Budget Build
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Budget Build
What is the cheapest way to make good power? Like I am wanting mid-high 400's n/a and would perfer no spray. So whats a good budget way to get there?
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Short version: You can do it on a low budget at first. Soon enough, you'll be spending a lot more to keep it together because you didn't do it right.
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Ok cool, thanks for the info and a good starting point. So exhaust, suspension/sfc work, then back end, follow up with head/cam combo, then beefy tranny and call it a day?
Also if I just put in different gears and like a detroit locker would that help the 10 bolt? or is it the housing itself?
Also if I just put in different gears and like a detroit locker would that help the 10 bolt? or is it the housing itself?
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Heads are too expensive, just get headers, dual exhaust, a mild n/a cam 224 - 234 int / 228 - 238 exh .600 lift depending on how wild u want the car to get and then get a small 125 shot and ofcourse a good tuner. n/a will = about 400rwhp and spray will take you over 500rwhp. Dont by scared of spray it should be in list for a budget car.
Thats just the engine though. You will need a good torque converter stay under 4000 and atleast 3.42 gears and tires and get a strong rearend girdle and you will be ok as long as you dont spray out of the hole. If your a manual then you have to break down and get a 9 inch just no way around it if you plan on drag racing and actually using sticky tires a lot.
Thats just the engine though. You will need a good torque converter stay under 4000 and atleast 3.42 gears and tires and get a strong rearend girdle and you will be ok as long as you dont spray out of the hole. If your a manual then you have to break down and get a 9 inch just no way around it if you plan on drag racing and actually using sticky tires a lot.
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#8
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If you could be fine for high 300's low 400's then skip the heads and save yourself 1500-2500.
Are you wanting to drag race this, or autocross, or just drive around on the street. manual or automatic?
This is what you need to do...in order. You can shop around for prices, I'm not going to look them all up.
1. Lid
2. Ported TB
3. LS6 intake if your car is pre-01
4. Underdrive pulley
5. Headers, ORY/Cat-back, or duals will take place of ORY/CB, poly motor mounts
6. New clutch to support 450rwtq, poly trans mount, possible trans rebuild depending on it's condition
7. Cam (tell thunder racing your goals, they will tell you what cam), lifters, valve springs, retainers, hardened pushrods, oil pump, timing chain
That should get you your 400rwhp. After that I'd go with:
8. 12-bolt/9 inch, 8.8 inch, etc... something better than the 10-bolt
9. Full suspension components starting with subframe connectors.
10. set of decent heads (sell your stock ones with upgraded valvetrain to offset cost)
11. Fast 90/90 intake (sell ls6/ported TB to offset costs)
If you plan on drag racing or autocross those suspension components need to move up before the cam install...maybe not all of them but at least the subframe connectors
Are you wanting to drag race this, or autocross, or just drive around on the street. manual or automatic?
This is what you need to do...in order. You can shop around for prices, I'm not going to look them all up.
1. Lid
2. Ported TB
3. LS6 intake if your car is pre-01
4. Underdrive pulley
5. Headers, ORY/Cat-back, or duals will take place of ORY/CB, poly motor mounts
6. New clutch to support 450rwtq, poly trans mount, possible trans rebuild depending on it's condition
7. Cam (tell thunder racing your goals, they will tell you what cam), lifters, valve springs, retainers, hardened pushrods, oil pump, timing chain
That should get you your 400rwhp. After that I'd go with:
8. 12-bolt/9 inch, 8.8 inch, etc... something better than the 10-bolt
9. Full suspension components starting with subframe connectors.
10. set of decent heads (sell your stock ones with upgraded valvetrain to offset cost)
11. Fast 90/90 intake (sell ls6/ported TB to offset costs)
If you plan on drag racing or autocross those suspension components need to move up before the cam install...maybe not all of them but at least the subframe connectors
#10
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Here is what I would do. In order if you are stock.
1) Lid (any brand, any filter) - ~$100
2) Ported TB - $100
3) LS6 intake if you do not already have one - $300
4) Coated Pacesetter headers (best, cheapest headers IMO) Race style and dump all emmisions **** (!AIR/!EGR if applicable) - $380
5) Custom y-pipe (use a flowmaster merge dual 3" into 4") - $100-200 depending on labor charge to fab custom Y (you can also look at TSP's y-pipe, it looks solid, they sell a pacesetter headers and their y-pipe combo for $480)
6) 4" cutout following the merge above, or 3" cutout if you use TSPs Y-pipe. - $200 if u want an e-cutout, less for manual
7) reducer from 4" to 3" into whatever cat-back doesnt even matter could be stock, but ill say Magnaflow - $500
8) Suspension. (LCA's, PHB, Subframes to start) - $500
9) Heads/cam package of your choosing. - $2000 at least... again ill say TSP has a package deal for about $2,000.
10) Tune - $500
I think with the mods above you are solid for minimally 400RWHP but it will all depend on the heads/cam that you pick. Obviously there are other things along the way that you might want like poly motor mounts, drag radials, short shifter (if stick), stall (must if auto), underdrive pulley, etc. etc.... but my list def covers the bulk to get you at least close to 450hp.
So for just a bit over $4,500 you got everything you need. This isnt counting labor or any little things like nuts/bolts/gaskets/etc. but still that is not that bad for the bulk of the stuff that you need. These may not be the best of parts, but you did say budget build. I dont think you can really beat what I have listed above without really sacrificing quality or buying stuff used.
1) Lid (any brand, any filter) - ~$100
2) Ported TB - $100
3) LS6 intake if you do not already have one - $300
4) Coated Pacesetter headers (best, cheapest headers IMO) Race style and dump all emmisions **** (!AIR/!EGR if applicable) - $380
5) Custom y-pipe (use a flowmaster merge dual 3" into 4") - $100-200 depending on labor charge to fab custom Y (you can also look at TSP's y-pipe, it looks solid, they sell a pacesetter headers and their y-pipe combo for $480)
6) 4" cutout following the merge above, or 3" cutout if you use TSPs Y-pipe. - $200 if u want an e-cutout, less for manual
7) reducer from 4" to 3" into whatever cat-back doesnt even matter could be stock, but ill say Magnaflow - $500
8) Suspension. (LCA's, PHB, Subframes to start) - $500
9) Heads/cam package of your choosing. - $2000 at least... again ill say TSP has a package deal for about $2,000.
10) Tune - $500
I think with the mods above you are solid for minimally 400RWHP but it will all depend on the heads/cam that you pick. Obviously there are other things along the way that you might want like poly motor mounts, drag radials, short shifter (if stick), stall (must if auto), underdrive pulley, etc. etc.... but my list def covers the bulk to get you at least close to 450hp.
So for just a bit over $4,500 you got everything you need. This isnt counting labor or any little things like nuts/bolts/gaskets/etc. but still that is not that bad for the bulk of the stuff that you need. These may not be the best of parts, but you did say budget build. I dont think you can really beat what I have listed above without really sacrificing quality or buying stuff used.
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First off thanks for all the advise, and second its a 02 auto that I will drag race but also drive to and from work. Also lemons you are like a fist full of knowledge... Meaning you know alot but you dont tip toe around answers your blunt and tell them what they need and not to listen to others bs
#12
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First off thanks for all the advise, and second its a 02 auto that I will drag race but also drive to and from work. Also lemons you are like a fist full of knowledge... Meaning you know alot but you dont tip toe around answers your blunt and tell them what they need and not to listen to others bs
I try my hardest not to hop on "bang wagons", I call it how I see it. Common sense and a little research goes a long way.
As for your goal... You are an auto, completely forget about hitting a Rwhp number, it means nothing. I make a measly 370Rwhp.. Being full weight 2200+DA and barely spinning I ran the times in sig. Now, making around 390Rwhp in 1500+DA or so, I will be shooting for around a 7.1@96mph or so 1.4X short time.
The dyno is a device to tune with, nothing more. Autos show their power at the track.
On top of that.. Hitting 450Rwhp with an auto, you have your work set up for you. There certainly won't be budget anything.
Nice heads- 2K$+
FAST intake
nice custom grind cam
1 7/8 long tubes
nice merge or true duals with a free flowing muffler/bullet
etc..
450Rwhp in an auto is a very stout number. It is doable but I would not make it a goal while on a budget.
Here is something I can help you with, and stick to your budget. What kind of ET/mph are you looking to hit?
#14
some trick flow 220 heads and a big EPS cam.also consider some TSP heads .get a fast 90/92 mm intake with a matching throttle body.or get some used 243/799 and a ls6 intake .get a cam from Patrick-G to get 425 +hp.
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I've had it put a lot of ways but that is a first... As well as probably being the most accurate. We are all grown men here, no reason to worry about hurting a feeling or two.
I try my hardest not to hop on "bang wagons", I call it how I see it. Common sense and a little research goes a long way.
As for your goal... You are an auto, completely forget about hitting a Rwhp number, it means nothing. I make a measly 370Rwhp.. Being full weight 2200+DA and barely spinning I ran the times in sig. Now, making around 390Rwhp in 1500+DA or so, I will be shooting for around a 7.1@96mph or so 1.4X short time.
The dyno is a device to tune with, nothing more. Autos show their power at the track.
On top of that.. Hitting 450Rwhp with an auto, you have your work set up for you. There certainly won't be budget anything.
Nice heads- 2K$+
FAST intake
nice custom grind cam
1 7/8 long tubes
nice merge or true duals with a free flowing muffler/bullet
etc..
450Rwhp in an auto is a very stout number. It is doable but I would not make it a goal while on a budget.
Here is something I can help you with, and stick to your budget. What kind of ET/mph are you looking to hit?
I try my hardest not to hop on "bang wagons", I call it how I see it. Common sense and a little research goes a long way.
As for your goal... You are an auto, completely forget about hitting a Rwhp number, it means nothing. I make a measly 370Rwhp.. Being full weight 2200+DA and barely spinning I ran the times in sig. Now, making around 390Rwhp in 1500+DA or so, I will be shooting for around a 7.1@96mph or so 1.4X short time.
The dyno is a device to tune with, nothing more. Autos show their power at the track.
On top of that.. Hitting 450Rwhp with an auto, you have your work set up for you. There certainly won't be budget anything.
Nice heads- 2K$+
FAST intake
nice custom grind cam
1 7/8 long tubes
nice merge or true duals with a free flowing muffler/bullet
etc..
450Rwhp in an auto is a very stout number. It is doable but I would not make it a goal while on a budget.
Here is something I can help you with, and stick to your budget. What kind of ET/mph are you looking to hit?
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So I would like low 12's high 11's as cheap and fast as I can. I know thats not do able on a low budget just where I wanna be. and what do you think of stage 2.5 ls6 heads?[/QUOTE]
You goal is very attainable on a budget. Most bolt on auto ls1 cars run low 12's. Look at me i have most bolt ons that are on the market and i run 12.1's at 111 with a crappy 1.7 60'. All you need to do for high 11's is: lid, headers, cat back, you have the ls6 intake already, around a 3600 stall and tranny cooler, in the ball park of of a 228 cam, sticky tires, a few suspenion components and a good tune and your high 11's. both of those cars will never have a chance
You goal is very attainable on a budget. Most bolt on auto ls1 cars run low 12's. Look at me i have most bolt ons that are on the market and i run 12.1's at 111 with a crappy 1.7 60'. All you need to do for high 11's is: lid, headers, cat back, you have the ls6 intake already, around a 3600 stall and tranny cooler, in the ball park of of a 228 cam, sticky tires, a few suspenion components and a good tune and your high 11's. both of those cars will never have a chance
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What about a shift kit? like a beefed up valve body? would that help at all? and what about a hammer shifter? My sister as a 81 z28 with a b&m quick silver shifter and that thing is nuts and makes shifting so much easier. almost like just putting it in drive. also how do yall race at the track? trac on or off, and do you drop it down to one and shift up? Im new to a fast auto I usually race manuals so this auto tranny thing is blowing my mind
#20
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Try a search on "free mods", if u don't have luck send me a PM..those and some sticky tires will get u just into the 12's..so thats a start..suspension can b key..but $$ adds up quick, so will motor mods as already mentioned..weight removal if ur handy will also help.
Stall Converter and supporting mods (big tranny cooler and shift kit, Id go with a TransGo HD2) is a must for getting closer to low 12's..or better
Stall Converter and supporting mods (big tranny cooler and shift kit, Id go with a TransGo HD2) is a must for getting closer to low 12's..or better