New to the ls1 cars... Few questions.....
08-17-2011, 07:06 PM
#1
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New to the ls1 cars... Few questions..... Okay i own a 1999 chevrolet camaro z28 67k ..... Ls1, automatic... Mostly stock slp catback, eibach lowering springs, k&n filter, throttle body by pass........
I owned mustangs cobras my whole life so i know nothing about these cars......... My chevy friends got me into the ls1 cars.... Yea i know...... You guys hate ford.....lol
well my questions are......
The gauge says the car has 67k miles.... Im not to sure about that..... Is there a way to tell if that is the orginal motor? Or what year the motor is?
And when driving the car hard when it shifts into second gear it get bad wheel hop out the passenger rear wheel...... What causes this? Ive change the rear shocks and tourque arm bushings......
And when sitting in traffic or running the car hard on a hot day the temp gauge will climb rapidly but as soon as you drive it gose down to 210....... By the way water pump, thermostat, and coolant is new......
Thanks
I owned mustangs cobras my whole life so i know nothing about these cars......... My chevy friends got me into the ls1 cars.... Yea i know...... You guys hate ford.....lol
well my questions are......
The gauge says the car has 67k miles.... Im not to sure about that..... Is there a way to tell if that is the orginal motor? Or what year the motor is?
And when driving the car hard when it shifts into second gear it get bad wheel hop out the passenger rear wheel...... What causes this? Ive change the rear shocks and tourque arm bushings......
And when sitting in traffic or running the car hard on a hot day the temp gauge will climb rapidly but as soon as you drive it gose down to 210....... By the way water pump, thermostat, and coolant is new......
Thanks
08-17-2011, 07:21 PM
#2
sometimes a hard shift is fine. mine does it intermittantly so i dont worry about it. the wheel hop is probably from the lower control arms either replace them or get the relocation brackets from a sponsor like UMI, BMR ect.. are you sure the fans are on for the temp gauge problem? and the engine is a hard one to do, you might have to search for vin identification or something (i dont know much on that part) unless the guy switched out the gauge cluster with a lower mileage one, it should be correct
08-17-2011, 07:45 PM
#3
sounds like the previous owner had some fun haha 
nah but seriously, with those problems.. inwhich i don't think they are.. is nothing to be concerned about. Like this guy said, make sure ur fans are on ? I got a 160 tstat and reprogrammed fans and i never get past 180 .. so if it climbs , especially after hard runs, jus check to see if ur fans or working properly
with the wheel hop, what he mentioned above should help dissolve that issue
nah but seriously, with those problems.. inwhich i don't think they are.. is nothing to be concerned about. Like this guy said, make sure ur fans are on ? I got a 160 tstat and reprogrammed fans and i never get past 180 .. so if it climbs , especially after hard runs, jus check to see if ur fans or working properly
with the wheel hop, what he mentioned above should help dissolve that issue
08-18-2011, 07:44 AM
#5
The gauge says the car has 67k miles.... Im not to sure about that..... Is there a way to tell if that is the orginal motor? Or what year the motor is?
- Unless you pull the motor to inspect, the best you can do is run compression and leak down test as well as take it to a dyno and verify how much the motor is making. A hurt motor will generally rear it's ugly head on a dyno or at the track. There are generally no "numbers" to verify if that block was matched to that car at the factory.
And when driving the car hard when it shifts into second gear it get bad wheel hop out the passenger rear wheel...... What causes this? Ive change the rear shocks and tourque arm bushings......
- Many factors, such as previous mods done such as a converter, shift kit, or lack of mods such as upgraded Lower Control arms. You running a real street tire or drag radial?? I have had cars in the part wheel hopping an auto but that was COLD (see November) pavement and worn street tires.
And when sitting in traffic or running the car hard on a hot day the temp gauge will climb rapidly but as soon as you drive it gose down to 210....... By the way water pump, thermostat, and coolant is new......
- I would re bleed the systems as best as you can. LS1's do not have a bleeder persay which can be very ANNOYING. So jack the front end up on stands, support properly. The heater core can be air bound and by getting the radiator neck up higher will allow for all bound air to get out. Also take note when the fans kick on (have someone in the car monitoring the temp or a scan tool to see when the engine calls for it.
If you have a good bleed with a good water/coolant mix (using water wetter as well) and for some reason you are still having the issue. Look at replacing the radiator. You may have pin hole leaks. I ran into that issue back in the day. Having the system sealed is the only way to get that boiling point up. Also may look into a radiator cap if its worn out but a replacement radiator will have that.
** you did not mention what year car, mods, or driveline, so any other info is always helpful.
- Unless you pull the motor to inspect, the best you can do is run compression and leak down test as well as take it to a dyno and verify how much the motor is making. A hurt motor will generally rear it's ugly head on a dyno or at the track. There are generally no "numbers" to verify if that block was matched to that car at the factory.
And when driving the car hard when it shifts into second gear it get bad wheel hop out the passenger rear wheel...... What causes this? Ive change the rear shocks and tourque arm bushings......
- Many factors, such as previous mods done such as a converter, shift kit, or lack of mods such as upgraded Lower Control arms. You running a real street tire or drag radial?? I have had cars in the part wheel hopping an auto but that was COLD (see November) pavement and worn street tires.
And when sitting in traffic or running the car hard on a hot day the temp gauge will climb rapidly but as soon as you drive it gose down to 210....... By the way water pump, thermostat, and coolant is new......
- I would re bleed the systems as best as you can. LS1's do not have a bleeder persay which can be very ANNOYING. So jack the front end up on stands, support properly. The heater core can be air bound and by getting the radiator neck up higher will allow for all bound air to get out. Also take note when the fans kick on (have someone in the car monitoring the temp or a scan tool to see when the engine calls for it.
If you have a good bleed with a good water/coolant mix (using water wetter as well) and for some reason you are still having the issue. Look at replacing the radiator. You may have pin hole leaks. I ran into that issue back in the day. Having the system sealed is the only way to get that boiling point up. Also may look into a radiator cap if its worn out but a replacement radiator will have that.
** you did not mention what year car, mods, or driveline, so any other info is always helpful.
09-02-2011, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by VORTECHGT504
Okay i own a 1999 chevrolet camaro z28 67k ..... Ls1, automatic... Mostly stock slp catback, eibach lowering springs, k&n filter, throttle body by pass........
Check the LCAs, pressure test the cooling system, and make sure the fans come on at the appropriate times.
