the right direction with your choice of springs. I'd make sure its a reputable shop and you're talking to the right person.
Don't settle of the torquer cam just because one person said to get it. No offense against anyone - I just believe the driver should do his research and make his own decision on what cam he would like based on technical data and feedback from this forum. Feedback might be biased but the technical data behind it should support some basic attributes to what kind of performance the cam provides.
You WILL need a tune. Now, I'm still new to the tuning but I don't think you will want the mail order. You'll want a dyno for optimum results. I do believe you can get by with a mail order tune but it would have to be a guy who has done a lot of setups similar to yours. I wont suggest any tuners, fearing they are not site sponsors. I'll just leave it at this - do more digging and research. It will pay off for best and reliable results.
I have no clue what you'll see rwhp wise. I would guess you'll be in the neighborhood of 400 if you get it tuned good. Heads and cam always open up a motor.
Your redline is based on the limits of the reciprocating components. I don't know how much the stock bottom end can take. You're going to see a lot more power throughout the range than you did before, and naturally, a lot will be in the later range.
You'll lose some city mpg most likely. I did when I did my 383 LT1, however, I got 32 mpg hwy off that motor. Once made 33.5 mpg.
This is the engineer in me saying "Do your research" ... and I take that to heart. Not trying to be a dick or anything, just saying it helps and pays off.
Good luck with your build, I'd like to see pics of your progress. I plan on doing a top end in a year or two as well. I have 41k miles on my original motor so it'll be awhile. I'd like to see results too.
BTW, didn't know we could run 5.3L heads on these cars - I never did my research on heads yet - you did. Thanks for sharing that. How much does it bump compression?
Be very careful with your springs, I bought a set of springs off Summit and didn't know this particular kind of spring was notorious for breaking. Ended up destroying piston #3. My machine shop told me that particular model from that brand always breaks. I think if you can, at least, get with a machine shop - they should be able to point you in the right direction with your choice of springs. I'd make sure its a reputable shop and you're talking to the right person.
Don't settle of the torquer cam just because one person said to get it. No offense against anyone - I just believe the driver should do his research and make his own decision on what cam he would like based on technical data and feedback from this forum. Feedback might be biased but the technical data behind it should support some basic attributes to what kind of performance the cam provides.
You WILL need a tune. Now, I'm still new to the tuning but I don't think you will want the mail order. You'll want a dyno for optimum results. I do believe you can get by with a mail order tune but it would have to be a guy who has done a lot of setups similar to yours. I wont suggest any tuners, fearing they are not site sponsors. I'll just leave it at this - do more digging and research. It will pay off for best and reliable results.
I have no clue what you'll see rwhp wise. I would guess you'll be in the neighborhood of 400 if you get it tuned good. Heads and cam always open up a motor.
Your redline is based on the limits of the reciprocating components. I don't know how much the stock bottom end can take. You're going to see a lot more power throughout the range than you did before, and naturally, a lot will be in the later range.
You'll lose some city mpg most likely. I did when I did my 383 LT1, however, I got 32 mpg hwy off that motor. Once made 33.5 mpg.
This is the engineer in me saying "Do your research" ... and I take that to heart. Not trying to be a dick or anything, just saying it helps and pays off.
Good luck with your build, I'd like to see pics of your progress. I plan on doing a top end in a year or two as well. I have 41k miles on my original motor so it'll be awhile. I'd like to see results too.
BTW, didn't know we could run 5.3L heads on these cars - I never did my research on heads yet - you did. Thanks for sharing that. How much does it bump compression?
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ya they bump it up to 10.75:1 CR, and stock for stock they dont flow as well and dont seem to be worth it if u just go to the junkyard and get them it seemed by numbers and what people have said, but these 2.5 heads flow a little better then the ls1 stocks and have the higher CR, and then with a cam to help it out it should be pretty good, ive been lookin at cams for almost the last week lol, been readin forums on here ls1lt1.com and all, alot of people say the torquer is a good aggresive street cam cause u still get some mid and low end and not all up top and with the low lsa i should see decent low end from what i under stand, tryin to stay under .600 lift also which is what made me choose this one, and favoring the exhaust more then the intake it should help with these heads too, not tryin to sound like a smartass or anything but ive been researchin the **** out of this stuff cause i knew close to nothin on head and cam specs till the last like 2 weeks lol, this was just to see what i could do better for this build, and ya im still lookin and readin around too so lol and im deff tryin to get pics when i do it if i do the cam myself, so u might see another thread in about a month or so about it lol and thanks though, im waiting for the shop i usually go to to open up they all took a week vaction lol, so i havnt been able to go to them yet but i should by monday