smitty504

iTrader: (1)

Hey all, I believe this is my first post on ls1tech but I look at the forum's all the time. I have owned my 02 Camaro SS M6 for about a year now and have put a lot of work into it (most all major mods in sig) except MT street radials. I'm getting ready to start planning my suspension set up and possibly a new clutch. I have read through the suspension sticky's but just want some ideas of what everyone is running and also a upgraded clutch. My car dyno'd at 435rwhp but i just feel like all the power isn't getting to the ground on the stock suspension. My car is a weekend car and not a DD, Street car so no carving set up or drag set up needed, I would like to lower it to get rid of the 4x4 stance. as for the clutch I am pretty much in the dark on that one and don't know a whole lot about the different clutches for my needs. If any one can help out I appreciate it, thanks guys!

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

I would suggest a Strano spring and Koni shock setup. I've heard nothing but good from it. Shocks are kinda pricey and the springs are also on back order (popular springs). I'm on a budget right now so I only have the springs with stock shocks. Still rides good.

As far as clutch. I really don't know. I personally am going with a Monster clutch 3 or 4. You should look into Stage 2.

Element

iTrader: (5)

Textralia OZ700 is a great clutch...little expensive, but worth it.

smitty504

iTrader: (1)

Just springs and shocks? any need for PHB, LCA's, sway bar?

whats the difference between the different stage clutches? again sorry for my unknown knowledge of the clutch system.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

i would get a monster stage 3 with a tick master cylinder. the different stages monster offers are for different power levels. stage 1 is the smoothest opperating clutch but it doesn't hold as much power as a stage 4, which is going to be a much stiffer clutch. as you probably already know, a stock 10 bolt isn't going to like to be abused with all that power if you upgrade the suspension/tire and are hooking up well. as far as suspension goes, i'd get LCA's, PHB, and TA, all adjustable. and subframe connectors. if you plan on getting a new rear-end, i'd call eric at midwest chassis. he's got a great deal on a very nice 9'' and if you buy it from him, you get discounts on all other suspension parts from him as well. and he makes very nice parts at good prices.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

I'd really start looking into getting a new rear with all that power, especially with the M6.

As far as suspension goes:

-Shocks make the biggest difference with ride. I'd really recommend Koni's if you're looking to lower and retain smooth street manners. Strano springs, as mentioned, are well known for combining performance (not important to you it seems), looks and ride quality. However, with the Koni shocks (the SA's) you can lower your car .75" up front and .5" in back with the heater hose mod on stock springs. If that's enough of a drop for you, you can maintain excellent ride quality (better than stock).

-For traction there are a few things to look into. The mentioned LCA's, PHB (especially if you lower, you want a single adjustable PHB), LCA relocation brackets (if your geometry is off, which might be the case if it's lowered), and a torque arm (with relocation bracket to get the load off of the transmission) should help improve your traction for the street and the strip. I would recommend going with UMI for the LCA's and PHB for their excellent roto-joint/poly combination bushings. The poly mounts to the body to keep sound/vibration out of the chassis and the roto-joint mounts to the rear to allow the suspension to properly articulate while making less noise than rod ends.

-Tires, if you include them in suspension, will make the biggest difference for traction. However, putting nice sticky tires on your 10 bolt is a recipe for disaster!

Hope this helps, if I didn't make anything clear just let me know!

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

I'd suggest a Monster Stage 3 clutch, $850 from Tick performance shipped with Slave if you hit the track a couple times a year. If your not a track guy and just screw around on the street on the weekends the LS7 clutch is only $500 shipped.

For suspension Strano or BMR springs. I'm not sure on a midgrade shock, I have Koni's but that might be to outrageous for you since you aren't building a canyon carver. I'd give Sam Strano a call and ask his recommendation. New shocks should stout up the car quite a bit so I wouldn't get sub frame connectors. Just Panhard Bar, and lower control arms to prevent wheel hop.

Instead of getting the $300 Tick master cylinder I'd start out with doing the drill mod on your stock master. Monster clutches made a thread before where they tested one of their clutches with a stock master and it performed great with a high horsepower car on the track.

The video on how to do the drill mod is in my Sig.

smitty504

iTrader: (1)

I knew the phrase " you need to look into a 9'' would come up. I do have MT street radials on the rear right now. I may contact Midwest Chasis and see what they recomend, their not too far away from where I live anyway.

I am thinking the LS7 clutch may be the way to go for me, I may take it to the track once, maybe twice just to see what it runs. Its more of a weekend warrior going from stop light to stop light looking at stangs in my rear view mirror

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

you should be alright with an ls7. i have 355rwhp and it's held up to many powershifts and slippage without missing a beat for over a year. i had it out about a month ago and still looked great. not that i have as much power as you, but just a reference. i'd probably still go with a monster just for piece of mind when doin some hard shifting/launching though.

smitty504

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everyone for the input/suggestions, Gonna go with monster stage 3 clutch for piece of mind and I am talking with Eric at Midwest Chassis to see what we can work out for the rear end/ suspension set up.

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

If you need a piece of mind, go with a diamond stage3. Do a search and don't just jump on the band wagon with the monster crew. If threads wouldn't get deleted you would know what I am talking about. Hit up Jason at TDP(texas Drivetrain Performance).
Talk to him and ask him what the differences are between his clutch and monster. Also his prices are lower and they can't be beat. He has a chromemoly flywheel that revs up quick!
Here is his info, he is a sponsor here.
Texas Drivetrain Performance
Fort Worth, TX 76177
Email: txdrivetrain@hotmail.com
Phone: 817-300-6840
Shop Website: http://www.texasdrivetrainperformance.com/t56.html T56 rebuilds starting at $540!
Clutch Website: www.diamondclutch.com Clutch kits starting at $369!

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

Here is more info....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-mem...k-sponsor.html

smitty504

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info dgcustomz, I will check into it. I have a while until suspension/clutch purchase and install. Car is getting tucked in for the winter. I wish I could still drive but a combination or broken neck in a neck brace and winter around the corner I won't have a chance to drive it until spring.