Crispy

iTrader: (6)

In addition to what was mentioned above included in the WS6 package is a less restrictive exhaust. Combine that with the ram air intake and you get an advertised 25 additional hp.

thedetroitkid

plus a suspension package with the ws6 badge. They are nice cars, ive laid rubber down in my mommas when she left the keys around . I wouldnt buy one though, if i needed 25 horse id throw a happygas bottle on my camaro

Crispy

iTrader: (6)

Oh definetly, you dont buy a WS6 for the extra power or handling unless you plan on keeping it stock, at least thats the way i see it. A few bolt ons and you'll see those 25 horses to the at least.

Charlie1419k

So who makes some good lookin rims for these things? What's the best way to get the rims flush with the fender wells? What's the widest I can go? I want to build mine more for handling than drag so some nice wide wheels and tires are a must. My Dad and I are into road racing a lot and we go to the track as often as we can. He has a seriously built 350Z and I want to keep up with him. He is running about 375-400 rwhp but only weighs around 2900 lbs. So I figure around 450 rwhp out of a nicely built WS6 should do it. Thanks again for all the help guys!!

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

I love how everyone loves the ws6 package so much and 98% of people don't even know what the "package" is...

So much wrong (but unfortunately common ) information in this thread...

Charlie1419k

This should quell some of the debate...
http://www.ehow.com/facts_7765082_ws...-trans-am.html
http://www.ehow.com/list_7644602_pon...fications.html

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

http://www.ws6.com/faq/4_1.htm#ch4_1k
http://www.transamworld.com/2002-fir...ifications.php

Charlie1419k

Good link...that about covers it lol. Now how about my questions a few posts back?

Ghostintheshell

Look for some standard things...

1.) pop hood, check coolant dipstick in the resevoir.

2.) make sure fuel gauge works (the guy who sold me mine told me it worked, and when i researched HIS posts here on ls1tech i saw he had the broken gauge problem, and did not fix it).

3.) Examine engine block in all the spots you can see. Looks for any suspicious leaks / sludging, or cracks in the block.

4.) ask for receipts for any work he claims has been done. Some people simply might not keep them - but an owner who does might be taking better car of the vehicle - not a deal breaker by any stretch, but good to ask for.

Kev SS

iTrader: (5)

As far as miles are considered think of it like this.

If you buy a already modded car miles shouldnt matter if the vaulve covers has come off in my opinion. If you want a bone stock car I would try to find one for less than 100k miles.

I bought my 01 ws6 for 4k and the guy payed to have the hood painted...it has 173k miles on it and still ran a 8.7 on the 1/8th miles kicking sidways out of first, spinning and the tracks sucks and it was very cold out.

this is what I payed 4k for .





And another thing when you find one if you don't feel the car 100% walk away and don't be afraid to walk away, there will always be another.

JD_AMG

Obviously a matter of taste so check out the wheel section. If you have a high budget Fikse, CCW, and HRE are pretty popular.

How "flush" are you talking? Like that lame "hellaflush/tire stretch" trend? Getting these cars too low kills the handling because you have no suspension travel, a 1.2" drop is pretty common and used widely by competitive handling setups.

You can fit 17x11" (17/35/315) wide both front and rear with a little modification. Wider than that you might need to minitub.

Browse the suspension section, lots of good info there. Look into Sam @ stranoparts.com. He has multiple national SCCA wins in his Z28, he knows a thing or two about setting these cars up.

2900lbs? Is it gutted?

Charlie1419k

By "flush" I meant just getting some good meats under there to fill out the wheel wells a bit more than stock. I'm not into whatever it is you just mentioned lol. Trust me, I'm not trying to slam this thing at all...I understand the need for suspension travel but I hate having too much of a wheel well gap (pet peeve). Thanks for the size info. Would I be able to run 18's at all? I'll check into the suspension section and definately check out Sam. Thanks for the info!! Yes, the Z is gutted lol.

JD_AMG

11" (315) will definitely do it:


You certainly can run 18s, not sure how wide you can go with them though. Nice 350Z BTW, that will be a handful to keep up with at 2900lbs...

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

on a dynojet youll see those numbers easy with a nice cam on an M6. with an auto on a mustang dyno youll need a pretty aggressive setup to get those numbers.

wicked383lt1

This what I found...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3Qzx...e_gdata_player

Charlie1419k

Yeah my dad's Z is one hell of a machine, that's for sure. I am supposed to be getting it fairly soon (hopefully). JD AMG, that is a good lookin car!! I'll bet it's a ball to auto-X!! I was lookin in the wheels and tires section and I have decided to go for the gold right off the bat and get the CCW Classics. It'll take a while but they're worth it!!! So with what I've learned so far, here is what I've decided I want to do to the car once I actually get one. Cold air intake that mates up with the stock hood scoops, long tube ceramic headers, true duals (H or X pipe, not sure yet...gotta research more), heads and cam (matched properly with the engine and proposed usage), LS6 intake (if it doesn't already have one), ported and polished TB (or a bigger one depending on if I go with a bigger intake not sure exactly yet), dyno tune, suspension kit http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2858, 9 inch rear end shortened 3 inches per side (to fit the CCW Classics with the nice dish 18x11 rear), 4:11 gears, and a good performance clutch. What do ya think? I know it's going to cost an arm and a leg (or two) to do but it will be a long process. One I think will be fun and very rewarding!! Thanks again for all your input and help guys!

JD_AMG

Not my car, its a member on here.

Careful with exhaust setups, you may compromise ground clearance, and suspension clearance. If you are serious about road racing this car you probably want to look into a Fays2 Watts link, and that will limit your exhaust choices if you want to run it over the rear axle.
As I hope you know, suspension/brakes/tires (and driver mod) will do WAY WAY more for the track than power. Focus on suspension/brakes/tires as a priority in modding.

You haven't searched nearly enough, that suspension kit is mediocre at best, and really lacking in important areas (shocks).
If you want a "bolt in" kit like that look no further than this:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=90&ModelID=7
If you want to hope to be competitive you need at least konis, nothing less (those tokico's might as well be stock replacements, you'd be better off with better shocks and less suspension work at that rate), good springs, and balanced swaybars (35mm/22mm for example are balanced). - this is a proven setup and has won multiple national champions, BMR setups have won nothing (and generally try to copy others, while claiming thiers is somehow the "best" even though they keep changing things). You don't need relocation brackets, you don't need a shock tower brace, and SFC's are questionable, but won't hurt you. And like I said above look into a Watts Link.
Whoa, where did you read you need to shorten 6" total to fit 18x11s? You may not need to shorten it at all, and think about what that will do to your handling, its going to shorted your track, you don't want that. MANY guys who RR run their stock 10 bolt and simply get a better diff. What kills these rear ends are launching hard(and getting traction) and/or wheel hop, not just high power. Consider weight as well, it will be unsprung weight so its that much worse.

Charlie1419k

Lots of great info there JD. Thanks for the help. I'm obviously still new to this and can use all the help I can get lol. I was just going by what someone else did to fit the deep dish rear wheels with the rear end. My car isn't going to be a strictly road race car so it doesn't have to be a serious build but what I do get done I want it to be correct. If I don't have to swap the rear end then that just saves me money lol. I know many of the guys here are drag racers only so that's mostly the info I have gotten. I thank you for all your help and I hope to talk more with you in the future about set ups and what not. I of course know that suspension/brakes/tires do more for me on a road course than power but along with those I want to be able to keep up with the old man. I am going to need some good power to hang with him lol.

JD_AMG

No problem, I hate seeing people getting steered into the wrong direction with these cars. Don't want to see guys get discouraged because they can't compete because their setup is backwards, and then sell the car thinking its not worth it.
Was it the black T/A with deep dish black CCW classics and polished lip (huge lip)?
If thats the same car it certainly is gorgeous, but im pretty sure he had it setup for drag, hence the shortened the rear end to usually fit large drag radials. Also gotta watch out to get a good differential if you go with a different rear end, most are made for drag and are locker style (terrible understeer).
Thats good, my car is more of a street car than anything else (its full weight, nothing stripped and arguably more comfortable than stock thanks to the great shock dampening).
Yep, start slow and work your way up, if you end up needing a new rear then look into it.

Yep, gotta be careful who to really listen to on setting things up. There are also quite a few sponsors on here that will try and setup people with drag stuff and tell them they will be happy with handling...
Absolutely, don't be afraid to ask or start other threads if you don't understand something after searching. And keep in mind that Sam Strano is here to help as well - one of the things I love about buying from him is he is strait forward, and will talk you out of a part if you don't need it (or if it will hurt what you are going for), never push things on you and will explain more than you could want to know.

No kidding, that should be a force to be recon with.

Charlie1419k

Yeah that's the car I was looking at. Gorgeous car!!!! So instead of changing out the whole rear end, what would be a better option or my purposes? Keep in mind I will take it to the strip once in a while as well (it's cheaper to run there than at a road race course lol) Maybe a different diff with higher spline count axle shafts? I'm fairly familiar with axles and diffs since I'm pretty heavily into Jeeps as well but I don't know what the proper set up is for THESE cars lol. I'll definately get in touch with Sam Stranos when the time comes to start ordering parts. Thanks for the tip! So I guess now it's just down to actually finding the right car. Should I steer away from cars that already have some things done to them? I know in the Jeep world, we prefer to do things ourselves. That way we know what's in it and that it was done right. Thanks again!