12,000 to spend.....
10-23-2011, 09:39 PM
#1
12,000 to spend..... sorry for the long post looking for advice tho
so coming up here in a month or two i will have about 11,000 to maybe 13,000 for mods. heres the basics, car is a 01 camaro ss A4 with 135,000 miles and is a dd and a 99% street car, will see the track maybe once just to see time. current mods are lid, 85mm tb, bbk ssi intake, bbk long tubes with ORY and 3'' cutout, and a corsa catback. suspension mods are LCA's, panhard rod, front and rear sway bars, subframe connectors, strut tower brace, and torque arm. basically i want to be at or (preferably above) 500rwhp. no weight reduction. no nitrous. no serious hit to gas mpg and driveability. so that leaves turbo or s/c. i want a turbo or s/c build that is reliable and i wont have to worry about my rear breaking or something in the motor breaking. no weak points basically. so what are all the parts i need? i thought i had it figured myself but i dont know enough. will i need forged everything? crank, pistons, wristpins, etc? what about heads or valvetrain work? anything need to be done there? moser 9'' but what kind is recomended? ( when i went to purchase one the options for how you want it overwhelmed me, spline size, etc.) what else is needed for the moser install and do i even need a 9 or will the cheaper 12 do? transmission need anything? and as far as the major power adder the turbo or s/c what is needed? i know what to get and where for s/c build (thanks to bob at brutespeed) but any other turbo builds besides josh at kytp or the sts? not looking for someone to find all this stuff for me trust me. ill do that i just know what i will need to get.
so coming up here in a month or two i will have about 11,000 to maybe 13,000 for mods. heres the basics, car is a 01 camaro ss A4 with 135,000 miles and is a dd and a 99% street car, will see the track maybe once just to see time. current mods are lid, 85mm tb, bbk ssi intake, bbk long tubes with ORY and 3'' cutout, and a corsa catback. suspension mods are LCA's, panhard rod, front and rear sway bars, subframe connectors, strut tower brace, and torque arm. basically i want to be at or (preferably above) 500rwhp. no weight reduction. no nitrous. no serious hit to gas mpg and driveability. so that leaves turbo or s/c. i want a turbo or s/c build that is reliable and i wont have to worry about my rear breaking or something in the motor breaking. no weak points basically. so what are all the parts i need? i thought i had it figured myself but i dont know enough. will i need forged everything? crank, pistons, wristpins, etc? what about heads or valvetrain work? anything need to be done there? moser 9'' but what kind is recomended? ( when i went to purchase one the options for how you want it overwhelmed me, spline size, etc.) what else is needed for the moser install and do i even need a 9 or will the cheaper 12 do? transmission need anything? and as far as the major power adder the turbo or s/c what is needed? i know what to get and where for s/c build (thanks to bob at brutespeed) but any other turbo builds besides josh at kytp or the sts? not looking for someone to find all this stuff for me trust me. ill do that i just know what i will need to get.
10-23-2011, 10:06 PM
#3
He said it's an A4.
If you've still got the stock rear, ditch it. I'd upgrade that first to support the power. You'd probably be fine with the 12 for around 500hp (not versed well but from what I've read).
You've got a good amount of cash to spend. Good luck.
If you've still got the stock rear, ditch it. I'd upgrade that first to support the power. You'd probably be fine with the 12 for around 500hp (not versed well but from what I've read).
You've got a good amount of cash to spend. Good luck.
10-23-2011, 10:21 PM
#4
yep missed it, (a4) any how ^^what he said, get that outta the way, then u can spend $$ on beefing up ur trans about 1k (still risky) or go with a RPM, FLT, Performabuilt transmission about 2500bucks there, and their recommended converters, 6-800 bucks there and then mod motor, cam (any were new 3-$500), supporting valvetrain, lifters, pushrods, lifter trays, (rocker arm upgrades<not always necassary), heads either port ur 241 castings (ex:TEA $600 ), or go with AFR, PRC, TEA etc, all the fixins, Springs/retainers $1600-2K..Hi PO oil pump UD pulley (3-$400)..gasket kit ($200 avg)..labor $$
Or sell ur good runnin LS1 and use the $ and get a LS7 or LS3 crate motor and spend dow on that.the s/c is really $$, turbo lil less, .Then suspension, especially if u run @ the track alot, if not then dont worry about it...Good Luck!..
Or sell ur good runnin LS1 and use the $ and get a LS7 or LS3 crate motor and spend dow on that.the s/c is really $$, turbo lil less, .Then suspension, especially if u run @ the track alot, if not then dont worry about it...Good Luck!..
Last edited by z28241; 10-23-2011 at 10:29 PM.
10-23-2011, 10:29 PM
#5
U should really take time on this site to look at others are doing and see progress/loss as far as their builds, u say u only go 2 track maybe once, fine, u want dyno #'s for ur own personal reasons..thats cool..okay put $ into s/c, turbo ..search this site..
10-23-2011, 11:00 PM
#7
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...induction.html
That is probable the best post your going to get to answer you question in the above link. And also for any technical questions I would post up in the F/I section of the forum, as more people who have been there and done it will probable be in that section opposed to this one.
That is probable the best post your going to get to answer you question in the above link. And also for any technical questions I would post up in the F/I section of the forum, as more people who have been there and done it will probable be in that section opposed to this one.
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10-23-2011, 11:18 PM
#8
Send out some PM's. Most people will be glad to tell you exactly what they have done to their car, and what it cost them to get there.
I would start with a good short block and do a H/C swap and install a maggie. That could give you very civilized 500 rwhp.
10-23-2011, 11:22 PM
#9
Hmm ill ask around. Reason for the money is just bought a house and we had leftover money from the loan. no I'm not that rich where I have 12k hanging around lol. Just so many options I'm confused. Forgot to mention yes its a street car but it will be raced on weekends. Just not track. Seeing from some searches that stock internals are good for 500 HP as long as there is a really good tune? Anyone confirm?
10-23-2011, 11:30 PM
#10
Hmm ill ask around. Reason for the money is just bought a house and we had leftover money from the loan. no I'm not that rich where I have 12k hanging around lol. Just so many options I'm confused. Forgot to mention yes its a street car but it will be raced on weekends. Just not track. Seeing from some searches that stock internals are good for 500 HP as long as there is a really good tune? Anyone confirm?
You could also just put some of that money in the bank and do a good heads & cam job and come up with 500 horses very easily. I don't know so much about the decreased engine life on a bigger cam, but it wouldn't hurt to ask around. And like I said earlier, a magnacharger is an excellent choice for reliability and street manners.
Many H/C only cars still get great fuel economy. Mine gets 30 mpg in 6th gear on the highway.
10-24-2011, 07:45 AM
#11
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Get a new trans, it wont last with your new set up. Get a fairly big stall (3600-4000). That alone will be around 3.5k with install. Another worry would be rear, looking at a few grand for that. So your looking at nearly half your budget gone with just upgrades. If you just go straight to forced induction without adressing other things, you will be kicking yourself when you have no money to fix your car. I would upgrade the rear and trans, then go with a nice H/C set up. You can easily be around 480+ to the wheels while keeping the car streetable and fun to drive.
10-24-2011, 08:39 AM
#14
IMO skip the rear. You are an auto and won't be drag racing with slicks/drag radials. You shouldn't break it despite the fact that it's a weak point in these cars.
500rwhp is kind of the breaking point on these cars from being able to spend a relatively small amount of money to spending a lot of money. If you want over 500rwhp I would build the engine. Stock crank w/ upgraded rods/pistons. I'd get a small supercharger friendly cam, some decent heads and a d1sc procharger. You'll have to get the supporting mods (mainly a better transmission and a small stall since it will be street driven 99% of the time) like injectors, fuel pump, tune, etc...
500rwhp is kind of the breaking point on these cars from being able to spend a relatively small amount of money to spending a lot of money. If you want over 500rwhp I would build the engine. Stock crank w/ upgraded rods/pistons. I'd get a small supercharger friendly cam, some decent heads and a d1sc procharger. You'll have to get the supporting mods (mainly a better transmission and a small stall since it will be street driven 99% of the time) like injectors, fuel pump, tune, etc...
10-24-2011, 10:20 AM
#15
IMO skip the rear. You are an auto and won't be drag racing with slicks/drag radials. You shouldn't break it despite the fact that it's a weak point in these cars.
500rwhp is kind of the breaking point on these cars from being able to spend a relatively small amount of money to spending a lot of money. If you want over 500rwhp I would build the engine. Stock crank w/ upgraded rods/pistons. I'd get a small supercharger friendly cam, some decent heads and a d1sc procharger. You'll have to get the supporting mods (mainly a better transmission and a small stall since it will be street driven 99% of the time) like injectors, fuel pump, tune, etc...
500rwhp is kind of the breaking point on these cars from being able to spend a relatively small amount of money to spending a lot of money. If you want over 500rwhp I would build the engine. Stock crank w/ upgraded rods/pistons. I'd get a small supercharger friendly cam, some decent heads and a d1sc procharger. You'll have to get the supporting mods (mainly a better transmission and a small stall since it will be street driven 99% of the time) like injectors, fuel pump, tune, etc...
10-24-2011, 06:44 PM
#18
also consider a tubular K member for more room for turbo set up.go to the boost section to see what you like.you will need to dump some money into a trans and converter.I believe Bob at Brute Speed sells super chargers.
10-24-2011, 07:34 PM
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Yeeeaaaa Navy!! Teesdale's the name! 99 Z28 with a crapy carbon fiber hood's the game! lol! FRCSE shore duty.... live off of San Jose Blvd right on the other side of the Buckman! 
10-24-2011, 07:36 PM
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