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38050 miles and....

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Old 02-13-2004, 07:39 PM   #1
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Default 38050 miles and....

My service engine light just came on


Three dyas ago, I had the oil, transmission fluid and rear diff fluid changed out.

Is this a dummy light for a tune up or something broken possibly?


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Old 02-13-2004, 07:43 PM   #2
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go to Autozone. They'll check it for free. But I wouldn't buy any expensive parts without researching here first. These guys are great!
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Old 02-13-2004, 07:56 PM   #3
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There are literally hundreds of things that can set off the SES light and you really have no way of knowing what it is. So DO NOT GUESS. Buy yourself an OBDII code reader (great tool to have anyway) or follow tnnntj's advice and have the code read somewhere. Once you know the code then post it up and we can try and trouble shoot it.
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Old 02-13-2004, 08:35 PM   #4
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ok, thank you very much for the info. Headed to autozone right now.
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:36 PM   #5
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Went to autozone and the gentleman said they do not do the diagnostics anymore. (being sued or something). Then I asked how much the OBDII would cost me, he said "whats that"?

Went to kragen and bought one because I left Autozone frustrated. Code PO420 Is what the code reader gave me. "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Thresheshold (Bank 1).
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:43 PM   #6
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that's a weird one... Maybe it means you need long tubes and no cats
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Old 02-13-2004, 10:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haru
Went to autozone and the gentleman said they do not do the diagnostics anymore. (being sued or something). Then I asked how much the OBDII would cost me, he said "whats that"?

Went to kragen and bought one because I left Autozone frustrated. Code PO420 Is what the code reader gave me. "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Thresheshold (Bank 1).
Probably useless info but FWIW. I got a code once, took it to dealership (b4 I knew about Autozone) and they said it was the air-pump (into the exhaust) which supposedly keeps it cleaner somehow. The part was $240 so I just ignored it. I almost never get it anymore not even once since I started modding. Like I said probably useless
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Old 02-14-2004, 01:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMNSPD
that's a weird one... Maybe it means you need long tubes and no cats
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Old 02-14-2004, 10:52 AM   #9
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I would like to have no cats and do the longtubes. Here in California it would get me in trouble with the law. If there are any other ideas, please let me know
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Old 02-14-2004, 11:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haru
I would like to have no cats and do the longtubes. Here in California it would get me in trouble with the law. If there are any other ideas, please let me know
i just did a search on that error code (yes, im that bored ), and found out that a few people got that code because their 02 sensor was going bad (the one after the cat). i guess that could be the culprit. hope this helps, good luck!
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Old 02-14-2004, 12:16 PM   #11
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Is there an "easy" way to test the sensor after the cat?


Thanks for your help, I have been camping this sight for hours now I will give it a shot.
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Old 02-14-2004, 12:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haru
Is there an "easy" way to test the sensor after the cat?


Thanks for your help, I have been camping this sight for hours now I will give it a shot.
i think if you pulled the sensor out you'd be able to tell that it didn't look right. I'm no expert by any means, but i'd just crawl under there and take a look.
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Old 02-14-2004, 01:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMNSPD
i think if you pulled the sensor out you'd be able to tell that it didn't look right. I'm no expert by any means, but i'd just crawl under there and take a look.
Not only that, but o2 sensors are pretty cheap anyway, and fairly easy to replace.
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Old 02-14-2004, 02:16 PM   #14
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and if you don't know.........bank 1 is the driver's side
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Old 02-14-2004, 03:29 PM   #15
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Yes, likely a bad O2 sensor. Check to make sure there are no exhaust leaks around the convertor area and there is no damage to the sensors or wire pigtails (e.g. burnt due to contact with exhaust, etc). Check to make sure the connectors are plugged in. You'll have one O2 forward of the cat and one behind. If all of the above checks out, I'd pick up a replacement O2 sensor and try that.

If you have access to Autotap or similar diagnostic software you may be able to run an O2 sensor test - I've never done it myself though.

*Note that I'm assuming you have the stock exhaust manifolds/cats. If you're using headers or have otherwise modified/relocated your cats, then I'd start there.
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Old 02-14-2004, 05:18 PM   #16
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Or, just buy a pair of O2 sims to get rid of it and make sure it doesn't come back.
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Old 02-14-2004, 06:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Or, just buy a pair of O2 sims to get rid of it and make sure it doesn't come back.
if i'm not mistaken, you'd still have to plug the simms into the o2 sensor itself, and if the o2 sensor itself is the problem, then plugging a simulator into it will not solve the problem.
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffluck
if i'm not mistaken, you'd still have to plug the simms into the o2 sensor itself, and if the o2 sensor itself is the problem, then plugging a simulator into it will not solve the problem.
you dont plug them into the sensor, you unplug the sensor and plug them into the harness
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Old 02-14-2004, 11:46 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donate52
you dont plug them into the sensor, you unplug the sensor and plug them into the harness
ah, thanks. i guess i was mistaken
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:43 AM   #20
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Picked up the sensor today, will hopefully be installing tomorrow. After install, do I erase the code with the OBDII and hope the light doesn't return? Or Do I undo the battery cable for fifteen minutes like I have read and hope the light doesn't come on?

Only one they had was a Bosch.
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:43 AM
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